Kingchuck's (and friends) Street Goblin #435 - 06 LT Manual (Aftermarket Supercharger)

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I used the half turn in, quarter turn out method and cleaned my A-arm threads without incident. I had one that got tight even on the half-turn, so I worked it back and forth slowly to get through the rough spot.

If you are breaking taps of that size on existing threads it is user error. You are definitely going too fast, too hard, or not backing it out/clearing debris out at all.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Here are the part numbers for the missing brake switch, and the brake pedal retainer and a squishy washer that helps line up everything. The retainer for the clutch master line, isn’t serviceable. You may find it aftermarket though.
A3ADC1A2-5E62-45AF-A91F-33A679931D9F.jpeg
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Here are the part numbers for the missing brake switch, and the brake pedal retainer and a squishy washer that helps line up everything. The retainer for the clutch master line, isn’t serviceable. You may find it aftermarket though.
View attachment 35948
Wow thanks so much! This is extremely useful, I will go ahead and order those now!
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
10/3/2022
Day 7
Hours Worked: 1
Hours: 27


Didn't go to school today as I was feeling pretty out of it and had a bad headache but since the garage wasn't a screen I thought dong a little work wouldn't hurt.

The only thing I did was partially install the brake reservoir relocation kit:
35967

I didn't tighten down the brass fittings very much because I couldn't find my teflon tape to wrap them with so I will do that when I find it.

Questions:
Where does this attach and what is it used for:
35968


I don't think df gave me enough tubing to reach from both ends of the relocation kit. I used the other 4 feet of this for the fuel line thing:
35969

Where do I order more? I looked online and found a few different results from what was marked on the actual tubing but I wasn't sure if they were the right thing. Should I email DF and ask for some more tubing or am I doing something wrong?

Is this the vacuum port for the brake booster line?
35970

The line seems to fit over it decently well just not sure if thats the right one.

Summary:
Work is getting there just like last post. I had to order some new things for tapping. I think most of you that commented on my tapping technique were correct, I was likely far to harsh with the tapping. That should arrive on Wednesday and work can continue on the front suspension. Apparently our powder coated things should be done this weekend which is great because then we can finish up the front suspension and front brakes completely and just have the rear end to do. Also once we have that stuff we can finally put the engine in and connect everything up. That would just leave the rear suspension and brakes until it is drivable from my understanding. Obviously we still need the wiring harness which will hopefully come soon but I think we are in pretty good shape to have it finished up before it becomes extremely cold.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I was also short brake line. I called DF and they shipped out more. It’s hard to tell if that nipple is the vacuum port or the emissions stuff.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Is that nipple in the valve cover or the intake? Brake should go to the intake where it will see vacuum after the throttle is closed. Of course yours is a a Frankenstein so may not be as simple.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Is that nipple in the valve cover or the intake? Brake should go to the intake where it will see vacuum after the throttle is closed. Of course yours is a a Frankenstein so may not be as simple.
That is right after the throttle body and right near the intake. I think its the right place.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
10/3/2022
Day 7
Hours Worked: 12
Hours: 39


Engine is in! Sort of... It is bolted in with 2 bolts on both sides but I am not sure if they are the correct bolts so I will add a picture for that below. We got all of the parts back from powder coating, again, and they look great. We spent about 2 hours today rubbing the threads of the adjustment perches with acetone because some powder coat got in the but now the rear shocks are assembled and look really good. I also had a major issue with one of the upper control arms for the front of the car and a heim bolt got stuck inside of it and I have to order a new one from DF. Hopefully it arrives soon. We also put the seat and the harness inside of the car just to see what it looks like and I love it, all the colors match and it's really turning into something now.

Here is the (oversimplified) list of everything to do. Mostly just the major systems that need to be finished up before it is drivable:
Plumb the engine
- Coolant lines and reservoir
- Vacuum lines
- Intake
Front suspension
- Upper and lower control arms
- Hubs
- Brakes
Rear Suspension
- Install subframe
- Attach control arms
- Attach coil overs
- Attach hubs
Wiring
- Connect EVERYTHING
- Likely find that the frankensteined supercharged donor will need some rewiring
- Fix no power issues
- Fix no start issues
(I would be extremely surprised if both of those things don't happen)
Registration
- Going to make an appointment at the DMV and get it registered. Apparently in MN it is very easy
Misc
- I am sure there are things I am forgetting and things that need to be done

Currently no update on the wiring harness, really hoping we get it soon fingers crossed. Kind of disappointing that we have had to wait this long and if we had known this we might have done the harness ourselves. We also would have learned a lot but I suppose that is all in hindsight.

Questions:

Are these the correct bolts for the engine mount? I feel like they aren't:
36376

36377


Do I need to use the transmission mount spacers? The engine seems to mount without them.

Here is the thread that has a lot of my other questions.

Summary:
I have had some more stuff going on and honestly the engine is very intimidating and I don't really want to screw anything up so doing stuff around it does not give me that much confidence. I am struggling a little bit with motivation right now just due to this but today was a good day because we got the rear coil overs which look really cool. Honestly this whole project is made much easier by smaller tasks being completed out of a much larger thing. Hopefully soon we will get that harness and we can really start making some good progress!
 

RCK605

Well-Known Member
Just like eating an elephant...one bite at a time!

Did your donor run and drive before disassembly? If so, I wouldn't get too hung up on mounting the engine and connecting everything. There isn't anything that should cause immediate catastrophic failure of the engine, so as long as everything is put back where it should be it should fire up for you. If not, that's what the forum is for!
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
There’s several bolt patterns on the chassis mounts. Use the ones that line up when the engine is straight. Seems like mine has two bolts in one side and three in the other.

You’re definitely looking at the project the right way. It’s just a list of tasks. Do a couple today, and a couple tomorrow, then a few more the following day and you’ll have a completed toy in no time
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. I am pretty sure that I got the actual bolt pattern correct but I am unsure if those are the correct bolts. I know they are supposed to be seatbelt bolts but I can't tell and was wondering if anyone was able to identify them
 

Mahkoi

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. I am pretty sure that I got the actual bolt pattern correct but I am unsure if those are the correct bolts. I know they are supposed to be seatbelt bolts but I can't tell and was wondering if anyone was able to identify them
For the passenger/ engine side I didn't have the seat belt bolts because my donor had the seats pulled already before I got it. I just spun a thread chaser the on donor mount bolts for the engine then cut 6 threads off (i think it was 6, its been a while), tapered the edge on the bench grinder and removed the chaser to clean up the threads. I don't remember which bolts I used for the trans side.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
For the passenger/ engine side I didn't have the seat belt bolts because my donor had the seats pulled already before I got it. I just spun a thread chaser the on donor mount bolts for the engine then cut 6 threads off (i think it was 6, its been a while), tapered the edge on the bench grinder and removed the chaser to clean up the threads. I don't remember which bolts I used for the trans side.
Sounds like quite a bit of work. I may just end up ordering some seat mount bolts.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
10/13/2022
Day 8
Hours Worked: 3
Total Hours: 42


Today was a fairly calm day and most of it was spent out of the garage. The adjustment perches that were received from powder coating needed to be cleaned up or they wouldn't go on the threads so I cleaned the rest of them up and assembled both BC coilovers. I was also able to assemble one of the QA1 front coilovers which was a pain because the bearing tolerances were terrible and it require a lot of small sanding and hammering and heat to get them in. We actually broke one of the bearings on the second shock and had to order an entire new set of 4 just to get the one. Once that arrives the coilovers should be complete. I also reassembled the brakes which took me quite a while. Everything looks very cool in the illusion blue so I am very excited to put some of these things on the car.

I started looking through the engine harness and was trying to decipher if anything needed to be plugged in or changed and there seem to only be three connectors that need to be plugged in. First was the fuel pump one which I didn't plug in yet assuming that I will need to do a bunch of stuff around there so I thought to wait. The second one was a 2 pin connector that I have no idea what it did. I originally thought that it went into the heat exchanger pump but it seems like it does not fit. The third was the O2 sensor connected to the downpipe of the donor. It is still locked on to the downpipe and I have tried everything I can think of to remove it. I first tried to just get it off with a normal wrench and no luck, I then tried a o2 sensor socket and no luck, I then brought it to my vice and no luck. Maybe I will try some heat and see if that works.

Questions:
How do I remove the clutch adapter from the donor clutch line?

Should I do all of the fluids in the engine first before I add in the subframe and put the rear suspension on?

Due to the fact that I am not doing my wiring harness and the donor is a frankenstein car, do you think the harness will be a plug and play sort of thing or do you think I will have to do some wiring myself. Basically what things might be different on my car? The only thing I can think of is the heat exchanger pump which still confuses me. I know that's a loaded question and I am assuming none of you will really have an answer to that.

Summary:
Got some good and relaxing work done today. Hopefully tomorrow I can do all of the plumbing of the engine fluids and finish that up. From what I can see from it I know where everything leads to and how to do it, it is just a matter of cutting some coolant lines and running them to the correct spot. Still no update on the wiring harness. I think I might call tomorrow, I just feel a little bad for calling Lonny so often and bugging him about it but from our original estimate we thought it would be done middle to late September. I also ordered the new front upper control arm which will go straight to powder coating when we receive it that we way can basically finish up the front end.
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
We don't have to mess with the engine harness when building a Goblin. The build instructions just involve the dash and body harnesses. If your donor ran before you stripped it, then it should work when you reassemble it in the Goblin chassis.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
We don't have to mess with the engine harness when building a Goblin. The build instructions just involve the dash and body harnesses. If your donor ran before you stripped it, then it should work when you reassemble it in the Goblin chassis.
The only thing I messed with before it ran on the engine harness was the A/C wire delete. I ended up keeping a wire that was recommended to turn into a HP Tuners AFR link thingy somehow. After it was running and I had to pull the engine due to the TOB/Clutch being trash I got rid of two brown/red coolant fan wires that were left over from being a Cobalt.
36387


The only fluids you 'have' to have in is the engine oil to do a quick first start. Anything longer than a couple minutes you'll want to have coolant(s) and trans fluid in.
Cheat Sheet: make the engine coolant and heat exchanger coolant two different colors so when (not if) you have a leak you can tell what system it's coming from. I have Dex orange in the engine and I think normal green in my heat exchanger loop. I used this for transmission fluid, order 3 quarts:

For the clutch line, I'm not completely sure what your asking. I think it's about the goofy clip you have to remove to get the clutch line out of the adapter? That clip has to come completely out (or it did for me).
 
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Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I also ordered the new front upper control arm which will go straight to powder coating when we receive it that we way can basically finish up the front end.
I suggest chasing the threads on the new UCA and putting a bolt in there before sending it for powder. This way, if you jack up the threads again you didn't waste time/money on powder and you know once it's back from powder it's ready for install.
 
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