Jay’s Build Log- Track Goblin, extended #323, 07 SS SC
- Thread starter jayrolls
- Start date
GoblinGal
Goblin Guru
Hey, get the bumps out of the way now. Smoother sailing down the road! Congrats on the donor!!Well got the donor for a good price, have had two different shipping companies flake on us. Know my son and I are flying to Cleveland tomorrow to go pick it up ourselves. Not too mention I accidentally won an 09 LS manual on Copart that it looks like I will be paying a restocking fee. Not the way I wanted to start this journey.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Details on the donor? We can see it's an SS.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
07 SS SC manual, which I think may be the only way they come. 103K picked up as salvage. Hood and roof damage. It’s a northern car, looks like I will be dealing with some rust. But super excited to do this project.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
Got the donor off the trailer, had to use a jump pack to get it started. But fired up first try. Something wrong with the clutch, have to have pedal fully to the floor. If you move your foot half an inch it tries to jump into gear and kinda hard to get into reverse. Was able to take it around the block. Seems to run good, will have to replace the turn signal switch, doesn’t turn off when turning. But it’s a start.
Attachments
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
Donor tear down day 1-
Had a shattered windshield, that was fun to get out. Only cut myself twice and nothing bad. Got the doors, fenders, front end off. Started removing the wiring in the trunk. Figure I would knock out some of the easy stuff. We got the car cleaned before tear down, can tell this thing is from the north, lots of rust.
Had a shattered windshield, that was fun to get out. Only cut myself twice and nothing bad. Got the doors, fenders, front end off. Started removing the wiring in the trunk. Figure I would knock out some of the easy stuff. We got the car cleaned before tear down, can tell this thing is from the north, lots of rust.
Attachments
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
I will try to bleed it this week and see if that does the trick. That or a slave cylinder. Figure I should start small.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
It’s been a long day, I meant to say master cylinder.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
I haven’t looked that deep yet. It would be nice if Stage 2 was already done.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
Donor tear down day 2-
Got the rear bumper off, the trunk lid, rear seats and floor carpet. Put the front seats back in so I can test drive after bleeding the clutch.
Ordered a Mityvac and attachment to bleed the clutch and a new turn signal switch. Should be able to get the clutch bleed tomorrow, hopefully. It’s all starting to come apart.
Got the rear bumper off, the trunk lid, rear seats and floor carpet. Put the front seats back in so I can test drive after bleeding the clutch.
Ordered a Mityvac and attachment to bleed the clutch and a new turn signal switch. Should be able to get the clutch bleed tomorrow, hopefully. It’s all starting to come apart.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
IMO if the donor lived its life it the rust belt and things are hard to get apart on the front, they will be impossible on the rear..... I wasted a better part of a day getting the tank out, not being able to disconnect the fuel lines the pump got toasted. I also left the rear hubs and calipers.... made it much easier to get the carcass out of the shop and loaded and who wants to have 120k mile plus bearings on the front of a land rocket!
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
That is what I am noticing. Gonna have to order a new filler neck because it is really bad. I think I am going to just order a new fuel pump and avoid even having to deal with that part of the tear down. I am inclined to agree about the hubs.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
Looked this morning, no such luck. The pulley for sure is still stock, I haven’t gotten to the injectors yet. But I would imagine still stock as well.
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
First attempt at vacuum bleeding the clutch helped very little. Gonna try leaving the vacuum on it over night and see if that helps.
Boost gauge worked on first donor test drive, today while testing the clutch the boost gauge did not move at all. I checked and it is connected. Any thoughts?
Boost gauge worked on first donor test drive, today while testing the clutch the boost gauge did not move at all. I checked and it is connected. Any thoughts?
jayrolls
Well-Known Member
Note- found a diagram for the electrical for the boost gauge on the forum. Somehow during day 2 tear down the wiper fuse vanished. Installed new fuse and boost gauge works again. Now if I can just get a stronger feeling clutch pedal, I will be ready to work on finishing my tear down.
Make sure you are filling the reservoir up high enough. The reservoir section that supplies fluid for the clutch only gets filled when the fluid level is really high.
Illuminate the backside of the reservoir and see if the back section has any fluid in it.
Also, make sure your clutch pedal can completely release the clutch master cylinder. It has to be fully out to open a fluid passage into the clutch master cylinder. If the clutch is even slightly depressed, it will block the flow and keep you from bleeding the system.
This is more common in early models with pushbutton switches. The top switch can interfere with the clutch pedal returning.
Also, if the return spring is broken on your clutch pedal, you may have to physically pull the pedal up and hold it until you get it bled.
Illuminate the backside of the reservoir and see if the back section has any fluid in it.
Also, make sure your clutch pedal can completely release the clutch master cylinder. It has to be fully out to open a fluid passage into the clutch master cylinder. If the clutch is even slightly depressed, it will block the flow and keep you from bleeding the system.
This is more common in early models with pushbutton switches. The top switch can interfere with the clutch pedal returning.
Also, if the return spring is broken on your clutch pedal, you may have to physically pull the pedal up and hold it until you get it bled.