JBINTX
Goblin Guru
You can make it work. If you do not care about the small "fix". Some might tell you to buy a new reservoir....
Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC
- Thread starter JBINTX
- Start date
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
It adds character. Mine is intact but it doesn't look quite right. It looks like its off center and stretching to make into the bracket once bolted up. No one will notice but you. There is way too much to look at on the car than a silly "modified" bracket. Plus the hood will cover it if you are going to use it...
I've noticed the ones on the forum that might not like it or "tell you to buy a new reservoir" are the ones who haven't finished and driven (or even started) theirs yet...
Get to building and once finished, you will be smiling so much you won't remember... PS. - you will have multiple scratches, dings and imperfections before you are driving with all the panels on - FACT!
Zoom Zoom
Goblin Guru
Hate to bother you again, But I think I seen on your site we can take the evac thing off. I guess the wires also. I’m trying to clean my engine up also. Besides the ac wires can we take anything else off to clean up. . If you get time maybe you can shoot me a few photos of how cleaned up you got the wiring . THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Attachments
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
I left mine on and capped it with a vacuum cap and clamp. Under boost it will throw the cap off if not clamped. I read somewhere it would throw a code if not retained. You can hear it click with the key on...
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
Never a bother - at all.
With the evap valve removed, I just made an aluminum plate to cover over the port where it was mounted. As for the plug, I have not removed it from the harness, yet. It is just tucked away and taped over, for now. The harness parts that are no longer used (AC, Evap) can be removed if you are re-working the engine harness. I think Lonny said you could also just cut those specific pigtails from the harness and seal / tape up the ends (may have some powers in there to seal) if you did not want to unwrap the entire harness. That would be a little cleaner than what I have done so far. I kind of skipped through the harness part faster than most others by having DF rework the main part.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
you left the Evap valve connected to the harness? Even though it was no longer connected to the engine?
Zoom Zoom
Goblin Guru
I took the AC wires out of the engine harness and figured I would take the evap wires out also sense I’m already into it. I don’t have anything left to do. I had DF do my harness also. Still waiting on 189 to be shipped. Clutch came today but I don’t want to take engine off of stand to just put that in will wait until I can put in GOBLIN AND DO IT ALL AT ONCE.
I had labeled 2 wires AC but I only cut out the one that matched up to AC, Don’t know why I would label 2 AC wires I’m nervous about cutting other wire labeled AC
I had labeled 2 wires AC but I only cut out the one that matched up to AC, Don’t know why I would label 2 AC wires I’m nervous about cutting other wire labeled AC
Attachments
Last edited:
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
I also hit a time where I was done prepping and still did not have the kit. Kind of stinks once you get rolling along.
That was when I started cleaning my intake valves. Excess time allows one to do some things that really weren't planned....You better remove the wires from the harness "properly" to go with that beautiful spotless engine!!!!!!!
The clutch only takes an hour or so. No biggie there. I hope you can get your frame shipped soon!
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
Yes, I read somewhere on the forum that it should be left. When you turn the key, the engine will go through a start cycle. During that time the Evap solenoid will cycle, you can hear it. It was my understanding it will throw codes if not plugged in and allowed to cycle during startup. I could be wrong, but my Goblin is running great without any engine codes.
Last edited:
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
interesting..... I do have the code - no biggie with all the other codes from the deleted systems as well. But, the engine appears to be running fine as well...... I recall Lonny saying just leave it off.
Anyone know what the possible implications are with the valve missing? And how the engine should/would/could be affected? Maybe there are some implications I missed.
Last edited:
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
I drove about 30 minutes tonight hitting some hard first to second shifts. Expanding the operating envelope a little. Hitting 15psi boost is a rush!!!
The "more horsepower" bug started biting me...... I think a good tune would be a sensible place to start.
After about 20 minutes of driving, I noticed the DIC message center on the gauges was reading "POWER STEERING". I looked up the warning in the original manual when I got back. All it says is to take it to a Chevrolet Service Center.
I looked up recalls online. There was one for power steering in certain year models of the Cobalt. Mine did not come up as one that was recalled. I think I will call Chevrolet and let them run the VIN in their system to see if they find any applicable recalls.
Anyone else encounter this warning message?
The "more horsepower" bug started biting me...... I think a good tune would be a sensible place to start.
After about 20 minutes of driving, I noticed the DIC message center on the gauges was reading "POWER STEERING". I looked up the warning in the original manual when I got back. All it says is to take it to a Chevrolet Service Center.
I looked up recalls online. There was one for power steering in certain year models of the Cobalt. Mine did not come up as one that was recalled. I think I will call Chevrolet and let them run the VIN in their system to see if they find any applicable recalls.
Anyone else encounter this warning message?
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
I would assume it worked fine before, so I would at least check power and ground for starters.
I doubt the dealer would even touch it. They only like new, unmolested vehicles. Even if it had a recall, I doubt they would do anything about it, because it’s not a cobalt anymore.
I can bring my tech2 by if you want to know the codes and see what the data is showing. .
I doubt the dealer would even touch it. They only like new, unmolested vehicles. Even if it had a recall, I doubt they would do anything about it, because it’s not a cobalt anymore.
I can bring my tech2 by if you want to know the codes and see what the data is showing. .
Indy Lonnie
Well-Known Member
Make sure your power-steering box is plugged in... If I remember it is 2 connectors. I had that code after unplugging it to organize some wiring. I didn't have it seated properly.
15 lbs of boost is nothing. Wait until you hit 25! That is when the car starts to steer itself!
15 lbs of boost is nothing. Wait until you hit 25! That is when the car starts to steer itself!
Ross
Goblin Guru
I also had that error message. I had to replace my power steering motor. That fixed it, but occasionally it would pop up the error. When I reseated the low power wires on the electronic power steering module, it would go away. So I replaced the EPS module.... but still, it occasionally comes back. Probably need to tighten the pins in the wire harness, or repin it.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
I assume you got it tuned to get to 25 psi? I was contemplating going the ZZP remote tune option. Because one can never have enough HP........
I have read some good reviews of their process. I am not trying to gain gobs of HP. But, it would be nice to get 40-50 more and have the engine tuned in its present altered Goblin state.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
I will check all the electrical connections. The steering seems to be operating properly even though the message came up.
What was the change that you noticed (if any) in its operation when it "failed"?
I did notice an ever so subtle "catch" when turning the wheel. I thought it was the universal joint rubbing on the firewall. I enlarged the hole in the firewall, but still noticed the slight "catch". Is that maybe the power steering motor not functioning properly?