Jacob's Ext Track Goblin - 09 SS Donor #394

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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Ended up taking the bolt out of the top of the steering column and separating the shaft to drop the subframe. No idea how that bolt got in there.

I've dropped the engine but have this one wire from the transmission to the dash it looks like. Do I just pull it out of the transmission? It is the one with the wire wrap on it.
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Hydraulic clutch line if I understand which one you are asking about. Some replaced the oem clip with a piece of wire. Remove the wire and it should pull loose. Brake fluid will leak out.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
There are 2 electrical connectors on the transmission, the speed sensor and the neutral switch, that need to be disconnected and labeled too.
 
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Desert Sasqwatch said:
There are 2 electrical connectors on the transmission, the speed sensor and the neutral switch, that need to be disconnected and labeled too.
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I didn't see any connectors to be disconnected for the engine drop. I did break the evap line even though the video clearly shows it. Derp. Hoping it's not needed since won't be doing emissions.

Used quick jacks to drop the engine onto a dolly then raise the car up. Worked great.
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Do I need this black box from the engine bay?
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Also do the SS have a fuel filter outside the fuel pump? I swear I'm not stupid but only see one line off the pump that goes to metal lines to the front. Otherwise think I'm done with the donor!
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That’s the abs module/pump/valves. If you are into selling things, it’s worth a few bucks.

I think only 1 line for that year model.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
If you put your build info in your signature like this it'll help get better answers, quicker.

I think you've gotten your answer by now.

r3drckt said:
The LSJ fuel pump has a filter attached at the bottom of the pump
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The LSJ fuel pump does have a sock at the filter, but also an inline filter with a return line that the LNF (this build) doesn't have.
 
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Rauq said:
If you put your build info in your signature like this it'll help get better answers, quicker.

I think you've gotten your answer by now.


The LSJ fuel pump does have a sock at the filter, but also an inline filter with a return line that the LNF (this build) doesn't have.
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Thanks, will do. Just happy to be done with the tear down. Getting frame powder coated and going to start working on the wiring harness.
 
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Started the wire videos this week. Very smooth process so far. Had cut the wrong wire to thin once but lucked out that the sensor was removed. Will say the 6 minute video is very deceiving as it took me two hours to complete. Slow and steady though!

I know videos talk solder/heat shrink and seems that what most have done. Has anybody gone full crimp tube/heat shrink?

Also I dropped the frame off to get powder coated. Original estimate was two days, been two weeks now. In no rush as still going through harness but want to see how everything turned out.
 
Sluggonaut

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Lonewolf170 said:
I know videos talk solder/heat shrink and seems that what most have done. Has anybody gone full crimp tube/heat shrink?
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I'd be worried about resistance for some of the wires in the harness. I used some of the solder seal connectors in my light wiring but I soldered all of the harness connections.
 
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Sluggonaut said:
I'd be worried about resistance for some of the wires in the harness. I used some of the solder seal connectors in my light wiring but I soldered all of the harness connections.
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When you say resistance, talking about electrical resistance or physical to moving around?

I understand that expanding a wire would add two connectors into the mix.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
For normal 12v power supply wires, butt splice/crimp is fine (if you use the correct size and have good crimpers), at least for years until corrosion becomes an issue. I don't use insulated connectors very much and typically consider them as temporary. Bare connectors with heat shrink I would consider almost permanent for most 12v applications.

For sensor wiring, which is often 0v-5v and is sensitive to changes in "electrical resistance", soldering is better.

I typically do both, using bare crimp connectors, followed by solder, and covered by heat shrink.

The only negative to soldering is some claim that it can be more likely to break from vibration, but I've never had it cause an issue.
 
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Lonewolf170

Active Member
Continuing to work on wire harness. Getting better at soldering as I go. Somehow lost my fuel pump connector though. I must have cut it out while things still on the car and misplaced it. Grr!

Went to the donor shell and only found the evap wires. Will be hunting through the garage as I moved all my wiring inside the house to work on it. Hoping to not have to buy a new one
 
Cnixon160

Cnixon160

Active Member
Lonewolf170 said:
Continuing to work on wire harness. Getting better at soldering as I go. Somehow lost my fuel pump connector though. I must have cut it out while things still on the car and misplaced it. Grr!

Went to the donor shell and only found the evap wires. Will be hunting through the garage as I moved all my wiring inside the house to work on it. Hoping to not have to buy a new one
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If you end up having to buy a new one all GM listings are incorrect, 13587174 is the connector you need for the LNF in tank pump, it is also used in the CTSV Gen2 cars
 
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