Kingchuck's (and friends) Street Goblin #435 - 06 LT Manual (Aftermarket Supercharger)

Goblinfanclub1234

Well-Known Member
I got various hardware from lowes and home depot but only the zinc coated grade 8 stuff for anything that needs the extra strength *very important* lol seat brackets bolts for one example of this.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, I am super excited to be back! I live in Minnesota and this winter was pretty harsh with lots of other things to do so the goblin which is in a non heated garage did not get any love. But this last week it has been warming up and it has been in the 50's with our first 80 degree day coming this Wednesday(hopefully)! We have gotten some things done within the last week like putting a couple of rivets into the shifter to get it locked in to place as well as re-attempting to bleed the brakes and connecting the brake lights.

The major to-do list sits with these items:
Rewire the BCM power plug (an electrical fire burned the connector unfortunately) Quick question here the connector says its a PEC 2 connector but I have looked on rock auto and just the open internet and have found nothing similar, I need to replace the female side of it. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.
39563

Finish bolting seats and harnesses in

Wire in mirrors and rear brake light (will do fronts after the first drive)

Wire in radiator fan and heat exchanger fan

Wire in dash buttons

Replace threads on rear passenger side brake caliper (Overturned the banjo bolt on the caliper and the threads broke so I cannot tighten to seal it and the brakes cannot work)

Bleed brakes and Clutch (A little confused on how to do the clutch, we attempted it but it did not work. I bleed it like I was bleeding the brakes)

There is probably a couple that I am not thinking of but I have it all written down.


Here is a photo of the car out in the sun with the hood mocked up on it:
39564


I will probably be more active on the forums now as well as we are trying to get the car ready for a May 1st track day. Once again great to be back!
 

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KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
It might be possible to reuse it, I would have to do a pretty good job soldering it on and make sure its all good but I can try. To me it looks like a normal connector with nothing special so could I just swap it for a different general type of connector. My other idea was just hard-wiring it but then I wouldn't be able to disconnect it.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
It might be possible to reuse it, I would have to do a pretty good job soldering it on and make sure its all good but I can try. To me it looks like a normal connector with nothing special so could I just swap it for a different general type of connector. My other idea was just hard-wiring it but then I wouldn't be able to disconnect it.
Yeah...dont hardwire it. Random connector could work if youve got both sides as long as it matches up the wires right.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
It was around 70 degrees the last two days which was really nice weather to work on the car so we got some good work done.

Wired in the brake lights, rewired the BCM power cord to the old connecter and it ended up working fine, car now starts, blead the clutch and I think it actually worked this time, ordered a new rear caliper which is coming friday.

Once we have the caliper and finally bleed the brakes to a working state the car should hopefully be moving, fingers crossed.

Still on the to-do:
Fix the shifter, it isn't shifting to first
Tighten engine mounts
ensure no leaks in the coolant system (pretty sure there are leaks)
Reroute shifter cables (currently they are touching the ground)
Wire in the fans
Wire in mirrors and headlights


More on the list as per usual just minor things though.
Still need to register and insure the car which I have procrastinated, going to make an appointment soon.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
The past two days have been pretty great as the temperature has remained in the 70s and even into the 80s. Yesterday afternoon was a huge accomplishment as we got the car to roll under its own power. We only rolled it a couple feet because the brakes arent working but the new caliper just arrived so hoping to get those working tonight and start doing some neighborhood testing. We completely finished the lights all around the car which also took a little bit but wasn't to hard.

Currently we are having an issue with first gear where you have to hold the shifter all of the way in first and really press it in for it to engage. If not it will slip out and grid the gears. Second works fine and it also goes into third so from my understanding of how the length of the shift cables work it shouldn't be those. Just to be sure I tested a bunch of different combinations of lengths and the issue persisted.

I tried going onto the DMV website today to book an appointment for kit car registration. Unfortunately, nothing in the next 30 days but they say slots can open up, just not sure when the best time to go on the website is. They also do walk-ins but only if they have time which if they are completely booked on the website I am not sure if they would have the time for that. I tried calling but I was on hold for 30 minutes before I had to go somewhere so I will try again on Monday. Just hoping I can get a time sooner than a month from now.

For where the harness attaches to the tunnel I couldn't seem to find a bolt that fits. M12 seems to large to fit into it and M10 is to small to engage the threads. Are the threads imperial?

Still have a couple of coolant leaks that I need to fix which shouldn't take too long.

List of things:
Wire in fans
Wire in dash buttons
Wire in heat exchanger pump (might have some issues with this)
Get brakes working fully
Get shifter working fully
Get the proper bolt for where the harness attaches to the tunnel
Bolt in front engine brace
Get proper bolt for subframe attachment into the frame
Finish routing all wires
Get car registered and insured
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Assuming you're running Corbeaus, I believe they're supposed to include some special 7/16-20 shoulder bolts for the harness to frame connections. DF had to get them from Corbeau for me.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Most of the bolts supplied by DF are Standard/Inch as well as most of the welded in nuts. I don't remember that one in particular.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Most of the bolts supplied by DF are Standard/Inch as well as most of the welded in nuts. I don't remember that one in particular.
Sorry I was thinking a wiring harness attachment. I used the donor seat belt bolts for my safety harness and it is an odd size like Rauq said.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
For your not staying in 1st gear issue, check the clearance of the weight on the shift arm at the transmission to the frame mount. Belive I remember seeing someone had interference and the shift arm would not fully engage. Otherwise, the cable throw for the fore/aft movement is not correct yet.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
For your not staying in 1st gear issue, check the clearance of the weight on the shift arm at the transmission to the frame mount. Belive I remember seeing someone had interference and the shift arm would not fully engage. Otherwise, the cable throw for the fore/aft movement is not correct yet.
See the third pic: http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/guide-f35-to-f23-with-lsd-transmission-swap.2502/post-49255

I just cut the counterweight completely off. It feels fine to me.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
This week has been a great week! finally got to a lot more testing and we are finally able to get on the throttle a little more which has raised a couple of issues.

We were able to wire in the dash buttons which is quite nice because now we don't have to plug in a obd reader to see what the coolant levels are. We also finished putting in both seats and harnesses as well as the firewall, we also fully bolted on the hood which looks super cool. Not everything has gone to plan though and here are some of the issues we are facing:

Rear driver-side brake line connection has a leak, it doesn't seem super major but I have tightened it so far down it is starting to strip which makes me think it is not seated correctly, going to try to reseat that. This has led to the brakes being mushy and today almost all of the brake pressure was lost that we had bled out before, bleeding has been quite difficult as we just can't seem to get all of the air out of the system but hopefully after the leak has been fixed it will bleed properly.

The car in both 1st and 2nd (which is the only gears we have been able to get into otherwise it will be too fast for the neighborhood) seems to cut the throttle sometimes when the pedal gets pressed down more than half and when it starts to really get some torque. I don't think that is normal and it could possibly be pulling timing from the heat exchanger pump not being hooked up but until that is connected I can't be sure.

We had a hole in the front radiator and it was peeing out coolant which was quite unfortunate, but we tried some K-seal. At first it didn't work and so I ended up order a new radiator and mounts for the fan. Today we did some more test driving and I think the coolant might have circulated even more and the K-seal was able to reach where it was leaking and now it has stopped leaking. The new radiator was quite expensive so I would like to return it but I also think it might be worth it to just replace it.

Other than that is is still a bunch of the stuff from the above list:
Wire in fans
Wire in heat exchanger pump (Figured out where the wires should go just need to wire it in)
Get brakes working fully
Bolt in front engine brace
Get proper bolt for subframe attachment into the frame
Get car registered and insured
Rivet on side panels
(Probably a couple more things as well)

I seemed to have misplaced my MCO which is an issue so I emailed DF and they will hopefully send me a new one via email. Once we get that it will be on to the DMV for registration and fingers crossed that everything will go well.

One note I have about the car is how crazy the supercharger whine is, it is so cool being able to hear it right behind your head while also having the wind right in your face. This car is truly a blast even when it's not at its full power.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
With the break leak. Loosen and tighten it several time. Most of us had that issue. It takes about 10 cycles to get it seated and sealed properly
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
One issue I also forgot to mention was when going to start the car it's possible to turn it to accessory power but when trying to crank the car everything just powers down and the dash turns off. It is not possible to turn on the accessory power after that. To mitigate this issue the battery needs to be disconnected and reconnected and it seems to work about 70% of the time but not all of the time. Not really sure what the issue is.
 
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