JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Just thought I’d pop in with a very small update. I experienced my first mechanical failure with the goblin. The oem clutch finally let go after about 5k miles of, shall we say, spirited driving.
I’m not sure what failed yet, as I haven’t taken it apart. But I think it’s something to do with the TOB as it doesn’t actuate at all when the pedal is depressed.
So I bought the ZZP “hybrid” kit that basically uses my f23 2.2l crankshaft bolt spacing but the larger flywheel and 9.5” clutch: https://zzperformance.com/products/2-2-2-4-9-5-clutch-kit
But now I’m concerned that I need the TOB spacer with this kit. I guess I won’t know until it’s taken apart and I can measure the TOB travel. They have a video on it but it’s just caused it to be a little more complicated. Oh well. Once it’s all back together I’ll let y’all know what I find out. If anyone has used that spacer or this kit let me know.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I have been to all the Motogp’s at cota. We have camped there all but the first year. They didn’t offer camping until the second year. There’s a group of us “originals” that hang out and cook a lot of good food for the weekend. :cool:

I have done 5 or 6 track days there on my motorcycle :cool:
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
GM had to be using some bargain basement flywheel bolts to not handle more than stock power in these engines.
Im not sure of the details. I spoke with several knowledgeable ecotec people and they basically said this only happens if you don’t replace them, since they’re torque to yield. Though I think I did, it’s possible I did not replace them when I did my initial build.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Im not sure of the details. I spoke with several knowledgeable ecotec people and they basically said this only happens if you don’t replace them, since they’re torque to yield. Though I think I did, it’s possible I did not replace them when I did my initial build.
Possible if they backed off as torque to yield stretches the threads but if they snapped due to power that is another issue :)
 

Jmar1622

Well-Known Member
I decided I didn’t like the stock plastic intake. It’s only supposed to be good for 10psi and my little Saab turbo is already exceeding that.

Big thanks to Brad for the Saab intake manifold. The base 2.2 throttle body fits absolutely perfectly. Clearly the same one as used in the 9-3.
View attachment 2719
Unfortunately the 4bar MAP does not fit the intake manifold. The screw does not line up and the hole in the intake is too big.

So, I JB welded the bolt into the threaded hole, I will cut it flush and drill/tap a new one for the MAP.

I then turned a very simple reducer that can be press fit into the hole to correctly size it for the Buick Regal 4bar MAP. It works great!

View attachment 2720
Any idea what year saab intake works? I haven't found anything on which years/model specifically.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I finished the clutch/flywheel repair. Was able to get everything installed and put back together in one day.

went for a drive, first impressions are: it’s way snappier. Its much more difficult to take off slowly, and more difficult to feather the clutch. Definitely feels more aggressive and track focused. Up shifts are easier, down shifts are harder. I haven’t quite wrapped my head around the logic of that but something to do with less rotating mass I’m sure.

these are the bolts I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XJQO9U/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the kit I used: https://zzperformance.com/products/2-2-2-4-9-5-clutch-kit

it allows you to use the bigger clutch normally found on the SS cars but with the smaller 6 bolt crank.

I’ll try and make a more detailed report when I have more seat time. I’ve only driven 15 minutes since the repair. Launches way harder that’s for sure.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I finished the clutch/flywheel repair. Was able to get everything installed and put back together in one day.

went for a drive, first impressions are: it’s way snappier. Its much more difficult to take off slowly, and more difficult to feather the clutch. Definitely feels more aggressive and track focused. Up shifts are easier, down shifts are harder. I haven’t quite wrapped my head around the logic of that but something to do with less rotating mass I’m sure.

these are the bolts I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XJQO9U/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the kit I used: https://zzperformance.com/products/2-2-2-4-9-5-clutch-kit

it allows you to use the bigger clutch normally found on the SS cars but with the smaller 6 bolt crank.

I’ll try and make a more detailed report when I have more seat time. I’ve only driven 15 minutes since the repair. Launches way harder that’s for sure.
Are you good at heel and toe downshifting? With a light flywheel and tighter clutch this is almost a must.
 
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