James's Extended Track Goblin - 06 LS donor

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Finally got around to finishing my parking brake. I used a couple small pieces of 1/2” PEX tubing as i apparently threw the cobalt tubes away. It was super easy to finish. I don’t why I’ve put it off for so long.

I hooked the cable up to the caliper first, then ran it around the shock and under the motor. I then hooked the cable to the brake handle and eyeballed a piece of PEX between the back of the brake handle and the cable sheath. I didn’t get an exact measurement of the tube. I got it all in and working and realized I didn’t measure it.

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jamesm

Goblin Guru

TravMac

Well-Known Member
American Racer tires: https://www.americanracertires.com/product/23-5-10-0-15s-m-28/

Konig Dekagrams 15x10 4x100 lug: https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-2422.html

I test fit the wheel last night. The fronts just barely hit on the inner backside which I think will be solved with steering limiters. The rear wheels don't hit, but I'm not sure how much sidewall will stick out past the wheel. They are pretty close so I may have to put a small spacer on them.
You'll have to post up some pictures of how they fit up when it's all on! I'll be watchin this close... ha. It's the direction I think I want to go next.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
You are gonna LOVE those! Goblin will handle like a completely different car in the turns.
Now if I only knew how to drive... lol

Test fitted the new wheels. They are going to the tire shop today.

The backs are really close:
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The front's don't hit the leading arm but they do hit the trailing arm.
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They do clear the brakes and all the junk on the front.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The tire section width, which is slightly wider than the tread width, will bulge the tire sidewall anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inch wider than the rim. From the photos for the rear rims, it is likely a spacer will be needed to clear the strut/spring. For the front the steering rack limiter kit from DF will keep the wheels from contacting the control arms.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
The tire section width, which is slightly wider than the tread width, will bulge the tire sidewall anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inch wider than the rim. From the photos for the rear rims, it is likely a spacer will be needed to clear the strut/spring. For the front the steering rack limiter kit from DF will keep the wheels from contacting the control arms.
Yup. I know. That's why I mentioned it here:
I test fit the wheel last night. The fronts just barely hit on the inner backside which I think will be solved with steering limiters. The rear wheels don't hit, but I'm not sure how much sidewall will stick out past the wheel. They are pretty close so I may have to put a small spacer on them.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
You may want to revisit your alignment too. When I went to the 10” wide tires, I had to move the camber back to about 0.5 to get the whole tire to make good contact.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
You may want to revisit your alignment too. When I went to the 10” wide tires, I had to move the camber back to about 0.5 to get the whole tire to make good contact.
I’ve been meaning to back the camber down a little anyway. I’ll have to go through the alignment procedure after I install the steering rack limiters so I’ll do it then.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Got’em mounted and believe it or not, they don’t rub in the back. It’s crazy close though.

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They look really good. Hopefully we don’t get any rain tonight so the course is dry tomorrow
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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Got’em mounted and believe it or not, they don’t rub in the back. It’s crazy close though.

View attachment 36397View attachment 36398View attachment 36399

They look really good. Hopefully we don’t get any rain tonight so the course is dry tomorrow
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Let me know what pressures you run. I have been 20 rear 15 front for the last year and have had very even wear.
your fronts looked a little ballooned.
I bet those rear stretch and rub. Hope I am wrong.
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Got’em mounted and believe it or not, they don’t rub in the back. It’s crazy close though.

View attachment 36397View attachment 36398View attachment 36399

They look really good. Hopefully we don’t get any rain tonight so the course is dry tomorrow
View attachment 36400View attachment 36401
Ooh, that's really close. Keep in mind the tire will shift laterally on the rim under cornering forces - the road contact patch mostly, but the opposite side of the tire must move a little in the opposite direction to compensate. A close eye on the inside edge of the tire is highly recommended. ;)

But hey, nice setup for the track! :D
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Yay. More oddities with my car. So I have all 4 slicks on now. The rear left measures 15/64” between the tire and shock. The rear right measures 3/32”. My first thought was, the camber is off. Measuring the actual wheel, the camber is -1.4° on both. Measuring the angle of the shock base, the left is -6.5° and the right is -4.8°.
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So the shock angle is the cause of the difference between the tires but I have no idea why they are different.

It’s kind of academic at this point. Autozone had some inexpensive 1/4” spacers so that should clear up any clearance issues.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Yay. More oddities with my car. So I have all 4 slicks on now. The rear left measures 15/64” between the tire and shock. The rear right measures 3/32”. My first thought was, the camber is off. Measuring the actual wheel, the camber is -1.4° on both. Measuring the angle of the shock base, the left is -6.5° and the right is -4.8°.
View attachment 36402View attachment 36403View attachment 36404View attachment 36405
So the shock angle is the cause of the difference between the tires but I have no idea why they are different.

It’s kind of academic at this point. Autozone had some inexpensive 1/4” spacers so that should clear up any clearance issues.
Is your floor level. My garage floor is 0.3 degrees down to the left. I have to take this into account to add this to the left wheel camber and subtract from the measurement on the right.

Joe
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
It’s also just manufacturing tolerances stacking up. It doesn’t take much warpage during welding to throw the upper mount out some. Add in the tolerances of the subframe and control arms and a few degrees happens pretty quickly.
 
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