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Joebob

Goblin Guru
Is the top of the pedal assembly on top of the flange or below? I mistakenly had it above and had fitment problems.

36528

This is how it should be.

Joe
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I had an 2006 SS/SC donor also but didn’t have that problem. I’ll try to remember to take a look at mine to see if I notice anything different.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I checked and my pedal is about 1/4" from the bilkhead when fully depressed. It looks to be mounted just like yours.

36542
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Looking at this thread, your pedals don’t look right. Gotta figure out why.

 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Take a few pics from a little further back and multiple angles. Maybe someone will see something.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I have my footwell cover off this evening and it looks like I trimmed my bulkhead a little for the gas pedal. It also bottoms out on it but not before I get 100% on the pedal signal.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
the lip is on top of the floor instead of under the floor,
I thought the last picture in post #5 above looked odd but couldn't put my finger on it. That bulkhead is going to be slightly higher with it sitting on top of the floor panel - not sure how much, but it will definitely move the bulkhead higher and could be just enough to cause the issues experienced so far.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Bulkhead should already be pinned to the chassis, mine may have an1/8 inch or less flex at the point where the pedal hits.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I had an 2006 SS/SC donor also but didn’t have that problem. I’ll try to remember to take a look at mine to see if I notice anything different.
Samesies..... not issue with my pedal touching the bulkhead. Now my steering shaft was a different story.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
I too had these issues. I slightly bent the bulkhead panel forward to clear the gas pedal housing. I already had things powder coated of course and was annoyed with the idea of cutting for clearance if I didn't absolutely have to.

I also had the issue where my gas pedal bottomed out on the bulkhead panel. I didn't even realize this was occurring until I finally got into some tuning and realized I was never seeing more than 50-55% throttle.

For the life of me I can't recall at the moment exactly what all I did to remedy that one... The only thing I do recall doing is slotting the top hole of the pedal box assembly where it bolts to the support bar cantilevered out in front of the steering wheel.

The only thing I can figure is that somehow the welded angle/location of the mounting plate for the pedal box/booster assembly and support bar is off.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
My gas pedal hits the bulkhead at full throttle but I think it is close enough to the mechanical stop that it is not a drivability issue. Could the top mount tube have been bent down during shipping, powdercoat, or handling while rolling it around putting hoses and floor on? A bend down would rotate the pedal assembly into the bulkhead. Have you attached the lower bolts to the chassis plate and see if it is flat or not sitting square? Prior to purchase I read almost all the forum posts and while I knew of trimming around the steering was probable, no one posted about throttle trimming. These are jig welded and laser cut and was surprised that all the rivet holes line up so well. There has to be something else going on. It looks like you removed the throttle pedal for painting, is there a chance it was misassembled?

Joe
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
A bend down would rotate the pedal assembly into the bulkhead.
You helped spark my memory. In addition to trying to persuade it upward a bit, I ended up adding a spacer under the pedal box assembly on the top mount tube. This helped rotate it away from the bulkhead.

I know you're responding mainly to the OP here, but for myself I'm not sure if my frame was ever flipped after I received it.

I did everything on the car in the upright orientation. I have no way of knowing what all went on at the powder coater though...
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Depending on how the powder coater moved the chassis around, the mount tube could have been moved out of its original position. I only say this because I saw my powder coater bend my cluster mount tabs when lifting the chassis with his forklift. I'm not sure the mount tube would bend/move nearly as easily, but it's possible.

My only issues with my throttle pedal were lining up the pedal box mounting holes and tunnel interference. I had to fight with the pedal box a bit to get the holes lined up but no trimming was required. On my second or third test drive, I floored it and the pedal got hung up on a tunnel cap rivet. A little force on the pedal arm fixed that before using the 3D-printed pedal extension that moves it entirely away from that part of the tunnel.
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Depending on how the powder coater moved the chassis around, the mount tube could have been moved out of its original position. I only say this because I saw my powder coater bend my cluster mount tabs when lifting the chassis with his forklift. I'm not sure the mount tube would bend/move nearly as easily, but it's possible.

My only issues with my throttle pedal were lining up the pedal box mounting holes and tunnel interference. I had to fight with the pedal box a bit to get the holes lined up but no trimming was required. On my second or third test drive, I floored it and the pedal got hung up on a tunnel cap rivet. A little force on the pedal arm fixed that before using the 3D-printed pedal extension that moves it entirely away from that part of the tunnel.
Same here. I couldn't tighten the pedal box to the frame completely until everything was in place or it wouldn't line up. Until after the brake booster was in place and then I could tighten it all up. It worked out ok in the end though.
 
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