Dragon Motorsports 1.0 [Extended\Full-Cage\Double Door Bars] - [Frame #290] - SOLD

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Thanks, was not initially planning on the button panel because my donor does not have cruise control.

I may purchase a 3D-Printer and design a custom panel. My daytime job has me as the "Manager, Engineering CAD" so I have complete access to all kinds of CAD software, PTC Creo, Siemens NX, SolidWorks, AutoCAD and Fusion 360.

Yesterday I was thinking of looking at the AutoCAD Electrical module to create and document the thinned out wiring diagram that the Goblin will use.

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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Thanks, was not initially planning on the button panel because my donor does not have cruise control.

I may purchase a 3D-Printer and design a custom panel. My daytime job has me as the "Manager, Engineering CAD" so I have complete access to all kinds of CAD software, PTC Creo, Siemens NX, SolidWorks, AutoCAD and Fusion 360.

Yesterday I was thinking of looking at the AutoCAD Electrical module to create and document the thinned out wiring diagram that the Goblin will use.

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Makes sense. Without cruise, I wouldn't use the DF panel either. I think you have a good plan.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
@ctuinstra made his own button panel and provided the STL file if you wanted to use that. mounts the buttons below the gauge cluster. All you'd need to get is the 3d printer (or someone here can make it for you if you'd like) and the switches for the options you were going to use (horn, info, return, etc.) Here's the STL posts and you can scroll down to see it with the files and link to the original post: https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/custom-stl-files-for-3d-printed-goblin-parts.2174/
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Yes, thanks :) I have been downloading any and all STL files that I have come across, which sparked my interest in finally getting a 3D-Printer
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I’m having a heck of a time trying to lift the knuckle off of the ball joint :( drops about 1/8 of an inch and that’s it. Do I need to keep trying to wiggle it off or is there some other techniques of getting it off? If you look close of enough you can see I even snapped off the tip of a screwdriver off.

 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Some PB Blaster (by some I mean a lot) and than use a crowbar to wedge either in that slit or between the knuckle and the ball joint pry it loose.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I’m having a heck of a time trying to lift the knuckle off of the ball joint :( drops about 1/8 of an inch and that’s it. Do I need to keep trying to wiggle it off or is there some other techniques of getting it off? If you look close of enough you can see I even snapped off the tip of a screwdriver off.

It looks like something is broken off in the split toward the control arm? The ball joint stub has as circular slot about 1/2 way down the shaft (this is what the retention bolt catches into). Is this broken piece catching into the slot? Since the ball joint moves some and then stops this could be the issue.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Can you try putting a little bit of heat to the knuckle? Hopefully that would break free some corrosion that would hold onto the ball joint stub.
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
Is a pickle fork used to separate this, if so I just need to find mine (and good luck with that)
I tried but mine was too narrow to fit. I ended up giving it a solod smack with a hammer on the side and it knocked it loose.

another way is to use an air hammer or I’ve used a hammer drill to impact on the ball joint to free it
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
With an estimated current ship date of 5/7 I decided to order the wheels I wanted now rather than later and perhaps have the date pushed out even further?

They are 17X7 ASA AR1 Titanium Gunmetal and will have BFGoodrich G-Force COMP-2 A/S Plus 215/45ZR17’S mounted on them.





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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
My Seibon wing was ordered in December with a ship date mid March. Carbon fiber wings seem to be hard to come by at the moment.
 
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