Kingchuck's (and friends) Street Goblin #435 - 06 LT Manual (Aftermarket Supercharger)

RCK605

Well-Known Member
Maybe I'm not seeing them or you added them later, but I highly recommend labeling every connector on your harness. I bought an already disassembled donor and the harness was not labeled. Luckily Ross was able to send me videos identifying all of the connections. Without it, the wiring harness work would be much more difficult.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Maybe I'm not seeing them or you added them later, but I highly recommend labeling every connector on your harness. I bought an already disassembled donor and the harness was not labeled. Luckily Ross was able to send me videos identifying all of the connections. Without it, the wiring harness work would be much more difficult.
We decided to opt for the wiring harness service, do you still think it is necessary to label them. We already have many of them disconnected so going back through might take a little while.
 

RCK605

Well-Known Member
We decided to opt for the wiring harness service, do you still think it is necessary to label them. We already have many of them disconnected so going back through might take a little while.
Probably not if DF is handling the wiring harness. They can probably do it with their eyes closed by now.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,

It has been a while since the last post mostly because I just haven’t updated the forum we actually have gotten a lot done.

First off we stripped the entire interior and dropped the engine which both ended up being fairly easy.

We dropped the engine by dropped the entire care onto a dolly then unscrewed the engine mounts and lowered the car further so that the engine put all of its weight on the dolly. We then proceeded roll it out the front of the engine bay and it was finally out.

The interior was pretty easy and was just unscrewing and ripping pieces off. Took about a day and the only issue we encountered was that both of the upper seat belt mounting bolts got stripped and we had to cut them off. Do we need those?

I am currently on a trip but the others were able to get the wiring harness out or the car as well as out of the dash and ship it to df to get reworked.

We also started to receive some other things in relation to the goblin like the wheels and wing.

Avid1 AV6 with Toyo R888R:

9Lives racing wing:

Also my friends said they saw kit #206 in the wild today which I thought I would add if maybe the owner sees this.

We also are thinking we are going to use adrenaline customs for our powder coating. If anyone thinks there is a better service in Minneapolis please let us know. They estimated 1300 for the frame to be coated in illusion blue which from what I have seen from others seems a little high. They also said there is about a 2-3 week long lead time for when they can get us a slot which was faster than another place we called.

Other than that we are kit 435 and 429 just got delivered so hopefully we are soon. Still have not gotten an invoice though.

Another question I have for anyone who knows the answer is that our car did not have a ecm in it and it didnt seem like any wires were missing. Our boost is controlled by a little valve that we can spin to turn it up or down. This leads me to believe that the car may not be tunable? I am not sure though but any insight would be helpful.

Finally not sure why but my emails with df haven’t been getting any response. I sent an email about a week and a half ago which got no response and then a follow up about 4 days ago and no response. Has anyone else had an issue? Before this I have gotten a response within 24 hours every time (besides weekends).

That looks like it’s it for today and there probably won’t be another post for a little while. All that is left to do is to strip the rear and prep the engine. (Couldn’t attach images, will attach later)
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
If it's fuel injected and still coil on plug, it has to have an ecm of some sort, although it might be aftermarket. Did your donor run?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
The stock ecm should have been mounted on the side of the under hood fuse box. People have been known to relocate them on some cars to make the underhood look cleaner. Typically they would relocated the fuse box also and it looks like yours is still there in the pictures.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
The stock ecm should have been mounted on the side of the under hood fuse box. People have been known to relocate them on some cars to make the underhood look cleaner. Typically they would relocated the fuse box also and it looks like yours is still there in the pictures.
I think I figured out my mistake. In the video they took out 2 control modules and the one on top of the side slot for them was the ecm, we have a manual car so what I assume is we have no tcm. I then thought that since we only had the one on the bottom that meant we had the tcm and not the ecm when in reality we had enough the ecm and not the tcm.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
As for DF and emails, I know they have been really busy shipping out online orders and they may have an absence in the office but they will get to it I'm sure. Was it a question that could be answered on the forum or an order?
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
As for DF and emails, I know they have been really busy shipping out online orders and they may have an absence in the office but they will get to it I'm sure. Was it a question that could be answered on the forum or an order?
It was for an order concerning a bunch of different things. I was going to call today because it has now been over 2 weeks and some of the info pertains to the seats and we need to know if we will order different seats than the one df offers.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Many builders have ordered and used seats from other sources - see the build logs. There are Cobalt compatible seat rails available that bolt in (may need some minor alterations to bolt holes) to the DF frame or you could fab up your own seat mounts. But know the DF seats and rails will fit, no modifications required.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
It was for an order concerning a bunch of different things. I was going to call today because it has now been over 2 weeks and some of the info pertains to the seats and we need to know if we will order different seats than the one df offers.
I know Lonny was unavailable so Adam was manning tech and order support by himself. There was a post earlier this week showing a bunch of boxes ready to ship.

 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Got the kit delivered today! (with a minor (possibly major?) hiccup). I had Jeff from Stewart Transport drop it off in a parking lot and put it on my trailer and we drove it home:
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The hiccup we had was that while picking the kit up one of the straps snapped and the kit landed back down into the truck. Luckily it was probably only 1 to 2 feet high and we inspected for damage and didn't find any. My only worry would be that there are some very precise things that got thrown off slightly which might be an issue for us later. The kit was pretty nose heavy so it hit its nose first and then hit its rear. Really hoping this wont be an issue.

We are going to ensure the packing list is all correct tonight and hopefully drive it to Mankato tomorrow to be powder coated. They only do steel powder coating so we will have to find another place that does other things like the cast iron calipers and some of the aluminum parts like the wing.
 
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Rauq

Goblin Guru
The only things I can imagine that might've been damaged in a drop are fiberglass or sheet aluminum. Everything else from my kit was incredibly well packed. I wouldn't worry about it. Looks good!
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Straight edge the bottom tube on the chassis, that will determine if anything is bent. Should be flat to within about 3/16ish inch front to back and both sides should be nearly identical.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
BIG UPDATE:

So I haven't posted in a while but there is a lot of things that have happened since last post!

Frame got powder coated:
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I absolutely love the color, it actually looks that saturated in real life as well!

Once the frame was coated we couldn't do much because we were still waiting on the aluminum panels to be done but just yesterday those were completed. I spent today installing them and running the main coolant hoses through the frame! The aluminum panels werent too hard besides having the manually rivet which sucked but I got through it. Pulling the hose was an ordeal. The first hose I pulled snapped the actual hose so I had to yank it back out and re-attach it. The second hose stayed together but there was a lot more friction and the rope I was using snapped and almost hit my face, luckily I had thought about that and put my hand up and it hit my hand instead. It didn't hurt that bad but if it had hit my eye that would have been a bigger deal.

Some pictures of the things done today:
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We got a little excited to start working and prematurely installed the power steering unit.

Everything is looking good so far and next is the steering rack which I will try to do tonight.

On another note my wiring harness is still being rewired at DF and I have been trying to get an update on it. I emailed them 4 times over the past week with no response. I will try calling tomorrow.

Painted the donor parts:
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I liked what Robinjo was doing in terms of tracking the days and hours of his build so I thought I would just post my hours in bold. So far 5 Hours of work have been done.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I like that color a lot. Nice choice.

On the hoses, are you using the crank winch that is mentioned? Once I got the right hoses, used a lot of silicone spray and warmed up the hoses in the sun they pulled easily. I did have trouble until that combination. The first set I pulled in the heat of July went soooo easily. Heat is key!
 
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KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
I like that color a lot. Nice choice.

On the hoses, are you using the crank winch that is mentioned? Once I got the right hoses, used a lot of silicone spray and warmed up the hoses in the sun they pulled easily. I did have trouble until that combination. The first set I pulled in the heat of July went soooo easily. Heat is key!
I did not have heat but I was using the exact pulling tool mentioned. All except for the specific rope they used. I guess heat is the trick, it was probably around 60 degrees when I pulled mine through.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I did not have heat but I was using the exact pulling tool mentioned. All except for the specific rope they used. I guess heat is the trick, it was probably around 60 degrees when I pulled mine through.
After I let my replacement hoses warm up all day in the sun, they pulled much easier. I had a very hard time until I did that. I also sprayed silicone down the tubes from the rear, that helped some.
 

KingChuck24

Well-Known Member
Yesterday did not go all that smoothly, I was trying to install the steering rack but it seemed that the holes for the bolts were welded improperly and there was not enough space to get it in. I ended up having to mallet the bolts in with quite a big of force which seemed to work. Here is the thread detailing that: https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/kit-welded-incorrectly.3927/

I was able to install the pedal box easily and now it is onto trimming the clutch pedal and I think I will trim the starter at the same time just to tackle that as well.

I just got word that there are still two donor harnesses in front of mine which is really unfortunate because I was told that Lonny can do one per week and that puts us at October 18th if it was completed immediately which Lonny has not been doing one per week because there were 4 in front of mine about a month ago.

This leads me to the question of exactly how far I can go without the wiring harness. I have seen that a bunch of people have put the engine in, could I do the suspension and other things like that. Just don't want to sit on the goblin for a couple weeks to wait for the harness.
 
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