Introduction-From Alabama

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mbasaraba

Member
Good Morning!

Just joined the forum but have been watching videos and lurking for some time. I am located in north Alabama, have seen a few owners pretty close to me so that is exciting to see. My wife and I have been wanting a "Weekend Cruiser" for a while now. We used to ride but after I was rear ended while sitting still on my 2006 YZF 600R a couple of years ago I hung up my helmet for good. I figured someone gave me a "fair warning" since I was able to walk away from getting hit by a full size truck doing 50 MPH in the turn lane when he hit me. Had looked at other cars but no kits and when we seen this we are like that's it, decision made!

I own a small machine shop in my back yard shop. I was in the Aerospace and Medical R & D field for 24 years and was a teacher at a high school for Advanced Manufacturing for 2 before going buying my own CNC. I started making some parts for my 3D Printers a couple of years ago and when others seen what I was making they asked if I could make them some also and everything kind of exploded. If anyone here is into 3D Printing, especially with the Creality brand products, you might know who I am and/or my company PrinterMods .

Over a year ago I started itching all over my body. People might say, ok itching, no big deal, but imagine sitting naked in a room with nothing to cover with a 100,000 mosquitoes biting you 24/7 for over a year, that has been my life. I seen almost a dozen doctors and never got a diagnosis. Last dr I was seeing said "We have ruled out cancer but we will find the problem" and I was put through so many tests I have no idea the count. Finally I demanded a referral to Mayo Clinic in Jacksonville FL and in only 6 hours they found the issue, guess what, I got cancer, Large B Cell Lymphoma and a tumor the size of 3 hockey pucks in my chest, aint that a B! I had my first treatment 2 weeks ago today and while it has been up and down a bit I never slowed down in my shop or anything! Pfft, I got this!

I started looking at requirements/supplies etc and I want to order my kit but concerned with finding a donor first. I dont have a ton of storage/work space to be able to hold a donor while taking it apart plus a frame that I wont want to have in the elements until it is painted. I just got done building a 20 x 20 extension onto my shop for working on my car(s) but also has some of my company equipment in it. I figure I need to do the donor first, get it stripped down and then order a kit. (even though kits are 10-12 weeks out I have seen others searching for a long time for their donor).

While I would LOVE to have a SC/TC version I haven't seen much while looking around and not sure we "need" that much for what we want, no track or autocross etc, so thinking about just going NA. I have seen several around for under $1000 but not sure about the year/motor options I should be looking for to get the best results. I don't mind tearing down and rebuilding and adding better internals for a possible SC/TC upgrade in the future but maybe a NA isnt worth sticking in better components if it will never hold up anyways.

SO........... a couple of questions...

Any advice on if an NA can be upgraded/built or just hold out for a SC/TC version?

I would really prefer the automatic if possible to use with a later upgrade but not sure how well it can hold up to it. I been driving manual my whole life and as I get older, plus sitting in stop and go traffic sucks, I would love to have auto for ease and so the wife could drive. This possible with possible SC/TC upgrade in future?

This kind of goes with the previous question. Would it be better to get a SC/TC version kit and put an NA into it in the anticipation of upgrading so that I get the brackets etc to go with that? Maybe there isnt much difference in the kit, maybe someone can shed some light on that.

I have seen a few modifications I would like to do to the frame/chassis. Is there CAD available for the frame for pulling dimensional data from? (after kit purchase of course)

Lastly, if there is any custom machined parts people would like to see made please let me know! (brackets or adapter plates etc) I currently have 2 CNC mills and adding a 3rd next month, also saws, benders and formers, lasers etc. I dont have any lathe capabilities currently but plan on adding one in the future.

Again appreciate anyone that read all this and any advice offered! Excited to get started!

Best Regards!
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Where in North Alabama are you? You are welcome to come see my build in progress in the Ardmore area and take measurements. I'm probably about a month out from being finished.

ZZPerformance makes kits to add turbo to NA although you likely can't use all of the parts. 2.2/2.4L Turbo Kit | ZZPerformance
 
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OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
First, Welcome! Crazy the path life takes us sometimes, happy to hear you've found a root cause and working towards relief.

There are a ton of us who are into 3D printing here - you'll come to find that while we're geographically disperse we all have similar hobbies and interests. Here's a thread you may be able to contribute to - https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/custom-stl-files-for-3d-printed-goblin-parts.2174/. I have an artillery sidewinder x1 which is basically a CR10 knockoff.

There's a member on here that I believe built an automatic LNF HHR which may be right up your ally.

War Eagle!
 
M

mbasaraba

Member
OptimizePrime said:
First, Welcome! Crazy the path life takes us sometimes, happy to hear you've found a root cause and working towards relief.

There are a ton of us who are into 3D printing here - you'll come to find that while we're geographically disperse we all have similar hobbies and interests. Here's a thread you may be able to contribute to - https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/custom-stl-files-for-3d-printed-goblin-parts.2174/. I have an artillery sidewinder x1 which is basically a CR10 knockoff.

There's a member on here that I believe built an automatic LNF HHR which may be right up your ally.

War Eagle!
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I have an X1 also, fantastic machine (except that ribbon cable), what a nasty insult on the the machines to say knock off of a CR10! Lol. I will definitely check out the thread!

(Also not sure about that Slap Fighting Chicken remark at the end, did they win a game this year except for Vandy and a girls volley ball team??? Haha)

ROLL TIDE!!!!
 
M

mbasaraba

Member
OptimizePrime said:
We're doing our best okay?! lol
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To be totally honest I havent watched in years. We disconnected all TV services and havent turned on our TV in 6 years now! I admit there is nothing like being in Bryant Denny with 100,000 people screaming! I was there for the come back game with Cam Newton. Pay to play sure worked out for Auburn that day!
 
R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
If you're wanting to go automatic, then I'd suggest going NA and adding a turbo. The blocks themselves don't differ as far as I'm aware (beyond the gen 1 through 3 differences). It's the internals that would differ (forged rods and crank on the LSJ for instance), but can always be added to build up the NA engine. Under moderate boost though (5-8PSI) most NA engines will be fine as long as there's a good tune and the engine isn't beat on all the time. The trans should be fine with the increased power. You could always pull the motor and build it during the turbo install as well though. The engine tear down was straight forward for me and I purchased a Haynes manual to do the assembly with for torque references and sequences. Just remember they're aluminum components so they will damage easily with harder tools, utilize brass punches to break the seals on the oil pan, girdle, head, valve cover.
 
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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Not to mention the money saved buying an NA model vs a SC/TC model (their prices have sky rocketed it seems) can be used to buy the turbo kit and other forged parts (if you wanted to add those).
 
M

mbasaraba

Member
r3drckt said:
If you're wanting to go automatic, then I'd suggest going NA and adding a turbo. The blocks themselves don't differ as far as I'm aware (beyond the gen 1 through 3 differences). It's the internals that would differ (forged rods and crank on the LSJ for instance), but can always be added to build up the NA engine. Under moderate boost though (5-8PSI) most NA engines will be fine as long as there's a good tune and the engine isn't beat on all the time. The trans should be fine with the increased power. You could always pull the motor and build it during the turbo install as well though. The engine tear down was straight forward for me and I purchased a Haynes manual to do the assembly with for torque references and sequences. Just remember they're aluminum components so they will damage easily with harder tools, utilize brass punches to break the seals on the oil pan, girdle, head, valve cover.
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I found a donor 10 miles from me for $500, 2006 with a 2.2 with 140k miles, but the tranny is bad. Is this year engine a good candidate for all this?
 
R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
That's the L61 engine. It uses the same Lost-foam casting method used on the LSJ, but runs a 10.0 compression ratio (lsj uses 9.5CR, usually lower is better for boosted applications on pump gas). It'd work for sure, but I'd recommend upgrading the rods at least when you add the turbo. running 10.0CR will add more stress to the rods and I'd hate for that to punch a hole in your block. When pistons fail it usually doesn't cause catastrophic damage to the block. The crank should hold up fine.

The trans replacement will be the bigger issue. I'm not sure what the cost of a new/gently used replacement trans will cost you, but you can usually find slightly wrecked donors for the $1k mark if I'm not mistaken and you wouldn't need a new trans then.
 
M

mbasaraba

Member
r3drckt said:
That's the L61 engine. It uses the same Lost-foam casting method used on the LSJ, but runs a 10.0 compression ratio (lsj uses 9.5CR, usually lower is better for boosted applications on pump gas). It'd work for sure, but I'd recommend upgrading the rods at least when you add the turbo. running 10.0CR will add more stress to the rods and I'd hate for that to punch a hole in your block. When pistons fail it usually doesn't cause catastrophic damage to the block. The crank should hold up fine.

The trans replacement will be the bigger issue. I'm not sure what the cost of a new/gently used replacement trans will cost you, but you can usually find slightly wrecked donors for the $1k mark if I'm not mistaken and you wouldn't need a new trans then.
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Also found a guy with one that says it needs a "Computer" but not sure which he is talking about yet. Says the motor is brand new with only 3k miles, it is a 2005.
 
M

mbasaraba

Member
r3drckt said:
That's the L61 engine. It uses the same Lost-foam casting method used on the LSJ, but runs a 10.0 compression ratio (lsj uses 9.5CR, usually lower is better for boosted applications on pump gas). It'd work for sure, but I'd recommend upgrading the rods at least when you add the turbo. running 10.0CR will add more stress to the rods and I'd hate for that to punch a hole in your block. When pistons fail it usually doesn't cause catastrophic damage to the block. The crank should hold up fine.

The trans replacement will be the bigger issue. I'm not sure what the cost of a new/gently used replacement trans will cost you, but you can usually find slightly wrecked donors for the $1k mark if I'm not mistaken and you wouldn't need a new trans then.
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This is what he said about the computer when I asked....

My brothers are Machanic and. He hooked a his computer thing to it .some one tried to break into and it had something to do with the alarm system

So cant hear it run or test the tranny which is concerning
 
R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Ya that's a pass in my book. The security feature is usually associated with the key/ignition signal. While a relearn is possible, it wouldn't affect the computer itself. If his brothers are a mechanic, they'd know how to do this and he wouldn't be trying to sell it in this condition.
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Key is, be patient and find the right donor. LS donors are a dime a dozen. SC and TC cars are more rare, but if you're fine with a 2.2 LS donor, you can afford to wait and find a more ideal donor.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Yeah the NA Cobalts will show up continuously in Facebook marketplace with 140k for very little money. If you could confirm the motor is actually brand new it might be worth pursuing at $500. That would free you up a little on the condition/mileage of another donor.
 
95Blitz

95Blitz

Well-Known Member
Welcome from south Alabama.. Just took a quick look at your webpage that MDD for the CR-10 looks killer. I have been thinking about making my own direct drive but for your price sign me up.. I'll be ordering one soon.

But anyway, stay away from the 05-06 2.2 Cobalts as they can't be tuned with HPTuners.

Beat me to it...
 
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