Jim McDonald // Extended Track // '09 HHR SS/TC Automatic

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
Ark, I took my first ride in the HHR about a week after you posted pics of your cams and head, I could hear that chain big time. You're the reason I took it apart.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Glad to have been of service. I'm watching your build with great interest, not just because you're trying to build a LNF automatic Goblin, but because it's inspiring to see your progress. Great work so far!
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
You narrowly avoided the fate of my first donor's engine. It was painful to see rockers broken off and laying all over the place in the engine. I'm happy yours survived.

Anyone reading this that has not done it, install a new-style tensioner and a Dorman bolt.
Do you know the torque spec for the new bolt?
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
Hmmm.....according to Chilton DIY the original timing chain guide bolt for my '10 SS/TC should be torqued to 55 lb ft.

10932
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The Dorman bolt uses the threads in the outer case, with a big 20mm ish size thread, not the original 8mm ish bolt.
That being said, 7 or 8 foot pounds is probably enough.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
After seeing how this bolt is made. It is 55 ft/lb. for the bolt. Dorman Instructions The original 6mm bolt was only 89in/lb. since this is using the threads for the plug it is a lot higher.

Sorry Torch you were closer than I thought. But I still say at 55 lbs it will be tight :)
That video says to tighten it "according to the factory specifications for the access plug."

ALLDATAdiy.com says for my 2006 SS SC LSJ engine:
Tighten the chain guide plug to 90 N.m (59 lb ft).
So my guess of 7-8 foot pounds was wrong. :(
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the hep everyone.

I got the 66ft-lb number from the Cloyes video on Youtube. That is the torque spec for the plug that RouteAbel pointed out. Interestingly enough, when I got to a desktop last night I checked alldata (duh, I dont know why I didn't think of it earlier. Guess because I've never had it before), and their number matches Cloyes. The interesting thing is that its different than the cobalt ss/tc and HHR ss/tc
Screenshot (3).png


Anyway, thanks for the help.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the hep everyone.

I got the 66ft-lb number from the Cloyes video on Youtube. That is the torque spec for the plug that RouteAbel pointed out. Interestingly enough, when I got to a desktop last night I checked alldata (duh, I dont know why I didn't think of it earlier. Guess because I've never had it before), and their number matches Cloyes. The interesting thing is that its different than the cobalt ss/tc and HHR ss/tcView attachment 10935

Anyway, thanks for the help.
What is crazy is I have Alldata full version not the DIY one my specs are different. I looked up a 2005 2.0 SC and my 2009 2.2 NA and both say 55 lb/ft. ??????
10936


I do not know what to believe.
 
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Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
Just a quick post this morning. Progress has been slow, but have finished a couple of chores.

Finished the timing chain install. I'm really glad we decided to do it.

20191219_084804.jpg


We did the vvt actuator solenoids with which I'm a little concerned with what we found there.

20191205_154521.jpg


20191205_155735.jpg


Its just carbon, but a lot of it.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
I have already repositioned the to 180 degrees to the bottom but at a rough glance there are two things that concern me.

The pump height is shorter.
20191218_104450.jpg

It may not even be enough to matter.

There second thing is the fuel level float.
20191218_104229.jpg

The Cobalt, on the right, is bent inwards where the HHR is bent outward. You may be able to find a position it will clear as there float moves from top to bottom.

Also
20191218_104314.jpg

There are some EVAP ports at the top of the pump that will need to be capped.

If all else fails you can get a turbo cobalt pump.
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
Thanks Lonny. I sure appreciate all of the extra diagnostics you've done for this build.

I think if the electrical works, the simplest solution would be to install the Cobalt ss/tc fuel pump. We know it works, i.e., more fuel can be removed from the tank, the float wont strike the tank, fuel level indicator will be acurate, and fewer ports for fuel to leak from.
 
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