Justin's City Goblin - 08 LS donor

[jFritzies]

So are you still going to turbo it? You drove it around at 155hp and said "she's QUICK," but also you want to double (more or less) the horsepower? Sounds just like me

What are those wheels and tires?

Always more power I may sound crazy but I’ve been seriously thinking about once this goblin is all done, selling it for hopefully what I put into it (parts wise) and then building another but with an SS donor this time. Ohhhh decisionsss decisionsss...

The wheels are Konig Ampliforms. 17x9 up front with Nitto NT05 255/40/17 and 18x10 in the rear with Nitto NT 555 G2 285/35/18. I probably have ~1/4” of clearance with the factory cobalt rear struts with this setup
Good thing I went with 285 wide instead of 295 last minute or else I’d be shopping for some spacers

 

[Rauq]

I'd never discourage another build but don't think you need to start with an SS to make more power. The LNF makes more power stock than any other Cobalt motor but you don't need direct injection to get into stupid power levels, and the fueling system on a stupid power level port fuel injection is probably cheaper than direct injection anyway. The Cobalt folks regard the F23 base model trans as a more stout unit as well. If you want to get into the price levels of building a motor, that's one thing, but factory 2.0 short blocks, whether LSJ, LNF, LDK, etc., have held over 500 whp for non-negligible lengths of time (although not indefinitely), and they should be fairly direct swaps (except for the LSJ block, crank sensor incompatibilities).

 

[jFritzies]

I'd never discourage another build but don't think you need to start with an SS to make more power. The LNF makes more power stock than any other Cobalt motor but you don't need direct injection to get into stupid power levels, and the fueling system on a stupid power level port fuel injection is probably cheaper than direct injection anyway. The Cobalt folks regard the F23 base model trans as a more stout unit as well. If you want to get into the price levels of building a motor, that's one thing, but factory 2.0 short blocks, whether LSJ, LNF, LDK, etc., have held over 500 whp for non-negligible lengths of time (although not indefinitely), and they should be fairly direct swaps (except for the LSJ block, crank sensor incompatibilities).

The possibilities are almost endless with the goblin and all the different motors. It is interesting how the F23 with the more “economy” base model cobalts are supposedly more stout than say an F35 from an SS. ZZP has a turbo kit for the 2.2 that is back in stock so I think I might slap that on eventually and probably go with stronger rods and pistons. I’ve heard the L61 block is good up to about 350ish whp. That being said, a high-200 whp L61 with upgraded internals should be easily do-able. Especially considering they can make 200-230 whp with around only 5psi. Man-o man I’m excited. Definitely will have to wait until next year to go down that route however. Still need to buy new seats and paint for the body panels. Then I can go down that road

 

[jFritzies]

Got a few things done today. Bolted in the seats so now they’re not just “sitting” in the slots, (was a bit sketchy on the first little drive). Installed the kick plate along with grip tape on most of the floorboard and then got the toe aligned. My angle finder will arrive Monday so I can adjust camber and caster. But as of right now she tracks perfectly down the road. Camber is definitely what needs to be addressed as it’s very aggressive negatively. Also love how she looks from the back with the 285 wide.

 

[jFritzies]

After aligning the whole car with my new angle finder I took some of the family for a quick drive down the street. All I have to say is, WOW. This thing is ridiculous with only 155hp! I can’t imagine what you SS donors experience. This this is stout and so much fun. I haven’t even experimented with cornering yet. I got a few pictures of her moving but I plan on making a compilation for YouTube eventually. Other than that I have a slightly stripped stud on the drivers front hub bearing, the video said 50ft pounds and I think it’s supposed to be around 35. Good thing is I have all original hubs from the donor I can swap into the drilled ones from DF I’m using. I’ll try and get that done tomorrow.

 

[Rauq]

What made you go with the different tires front and rear? Just different size availability for the different diameter wheels?

 

[jFritzies]

Originally I ordered all Nitto NT05’s (the ones on the front) in June. The rear kept being back ordered later and later and later and I couldn’t find them anywhere to buy them from and get them sooner so I canceled the rear and got Nitto G555 for the rear. I didn’t want to but it was what had to be done to get the **** thing on the road. At least they’re all the same brand

 

[jFritzies]

Test fitted the windshield and bracket today. Had to widen the mounting holes in the hood on both ends probably 1/8”

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Did you angle the windshield back a little? Looks like it's not 'stock' vertical.

 

[jFritzies]

I didn’t. I slightly bent the middle tab a bit so it sat flush with the hood. I think it just looks angled because of the way it’s sitting on the ground

 

[jFritzies]

SHES REGISTERED

 

[jFritzies]

 

[jFritzies]

Put about 100 miles on it so far. Ordered all the supplies to paint the hood and side panels yesterday. After that, all she needs is some corbeau’s. Then maybe a turbo later down the road

 

[jFritzies]

Went all out on some nice Corbeau RRS seats

 

[Vwsaabvt]

any reason you went with a 3 point harness over a 4?

 

[k.rollin]

I don't know if there's a good way to run those 3 point harnesses in our cars. The single shoulder belt mount is typically attached in the rear of the cabin, and the Goblin doesn't have a suitable area for that arrangement.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I don't know if there's a good way to run those 3 point harnesses in our cars. The single shoulder belt mount is typically attached in the rear of the cabin, and the Goblin doesn't have a suitable area for that arrangement.

Break out the welder and that can be remedied.

 

[jFritzies]

any reason you went with a 3 point harness over a 4?

Looking at the difference between the 3 and 4, the 4 just requires an additional spot to mount behind the seat. With the 3 being slightly cheaper it was a no brainer for me. I don’t want to deal with 5 points either because I’ll mostly just be driving it on backroads.

 

[k.rollin]

Break out the welder and that can be remedied.

So what's the plan, add a tab to the rearmost horizontal tube and route the third mount over the top of the engine?

 

[k.rollin]

Looking at the difference between the 3 and 4, the 4 just requires an additional spot to mount behind the seat. With the 3 being slightly cheaper it was a no brainer for me. I don’t want to deal with 5 points either because I’ll mostly just be driving it on backroads.

The shoulder belts of the four point would just wrap around the harness bar...