Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Or use one of the angle finder apps on your cell phone - they work well enough to set this angle too. 
Front wing - WOW
- Thread starter Indy Lonnie
- Start date
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
For anyone who wants to use the AoA adjustment scheme common to the APR-250, Voltex, Singular, NLR, etc when making your own pylons, save and print the image titled (link) "nonse wang under mount" at 164% scale to get a 1:1 paper template for the hole pattern. I didn't determine the scale factor necessary for the rear pylons because I was only interested in the hole pattern, which is the same regardless of where the airfoil will be installed.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
Attached for when / if it inevitably leaves the the internet
Attachments
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
Bump
The front splitter has changed a bit, for me. I had a buddy cut one out of 1/8” aluminum, but add sides bent up to 90* and bent the rear to 20*. This worked even better than just the flat alumilite, but flexed a little. Not enough for concern, but my buddy wanted to make one out of 1/4” aluminum, so I let him. We did tweak prototype #3 by cutting it out of 1/4” aluminum, kicking the back bend up from 20* to 45* and eliminated the cutout for the intercooler. I’m changing the ic layout, so that cutout is not needed for me.
This really seem to plant the front end. Driving around 50 you can see a solid heat line on the tires, then kick it up to 70ish and see the line move outward. the front just really seems stuck to the ground now.
I’m considering this done on my end.
The front splitter has changed a bit, for me. I had a buddy cut one out of 1/8” aluminum, but add sides bent up to 90* and bent the rear to 20*. This worked even better than just the flat alumilite, but flexed a little. Not enough for concern, but my buddy wanted to make one out of 1/4” aluminum, so I let him. We did tweak prototype #3 by cutting it out of 1/4” aluminum, kicking the back bend up from 20* to 45* and eliminated the cutout for the intercooler. I’m changing the ic layout, so that cutout is not needed for me.
This really seem to plant the front end. Driving around 50 you can see a solid heat line on the tires, then kick it up to 70ish and see the line move outward.
the front just really seems stuck to the ground now.I’m considering this done on my end.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
The Gurney flap at the back makes a world of difference to create positive pressure on the top of the splitter. The side lips help keep that pressure on the top surface - taller sides would increase this affect, but not significantly.
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
I wish I had the tools to build a front splitter. I’d love one of these or one of the ones you are designing Brian
Ross
Goblin Guru
Well, maybe you don't need the tools...
I'm building a tool to make a front wing, and will eventually need a CAD drawing of a wing that I want to make out of carbon fiber and/or fiberglass. So if anyone wants to share a designs of Goblin wings... maybe we could build a few wings. So far, I like Justin's wing. Maybe include the fenders into the front wing?
The tool is a CNC router that is designed to cut foam molds or plugs for fiberglass. Took about 6 months to design it, and probably will take another 6 months to build it, but it is coming along, slowly.
Today I managed to wire up and test a motor.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
Yep. Once the bends were added, you could feel it in the hood and cab.The Gurney flap at the back makes a world of difference to create positive pressure on the top of the splitter. The side lips help keep that pressure on the top surface - taller sides would increase this affect, but not significantly.
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Rttoys
Goblin Guru
When Brett came over to get a few things from me, I was showing him the weight difference between the 1/8” and 1/4“ ones. It’s a pretty big difference, but we agreed the extra weight would be beneficial to handling in the front.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
If I didn’t have someone that could do all this, I would cut it out of flat aluminum, then bolt on aluminum angle. Could easily be done at home.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
We are on the same wavelength lol. I built an MPCNC for exactly that - fiberglass moulds. Just got it working and carved a cursive lettering thing out of wood for someone. Foam and fiberglass next.
I might be able to help there. I have a hand brake and whatnot and this is also on my winter mod list.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Mount spacing is 18" when you order the nose wàng kit. I'm not sure why that was selected, but the ones with 16.5" spacing were builder wàngs. I used two pieces of 3/8" thick 2" x 3" aluminum angle 24" long as my front pylons, notching the flanges wherever necessary for coolant hose clearance; very easy install.
Those mounts look like the Exocet mounts that I have on my rear wàng, rather than the standard mount. This is a better solution in my opinion since it's an undermount setup and we have minimal ground clearance - like I had to hack up my standard mounts on my nose wàng to have clearance at lower AoA settings and wouldn't need to do that with the lower profile Exocet mounts. That said, if I were adding a nose wàng again, I would do a builder's wàng with swan neck mounts to maximize what little ground clearance I have; my front pylons occasionally scrape under hard braking and other driving scenarios.
Those mounts look like the Exocet mounts that I have on my rear wàng, rather than the standard mount. This is a better solution in my opinion since it's an undermount setup and we have minimal ground clearance - like I had to hack up my standard mounts on my nose wàng to have clearance at lower AoA settings and wouldn't need to do that with the lower profile Exocet mounts. That said, if I were adding a nose wàng again, I would do a builder's wàng with swan neck mounts to maximize what little ground clearance I have; my front pylons occasionally scrape under hard braking and other driving scenarios.
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Andy
Well-Known Member
Just getting back into modding my goblin, what was the finished dimensions you used for the splitter? I like this design and going to go with something like this.Bump
The front splitter has changed a bit, for me. I had a buddy cut one out of 1/8” aluminum, but add sides bent up to 90* and bent the rear to 20*. This worked even better than just the flat alumilite, but flexed a little. Not enough for concern, but my buddy wanted to make one out of 1/4” aluminum, so I let him. We did tweak prototype #3 by cutting it out of 1/4” aluminum, kicking the back bend up from 20* to 45* and eliminated the cutout for the intercooler. I’m changing the ic layout, so that cutout is not needed for me.
This really seem to plant the front end. Driving around 50 you can see a solid heat line on the tires, then kick it up to 70ish and see the line move outward.
I’m considering this done on my end.
View attachment 35748
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
Shoot me your email and I’ll send you the file.
Jmar1622
Well-Known Member
Think I could get it also? [email protected]
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
Sent