Jared's Florida Road/Track Build - 06 SS/SC (#230)

jaredthenav

jaredthenav

Well-Known Member
Been a little slow going recently but today I finally connected the engine side of the coolant hoses and filled the system as well as the intercooler system. Then connected the battery, lost (and then found) the key, put the battery on the charger, put 5 gallons into the gas tank, and turned the key. Power came on fine, heard the fuel pump come on. The gas pedal opened the throttle body. The button panel cycled through the menu options. The key security light went out. But the starter wouldn't crank. I didn't do any trouble shooting, so lots of things to try\test but bummed the first attempt at a start want successful. Any ideas on where to start trouble shooting?
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Check the ground that comes from the headlight block in the main fuse box.

Did you grind off any paint/powder coat from your frame, where it mates to the engine? If not, you need the thick grounding strap run between the engine block and the ground point on the frame, near the engine.

I had the same problem, and for me it was a bent pin on the engine harness's fuse block connector. At the very least, make sure all the 7mm bolts are super-tight in your fuse box; those pull the fuse block connectors all up into the fuse blades and are a common source of problems for people on here.
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
Clutch safety switch. There are two identical connectors on my car that are easily reversed. I can check tomorrow and ID them both for you.
 
Zoom Zoom

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
I know the feeling of not starting on first attempt, mine was the battery ground cable to the frame had to grind off powder coat on ground bolt. Then we had lift off !
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
jaredthenav said:
Wow. Feeling really dumb. Thanks Frank for the tip. I didn't push on the clutch. Once we did that, it fired right up! Cohen and I are pretty excited and shocked we didn't screw it up. I tried to upload the video but I guess the site doesn't take mp4?
Click to expand...
Excellent. Congratulations on the first start. What I did was upload my first start video to YouTube & then just post a link to that.
 
jaredthenav

jaredthenav

Well-Known Member
I had some time this morning before work so I put in the rest of the Riv Nuts for the firewall and center tunnel. I'm really glad the forums put me on to this idea. I like it much better than riveting down the tunnel cover. I'm certain I'll need to get back in there! Tomorrow I'll mount the rest of the exhaust and let the engine run up to temp and make sure my fan kicks on, and cycle the coolant through the radiator and heat exchanger. Then on to the front and rear suspension. Oh, and since the car starts, I'm feeling better about finally taping up the wiring harness.
 
jaredthenav

jaredthenav

Well-Known Member
I put on the muffler and let the car idle for about 15 minutes this evening and finally found where it was leaking oil.
20210122_231152.jpg


I believe this is the oil pressure sender? It looks like the cover comes off with 2 nuts; is there supposed to be a gasket on there? If not, I guess I'll put a ton of liquid gasket to try and seal it off.

The coolant got up to about 170; tomorrow I'll run it up more and make sure the fan kicks on.
 
jaredthenav

jaredthenav

Well-Known Member
So did a few minor things on the car today. Put in that can position sensor gasket and took care of that leak. Messed around with the PAX side coolant hose to give it more space off the serpentine belt. Then let it run for a while to try to get the fan to kick on. It got up to about 215 and still no fan. I'll recheck those connections. It was also not idling very well. I have both O2 sensors in, so unplugged the back one. That seemed to help but it kept surging or idling at 1500 Rpms. Any ideas? Then spent a bit zip tieing up wires and test fitted the tunnel cover for the first time and the holes didn't line up.
20210130_162343.jpg
20210130_162354.jpg


The back 2 homes line up, then the other holes are exactly 4 inches off. I guess I'll give Adam a call on Monday. Otherwise, ready to start the suspension.
 
Anks329

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Check the orientation of the MAF sensor, there is a little arrow for the direction of the air flow. Also, check for vacuum leaks along the intake, throttle body and brake booster. I had similar issues with surging idle rpm and a combo of the above fixed it. And when you make these changes, disconnect the battery for a few minutes so the short and long term fuel trims are zerod out.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Hmm, me thinks the center tunnel is welded in 180 out, based on where the the holes are located. Nothing a sharpie and a drill can't fix - and I know all about drilling holes. :p
 
Zoom Zoom

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
jaredthenav said:
So did a few minor things on the car today. Put in that can position sensor gasket and took care of that leak. Messed around with the PAX side coolant hose to give it more space off the serpentine belt. Then let it run for a while to try to get the fan to kick on. It got up to about 215 and still no fan. I'll recheck those connections. It was also not idling very well. I have both O2 sensors in, so unplugged the back one. That seemed to help but it kept surging or idling at 1500 Rpms. Any ideas? Then spent a bit zip tieing up wires and test fitted the tunnel cover for the first time and the holes didn't line up. View attachment 20362View attachment 20363

The back 2 homes line up, then the other holes are exactly 4 inches off. I guess I'll give Adam a call on Monday. Otherwise, ready to start the suspension.
Click to expand...
Picture of MAF correct position
 

Attachments

Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
If your air filter is too close to the MAF sensor, it can throw off the MAF readings.
I had to undo the rubber to aluminum connections, pull the intake tube as far away from the MAF sensor, and make the air-filter to MAF sensor as long as possible. Good picture Zoom Zoom.
Also checking for air leaks video. I found 4! air leaks in my intake. Need to tighten the hose clamps more than I realized.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
If your air filter is too close to the MAF sensor, it can throw off the MAF readings.
I had to undo the rubber to aluminum connections, pull the intake tube as far away from the MAF sensor, and make the air-filter to MAF sensor as long as possible. Good picture Zoom Zoom.
Also checking for air leaks video. I found 4! air leaks in my intake. Need to tighten the hose clamps more than I realized.
Click to expand...
The distance of the filter to the MAF on our car is even shorter. I've always been aware that it should be longer but our tube with the MAF mount is short. I'm not going to say that it's not causing an issue, but it doesn't seem to be terrible.
 
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