Justin Reed Racing DF Goblin

Justinreed7

I like anything that goes fast
Couple of questions about the rear sway bar... I am currently not running any sway bars - front or rear. I would have figured the use of the sway bar would have upset the suspension balance with the Goblin being so light - especially without a sway bar on the front.
Please educate...

1. Have you run without a sway bar?
2. Could you tell us why you chose to use the SS sway bar in the rear and the advantages of using it?
3. Have you tried the smaller non-SS sway bar?
4. Do you have plans for a front sway bar in the future?

I appreciate your input and real world experience...!!! Thanks!
Basically what sasquatch said..
the stock 400 front 300 rear is fine for the average street goblin and some autocross. Once you start going to big tracks and taking turns at higher speeds, the car looses the front end and pushes heavily. You can even tell it pushes on mountain roads as well. A front sway bar would just amplify the push even more. So i would never even consider a front sway bar. you can play with the sway bar size depending on your spring setup. lots of varying factors with setup balance
 

Justinreed7

I like anything that goes fast
Car Setup for SCCA Chasing the Dragon Hillclimb 2022 7/31/22
Engine:
2.1 LSJ Ecotec
2.4 ZZP Girdled Block
2.4 JE Pistons
2.0 Carrillo Rods
Stock 2.0 Crank
OTTP Balance Shaft delete kit
Category V Port Worx Head porting
ZZP reverse split turbo cams
ZZP 82# valve springs/Titanium retainers
Oem Intake/Exhaust valves
Oem rockers
ARP head studs
Oem LSJ head gasket
ARP timing chain guide bolts
ATI underdrive harmonic balancer
ARE Custom Drysump System w/ 2 gallon reservoir
S257 turbo
ZZP turbo header
Tial wastegate
modified saab 9-3 turbo intake
ZZP high voltage Coils

Fuel System:
E85
OTTP Fuel Lab BRFPS
ID1000cc Injectors
300l summit fuel pump with canister in tank
1/2 gallon surge tank
MagnaFuel 425 Inline fuel pump after surge tank
pumps wired to seperate relays
inline screen filters before surge tank and after inline pump
8an feed lines
6an return lines

Drivetrain:
F23 5 speed
FX500 Clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
team green diff insert (dont recommend at all, itll make you spin out of corners on throttle)
zzp stage 1 axles
DF new subframe, control arms & spindles (Amazing btw***)
DF direct link shifter

Chassis:
Nine Lives Racing 48 inch Front Wing with dual element 10 degrees, 69 inch rear wing 15 degrees
400lb front springs 500lb rear springs (spring setup was too stiff for the bumps at the event)

Brakes:
Wilwood pedal box 3/4 bore master cylinders
stock pads

Setup:
wastegate 15psi @400whp
1/8 toe in at front
0 toe in rear
-.5 front camber
-3 rear camber
275/35/15 Nankang AR-1s on 15x10 wheel
18psi cold front
19psi cold rear

Notes:
Car was push/loose at beginning of run then after a few corners just became loose after tires received a little heat. Bumps were very aggressive causing rear tires to leave pavement, needs softer spring rate. Rear wing needs higher mounting position or dual element installed, not enough rear downforce.

Event Results:
P1 in Special Open
P2 overall with a 112.379
2nd Fastest time of the events history
 
Last edited:

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
If I'm reading into this correctly, Justin has the prototype of the new rear suspension for testing? He is reporting improvement over the Cobalt setup, but most of us don't have the details - or photos of it installed - beyond the short write up from Lonny.

There has been much discussion about this rear suspension, on and off, but now that it sounds like the beta-test is (nearing?) completion, what is the decision? Manufacturer as an optional upgrade or ??? I'm certain it won't be cheap, but some builders will purchase for track time improvement of the rear suspension.
 
What kinds of improvements are apparent from the new rear subframe/suspension? Stiffer, more adjustable, lighter...? When DF releases it as an option we will have to weigh the pros to the price.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Has anyone else tried to run that short of a windshield? He has another video with that same height that he is running without glasses or helmet. It is on the Dragon so speeds aren't that high or for that long but my shorter windshield is about 12" and I get way to much wind in my face and eyes. Maybe I need to cut one even lower and see if it changes for the better. Of course it looks like I probably also set higher and I maybe taller than Justin.
 

Justinreed7

I like anything that goes fast
Here are a few pics of the unpainted subframe, control arms and machined aluminum spindles. Subframe is about 20lbs lighter and control arms are mounted by spherical bushings on all sides. Results have been no toe walk, dead straight acceleration at big power and predictability at the limit of grip. I big improvement over a stock setup.
 

Attachments

Justinreed7

I like anything that goes fast
Has anyone else tried to run that short of a windshield? He has another video with that same height that he is running without glasses or helmet. It is on the Dragon so speeds aren't that high or for that long but my shorter windshield is about 12" and I get way to much wind in my face and eyes. Maybe I need to cut one even lower and see if it changes for the better. Of course it looks like I probably also set higher and I maybe taller than Justin.
The wind hits me at the top of my head. I’m able to wear a hat facing forwards at speeds up to 80mph. I’m 5’9 but I do sit down low in the seat when cruising around and don’t have my butt all the way to the backrest
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Here are a few pics of the unpainted subframe, control arms and machined aluminum spindles. Subframe is about 20lbs lighter and control arms are mounted by spherical bushings on all sides. Results have been no toe walk, dead straight acceleration at big power and predictability at the limit of grip. I big improvement over a stock setup.
I want one
34764
 

Lndshrk Steve

Well-Known Member
Car Setup for SCCA Chasing the Dragon Hillclimb 2022 7/31/22
Engine:
2.1 LSJ Ecotec
2.4 ZZP Girdled Block
2.4 JE Pistons
2.0 Carrillo Rods
Stock 2.0 Crank
OTTP Balance Shaft delete kit
Category V Port Worx Head porting
ZZP reverse split turbo cams
ZZP 82# valve springs/Titanium retainers
Oem Intake/Exhaust valves
Oem rockers
ARP head studs
Oem LSJ head gasket
ARP timing chain guide bolts
ATI underdrive harmonic balancer
ARE Custom Drysump System w/ 2 gallon reservoir
S257 turbo
ZZP turbo header
Tial wastegate
modified saab 9-3 turbo intake
ZZP high voltage Coils

Fuel System:
E85
OTTP Fuel Lab BRFPS
ID1000cc Injectors
300l summit fuel pump with canister in tank
1/2 gallon surge tank
MagnaFuel 425 Inline fuel pump after surge tank
pumps wired to seperate relays
inline screen filters before surge tank and after inline pump
8an feed lines
6an return lines

Drivetrain:
F23 5 speed
FX500 Clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
team green diff insert (dont recommend at all, itll make you spin out of corners on throttle)
zzp stage 1 axles
DF new subframe, control arms & spindles (Amazing btw***)
DF direct link shifter

Chassis:
Nine Lives Racing 48 inch Front Wing with dual element 10 degrees, 69 inch rear wing 15 degrees
400lb front springs 500lb rear springs (spring setup was too stiff for the bumps at the event)

Brakes:
Wilwood pedal box 3/4 bore master cylinders
stock pads

Setup:
wastegate 15psi @400whp
1/8 toe in at front
0 toe in rear
-.5 front camber
-3 rear camber
275/35/15 Nankang AR-1s on 15x10 wheel
18psi cold front
19psi cold rear

Notes:
Car was push/loose at beginning of run then after a few corners just became loose after tires received a little heat. Bumps were very aggressive causing rear tires to leave pavement, needs softer spring rate. Rear wing needs higher mounting position or dual element installed, not enough rear downforce.

Event Results:
P1 in Special Open
P2 overall with a 112.379
2nd Fastest time of the events history
Nice videos. And congrats on a great day, you kept it out of the trees! Courses on streets are tough. Different surfaces offer different grip and they are always bumpy. Also, they usually have a crown so as you cross over the center line you go from a SURFACE of positive (good) camber to negative (bad) camber. That will make the car feel very unstable and different in the same corner.
When setting up formula cars we usually set the suspension for oversteer in the slow corners to help point the car. Then you use the wings to set up understeer in the faster corners. You don't want to play pitch and catch at 100+ mph.
So when checking out a track, especially a street course, look for the camber. If a "wrong" line will get you 3 degrees of positive instead of 3 degrees negative, take it.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Nice videos. And congrats on a great day, you kept it out of the trees! Courses on streets are tough. Different surfaces offer different grip and they are always bumpy. Also, they usually have a crown so as you cross over the center line you go from a SURFACE of positive (good) camber to negative (bad) camber. That will make the car feel very unstable and different in the same corner.
When setting up formula cars we usually set the suspension for oversteer in the slow corners to help point the car. Then you use the wings to set up understeer in the faster corners. You don't want to play pitch and catch at 100+ mph.
So when checking out a track, especially a street course, look for the camber. If a "wrong" line will get you 3 degrees of positive instead of 3 degrees negative, take it.
exactly. So many imperfections of public road makes things difficult. Not to mention, although it’s a closed course, it’s not like a track that has runoff and cushioned barriers.
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I drove The Dragon like and old lady on a HD RoadKing a few years back, mostly because a year earlier my coworkers 20 year old son went over the side in one of the turns and lost a leg :(

.
 

Justinreed7

I like anything that goes fast
Nice videos. And congrats on a great day, you kept it out of the trees! Courses on streets are tough. Different surfaces offer different grip and they are always bumpy. Also, they usually have a crown so as you cross over the center line you go from a SURFACE of positive (good) camber to negative (bad) camber. That will make the car feel very unstable and different in the same corner.
When setting up formula cars we usually set the suspension for oversteer in the slow corners to help point the car. Then you use the wings to set up understeer in the faster corners. You don't want to play pitch and catch at 100+ mph.
So when checking out a track, especially a street course, look for the camber. If a "wrong" line will get you 3 degrees of positive instead of 3 degrees negative, take it.
That’s good info, thanks!
 
I love love love your videos and usage of the car pretty much what I do with my fun cars.
I have a C5 and didn't know that consumables are so ridiculous, makes me want a goblin.
Thanks for the updates and that subframe looks amazing.
What class are you in for Gridlife btw?
 
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