Joebobs build log SS/NA Auto Extended City frame #270

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
For those with the standard steering wheel, is there anything to do to separate the wheel and turn signal? I keep banging it when I turn. View attachment 28890
You can use a Joes Steering wheel spacer to create some additional space. For driving ergonomics, sit as would in your normal driving position, one at a time, reach one arm out and lay it on top of the steering wheel. Your wrist should be able to just bend and just behind the steering wheel. If your wrist is already far beyond the steering wheel, your already too close and a spacer won't help.
20190610_220217.jpg
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
You can use a Joes Steering wheel spacer to create some additional space. For driving ergonomics, sit as would in your normal driving position, one at a time, reach one arm out and lay it on top of the steering wheel. Your wrist should be able to just bend and just behind the steering wheel. If your wrist is already far beyond the steering wheel, your already too close and a spacer won't help.
View attachment 28906
I ordered the 1/2". That should allow enough space to not hit the turn signal arm, not be too close to me, and allow the center nut to tighten on the adapter below the steering wheel. Solution all around. Thanks so much.

Joe
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Take any and all paperwork, even if you don’t need it. You never know what curve balls they can throw.

And good luck
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Well the paperwork is being sent off to Austin. I don't know the issues or rejection chances are but it is away with my name and number for phone calls. Gave the whole package at once to the clerk and she reviewed it. She stated that I need the Sherriff to inspect the VIN. I stated that per the Assembled manual, the MCO is sufficient. She took the package to not 1 but 2 other people (neither was the famed Charlotte) and the mulled it over for 20 minutes page by page. She came back and stated that I needed the inspection report. I showed her where the report number was on the rebuilt form but handed her my copy of the paper received from the inspection station. She held up the copy of the donor cobalt title I put in the package and I stated was to prove ownership of the donor and motor (I did not offer, nor did they request the Original title at this time). She also asked for a bill of sale for the motor. I stated that the Bill of sale and the title are for the whole car which included the motor. I showed some pictures of the donor in engine removal stages and she rolled her eyes in disgust to think that was "proof". I did the VRT-63 Bill of sale form to record the engine and transmission numbers as myself as buyer and seller. We will see if that holds up.

Fingers crossed. In the end I submitted as my package:
Form 130-u Application for title and registration
Pictures of front, side and rear (front picture taken nice and low to show low ground clearance, a front radiator, and lack of off highway capability
Evidence of ownership with:
VTR-63 Bill of sale for serialized components (motor and transmission) from me to me with pictures of serial numbers
Copy of Cobalt title signed over to me but was not in my name with picture of VIN tag of Cobalt
Bill of sale from the Salvage auction for the Cobalt showing my name and the VIN
MCO from DF goblin to report the VIN number so you should not need Police VIN verification
Safety inspection for Goblin (but not with emissions) Hope that does not bite me.
Insurance is required prior to inspect.
VTR-64 Master ASE mechanic inspection with printout of current levels
Certified weight slip.

I will report on the Texas registration as I get more feedback to if it works or not.

Joe
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
The reason for the Safety only inspection instead of the emissions is that while I have all the components, I haven't been able to drive it enough wo get all the OBDII monitors to check and pass the tests. I read the rules and my options and felt I had 3 ways to get this to work.

1. Have the Safety only and hope they pass with no issue.
2. If they don't pass, try to invoke an emission exception by only allowing to use for 60 days a year under Code 548.3012 whereas I can most likely stay under the 60 days a year and have to freedom to pass emissions and remove the exception later.
3. Apply for a 30 day temporary permit to be road legal to try to pass emission readiness which requires a least a safety inspection.

I don't know if I can draw on 2 or 3 now that the paperwork is gone. I was shocked that the follow-up communication is by phone and you write your name and number on a sticky note. No receipt, no nada, so I don't know how to get in touch to see if there are issues or miss a call.

Hope they didn't just throw it away.

Joe
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
. She held up the copy of the donor cobalt title I put in the package and I stated was to prove ownership of the donor and motor (I did not offer, nor did they request the Original title at this time). She also asked for a bill of sale for the motor. I stated that the Bill of sale and the title are for the whole car which included the motor. I showed some pictures of the donor in engine removal stages and she rolled her eyes in disgust to think that was "proof".
We went round and round on this and it ended with me saying “I don’t know where to go from here”. You could see they knew what I was saying, but didn’t want to lose the argument. They ended up sending the title and “see what happens”. :rolleyes:
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
The reason for the Safety only inspection instead of the emissions is that while I have all the components, I haven't been able to drive it enough wo get all the OBDII monitors to check and pass the tests. I read the rules and my options and felt I had 3 ways to get this to work.

1. Have the Safety only and hope they pass with no issue.
2. If they don't pass, try to invoke an emission exception by only allowing to use for 60 days a year under Code 548.3012 whereas I can most likely stay under the 60 days a year and have to freedom to pass emissions and remove the exception later.
3. Apply for a 30 day temporary permit to be road legal to try to pass emission readiness which requires a least a safety inspection.

I don't know if I can draw on 2 or 3 now that the paperwork is gone. I was shocked that the follow-up communication is by phone and you write your name and number on a sticky note. No receipt, no nada, so I don't know how to get in touch to see if there are issues or miss a call.

Hope they didn't just throw it away.

Joe
This is how the .gov works. You have to pass emissions, but you can’t drive it for that to happen. Plus in the state inspection rules, an emission test is only needed from 2-24 years old. So explain that? -rhetorical question-

Be prepared to get an emission test though. Others had to do it. I’m not in an emission county, so I didn’t need to do one.

I think it took a couple of weeks and I got a phone call to come pick up the paperwork. Once that’s done, you take it to the tag office to get those. Hopefully that’ll happen soon.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
This is how the .gov works. You have to pass emissions, but you can’t drive it for that to happen. Plus in the state inspection rules, an emission test is only needed from 2-24 years old. So explain that? -rhetorical question-

Be prepared to get an emission test though. Others had to do it. I’m not in an emission county, so I didn’t need to do one.

I think it took a couple of weeks and I got a phone call to come pick up the paperwork. Once that’s done, you take it to the tag office to get those. Hopefully that’ll happen soon.
I will keep trying to drive it to clear the monitors and if they call, I will try options 2 and 3 if I can't clear them before they call. Once the monitors clear, I will run over to get inspected in anticipation of the call. So archaic that I have to wait by the phone for what could be weeks to move this forward. At least I wasn't blocked at the regional office.

Joe
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
OK, I am in a chatty mood it seems so I will give a little update to making my Goblin a more luxurious ride.

First up is I was flicking the turn signal switch on every turn and while running with my high beams would have helped, I bought the 1/2" spacer and longer bolts to gain more clearance. A little pricy but very well made and the nut to secure the splined adapter fits just under the steering wheel.

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I also followed @Rttoys and made a parking brake light and bracket. The original wiring has a single wire that goes to the parking brake switch. With key on, it is powered by the BCM. Just loop that wire up to the steering wheel area and through the tunnel to connect to the parking brake. the brake handle is grounded to the chassis so pulling up on the handle completes the circuit and illuminates the light. I also added door edge guard to the raw fiberglass edge as you can rub it while working the button panel and such. I would recommend a matte version as the glossy reflects in the windscreen.

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I bought a couple of bags from Amazon to hold stuff in front like a glove box and between the seats to hold stuff like fix a flat and some tools.
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With a recommendation from @Rttoys I applied some 4" anti-skid tape to the floor to reduce slippage.
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Got a cell phone holder so I can log sensors while I drive. Extends, tils, rotates and holds the phone solid. Not autocross tested though.
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I also followed a lot of discussion and put aluminum composite panel under the front. I skipped the cone slicing edges for a more subtle and approach angle friendly shape. I haven't peeled the plastic off nor gone more than 30 mph with it on. Knowing this plan, I put rivnuts along the bottom of the front bulkhead panel so I could use that trailing edge to attach the back of the panel. I used the radiator support bolt holes for the mid support and made a simple aluminum plate with some rivnuts to attach the front right behind the radiator. This way I can remove the hood or the panel independently of each other. I originally tried the score and break method of shaping, but found that a bandsaw with standard wood blades cut much better.

I am debating on putting a rubber air dam to the leading edge. Conflicting aero knowledge says yes, it creates a low pressure zone after the air dam causing downforce and some people say keep all the air flowing fast and smooth to lower pressure over the bottom panels. Input requested.

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And FINALLY...
I have been having P2138 errors where the car would go into reduced power mode intermittently. Clearing the codes also clears my drive cycle and emission readiness monitors. I read that it is most likely a wiring issue and as we have to extend the wires, we have 12 connects that can be not perfect. Since the two sensors are so sensitive, they are more sensitive to any resistance change compared to a simple supply wire. I didn't want to mess with any of it anymore so I bought a new pedal, connector pigtail, and a length of 6 conductor shielded cable. I installed the pedal, soldered the pigtail ends and fished the shielded cable bundle down the tunnel to the ECM. Opened up the ECM plug loom and spliced the wires in about 6" from the plug to eliminate as much "bad" wire and connections. Plugged it all back together and let idle for 5 minutes to relearn. Have not driven much but noticed the just off idle does not jump from 900 to 1300 rpm but more like to 1100 rpm. maybe the sensor and wiring change but is not as big a jolt at initial tip in.

Sorry no pictures as it looks like nothing changed. Moral of the story, is make sure sensor connections are super secure with low resistance and the DF design allows you to fish front to back new wires if need to.

Whew, I am done.

Joe
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Glad I could help. :D

The only thing I could add on the steering wheel is to change to another wheel with a quick release. That pushes it out a good ways.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
The Circle of life is complete for the Cobalt. Bought the "beast" in December of 2020 to start the build.
31966


18 months later and tired of selling parts off of it, she has been sent on the the scrapyard. I sold almost $2200 worth of parts on my $1750 purchase and got to keep all the Goblin needed parts. A message to a local free scrap metal pickup offer, and what's left is off to the crusher.

31967


Disappointed that I never sold the perfect doors as visually they seem like a lot but sold some amazingly obscure things that more than made up for it.

Now what do I do with this gaping hole in my garage?

31968
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Nobody on the goblin forum wants a….Goblin? The shame. I am afraid I have enough cars. 3 for me and one for the wife is plenty. Gotta catch up on stuff around the house as have neglected that for the past year.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Crap, it has been almost a year with no updates. Let me try to catch everyone up:

May UPDATE:
I added a clear Plexiglas panel in my desire to reduce unwanted heat from back flowing over the motor and hitting our necks. At 12" tall the back flow was still there even with my heavily tilted front windscreen. A taller version might have worked but I removed it and moved on. I used two tubing clamps and the lower attachment points for the engine cover.

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Joebob

Goblin Guru
JUNE UPDATE:

Continuing the heat reduction (Houston in summer) I made a front firewall like so many in the past did. My original side panels stopped at the mid bar height and so the hot radiator air would hit the front wall and come right back in over your outside legs. I used the old side panels as a template and fab'ed up new and taller ones that seal against the hood and the front wall sealing out the heat. Works great!!

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Old panel shape

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The white foam has since been painted black.

Joe
 
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