James's Extended Track Goblin - 06 LS donor

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Yeah, that loop was tight. I slid several times trying to get around it. Lots of people slid in several spots on that course. I 180'ed once and completely lost traction another lap and took out all the cones....

I took y'alls advice and started drawing the course as a walked through it and that's helped a ton as far as navigating.

We started tracking some basic tire data (pressure, temps) in an effort to better learn how those variable affect the car's performance. My data nerd wife started analyzing the data yesterday. It's interesting as it appears that even though I felt like my alignment was pretty good, it's clear that the right front tire isn't quite right. The outer temp is noticeably lower compared to the middle and inner and the temps from the other tires.

I'm not quite sure what this means yet though... It's possible it's from some alignment issue. I also wonder if it's due to the longitudinal imbalance from having a driver but not a passenger....

26285
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Weight helps, but I have decreased my camber from -1.5 to -.5 on the front. Now I’m making good contact on the ground all the way from side to side.

also, keep going down on tire pressure until you stop spinning/sliding. I think I’m at 11.5f and 15r on my r888r’s. Check rear tires for its rollover and adjust.

hope you have addressed the brake proportioning. I added an adjustable prop valve to the front line to restrict the front brakes. Others have used manual brakes and such. Any way you do it, once the rears start working properly, you’ll find yourself coming in much hotter now that you can stop on all 4’s.

 
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jamesm

Goblin Guru
I'm still at -1.2 camber. I've got a pretty big list of stuff to work on this weekend and dropping the camber is one of them.

Generally, the rear end gets loose going through corners. I'll try dropping a few psi each run during the next event to find that tire roll point.

I haven't messed with the brakes any at all. They feel pretty good. As long as I don't stomp on the pedal, the car slows quickly and controllable.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
You’ll have to watch rear tire pressure as it will increase with heat. I’m usually dumping air on the rears between runs and really don’t have to touch the fronts since they don’t get hot.

the brake are “fine” till they ain’t. o_O
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
the brake are “fine” till they ain’t.
HA! No doubt.

I'm sure I'll find something else that needs tuned once I get the tires dialed in. Then I'll break something and "need" to upgrade it... The never ending quest to get better.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
So because I can’t leave anything alone, I’m trying to tweak my alignment to reduce the uneven heating on the front right tire, however, I hit a head scratcher…

Why would the camber measurement vary between the upright and the brake caliper? If the bearing carrier is bolted to the upright, shouldn’t those surfaces be parallel?
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Because those spacers and brackets may not be exactly true. Even the rotors and wheels are not totally exact true. A digital gauge is very exact. There will be variables to everything. Measure everything from the same spot every time and make that your own reference point.
 
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jamesm

Goblin Guru
@Dale E and I were chatting offline and it appears that it's just a design artifact as both sides have the same delta. I checked a bunch of other measurements and don't see anything off.

I'm going to go back and verify all my alignment specs with all measurements off the back of the brake rotor.
 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
I used that type of gauge and measured the same way you are and kept getting inconsistent results doing checks like that. I ended up just using a longacre angle finder on hub of the outer face of the rim once they were installed
 
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