Information overload frame # 406

Gr8wheels

Member
This is a wonderful forum. Everything is here for the Goblin and more. My trouble is sorting it out so that my build is what I imagined. The Goblin I want when finished will be competitive in auto cross and street legal with a B+ fit and finish And 300+ H.P.
I have the following:

2007 Cobalt SS supercharged- to be picked up next week. Do all supercharged Cobalts have lowered final gears and limited slip?
If not how do I tell what’s in the gear train?
Long chassis #406 with full cage and entry door bars
5x114.3 bearing hubs
FX1seat package
finished wiring harness
button panel set
wide fenders
engine cover, side panels, footwell cover, hood
PC Windscreen extended height
Anodized shifter kit
Rear coil over kit
steering wheel kit

So, I’m about to send Kimberly the above list but if a few of you veterans could comment on the package vs. my imagined finished goal,
it would be quite helpful and thank you.
Pete
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Welcome to the family! Your selections look good. 300+ hp on a SC setup can be had, but some money needs to be put into the motor to achieve that.

Regarding the final drive, you’d want to check the codes in the trunk, usually left side on the bottom. G85 is the code for the limited slip diff on the SS models. Not all came with them. Another thing to check is the plate on top of the transmission. Should tell you the final drive ratio of the transmission.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Not all SS Cobalts have the limited slip... but a Quaife LSD can be installed afterwards for ~$1600 ish.
This tag should be under the carpet in the trunk of the Cobalt. G85 package will have the SS Recaro seats, and the transmission tag on the top of the transmission will say LSD on it.

31769
31765
31766


The regular transmission has a FZ tag
31768
 

PaulPerger

Well-Known Member
The sticker in the trunk r3drckt refers to looks like this... It shows (in code) every option that your car came with... the LSD transmission is notated by "G85". Google "GM RPM Codes" and you can find out what all of them mean.

31770
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
2007 Cobalt SS supercharged- to be picked up next week. Do all supercharged Cobalts have lowered final gears and limited slip? all SS/SC come with the 4.05 gear
If not how do I tell what’s in the gear train? as mentioned previously, if the trunk tag says G85, it should have an LSD, but looking at the tag on the trans is the best indicator of what's inside as far as gearing and diff without actually opening it up

wide fenders what size tires are you thinking?
 

Gr8wheels

Member
Thank you all, great response and direction. So what is the best way to get the SC engine to 300 or more dependable H.P.? I want to keep the super charger because I like the sound and instant response.
TIRES?.? I need direction here, I bought the 5 lug hubs as I read here that the tire and wheel availability was much greater. I also need direction on the front suspension as I’ve included the Goblin rear suspension upgrade in my order. So what’s the best approach? Taller tires and more suspension travel?
As you can see, I’m in the weeds here as there is so much to choose from.
Fortunately this forum has all the information and you guys have already found out what works and what doesn’t so I can’t express my appreciation enough for this resourse.
I wish there was a meet up around me so I could see some different approaches and introduce myself.
Again, thank you.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Whereabouts are you located?

From what I've read, getting in the 300-ish range with a supercharger needs a TVS 1320 with E85 and even then probably needs some top end work like porting and/or cams.

To keep stock-ish gearing and shift points, you're going to be looking for a tire in the 25-ish inch tall range. That would be like a 225/45R17 or 245/40R17. If you run taller tires you're going to end up pushing your shift points up to where you're shifting out of first at like 60 mph and out of 2nd at 80. Folks have run 315 width tires before but I'm one of the folks in the camp of running smaller, stickier tires that you can get heat into. If you're set on running the fenders, they're built for maximum 245 width tires.

I'm not sure where you're planning on running in autox or what your class rules would be, but that's got to be a factor in your tire selection. But I think a 245 200tw is fine for a street-driven autox tire.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
300 crank hp is easily obtained on the stock SC. It’s 300whp where you need the tvs. But again, you’ll need ported head, cams, NBS or deletes because you need the extra rpm to hit those numbers.
 

Gr8wheels

Member
Whereabouts are you located?

From what I've read, getting in the 300-ish range with a supercharger needs a TVS 1320 with E85 and even then probably needs some top end work like porting and/or cams.

To keep stock-ish gearing and shift points, you're going to be looking for a tire in the 25-ish inch tall range. That would be like a 225/45R17 or 245/40R17. If you run taller tires you're going to end up pushing your shift points up to where you're shifting out of first at like 60 mph and out of 2nd at 80. Folks have run 315 width tires before but I'm one of the folks in the camp of running smaller, stickier tires that you can get heat into. If you're set on running the fenders, they're built for maximum 245 width tires.

I'm not sure where you're planning on running in autox or what your class rules would be, but that's got to be a factor in your tire selection. But I think a 245 200tw is fine for a street-driven autox tire.
I’m in Nokomis, Florida which is about 17 miles south of Sarasota
 

Gr8wheels

Member
Build the car first and then worry about adding horsepower (unless you have experience with a 1600lb car).
Thanks, you’re right but I wanted to have you veterans take a look at my order and tell me if I need something more at this stage. I’d rather do it now and do it once than rebuild later. The engine, I’m told can be easily boosted with a smaller blower pulley and a chip.
 

PaulPerger

Well-Known Member
OK - The chassis —- powder coat or epoxy paint and primer.
I'm using Steel-It. Not that I wouldn't like to do a wild color, but I know that a year or two down the road I will want to modify it and if the frame is done using Steel-It I can decide to weld a new piece on and simply "re-paint" when I am done without destroying a powder coat job.
 
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