#403

LLBenJ

Active Member
DF Kit Car - Goblin #403 - Completed 04 July 2023 - Titled, registered and insured in the state of Idaho

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Donor


2006 Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged - 123k on the clock - purchased and driven for 3 months prior to disassembly to work out any issues.

Cost of the donor, plus shipping to Idaho, was $4,750.

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Kit - #403

The following full kit (all 3 stages) was ordered from DF on 09 December 2021. Full kit arrived by Stewart Transport on 05 July 2022.

- DF Goblin Stage 1
- Stage 1 SS/SC Upgrade
- Full Cage Option
- Roof Bars
- Billet Shifter Kit
- DF Goblin Stage 2
- Stage 2 SS/SC Upgrade
- Rear Coilover Kit
- DF Kit Car Steering Wheel Kit
- Hood Kit, Full Cage
- Duct Cut-Outs in Hood
- Windscreen Kit, Extended
- Footwell Cover Kit
- Side Panel Kit
- Engine Cover Kit, Non-TC
- Fender Package, Wide, with Coilovers
- Headlight Kit
- Mirror/Turn Signal Kit
- License Plate Mount Kit
- Taillight Kit
- Button Panel Set, Early Model
- Boost Gauge Mount
- Heat Exchanger Duct Kit
- Bumper Set, Street Version
- Wing Mount Kit Total: $14,790

- Stewart Transportation Total: $1,545

The following items/work were purchased, in addition to the kit, to complete the car. Some of this was preventative maintenance and much of it was personal preference to the get the performance, and aesthetics, I was shooting for with the build.

- Axle seals
- GM timing chain kit
- GM supercharger fluid
- GM steering shaft
- New battery
- Timing chain tensioner
- ECOTEC timing chain guide bolt
- ECOTEC water pump
- Fuel injector 0-rings
- ECOTEC fuel injector isolators
- MAP, MAF, TMAP and boost solenoid sensors
- Timing chain cover gasket
- Valve cover gasket
- Exhaust manifold hardware
- Starter
- Alternator
- LSJ harmonic balancer
- LSJ front main seal
- LSJ fuel filter
- LSJ oil pressure sensor
- LSJ supercharger bypass valve o-ring
- Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch
- Clutch clip
- Clutch pipe
- Hydraulic clutch elbow
- Fidanza aluminum flywheel
- Foreverfab V1 Goblin muffler with magnaflow resonator
- Edelbrock stainless steel braided brake lines
- Vibrant Performance AN to NPT brake adapter fittings
- New GM 5-100 front and rear hubs
- DF speed sensor caps
- DF SS/SC steering rack limiter kit
- DF SS/SC brake proportioning valve kit
- DF wiring service for main harness (fog lights, 12v acc plugs, side marker lights maintained)
- Badass Moto grab handles
- Autometer Phantom mechanical boost gauge
- Autometer Phantom Air/Fuel gauge
- 3D printed dual gauge pod w/light sensor mount
- Longacre steering wheel hook
- ZZP ECOTEC flywheel bolts
- ZZP ECOTEC pressure plate bolts
- ZZP LSJ bypass valve
- ZZP LSJ 1.0 PCM
- ZZP high output intercooler pump
- ZZP LSJ high voltage coil packs
- ZZP dual pass intercooler plate kit
- ZZP laminova core o-rings
- ZZP oil catch can
- ZZP shorty headers
- ZZP interference fit LSJ dipstick
- Highland Bronze powdercoat on steel/aluminum parts - JB Laser Boise, ID
- Motegi Racing MR147 17x8 bronze wheels
- Toyo Proxes R1R 235/45ZR-17 tires
- Black spline drive 5-lug wheel kit
- 3M White Carbon Fiber Wrap - hood, side panels and fenders - Wrap World Boise, ID
- NRG carbon fiber rear wing - 59in
- Planted technology seat mounts
- Fire exstinguisher
- Medical Kit
- Rear view mirror
- Suzuki GSX-R1000 mirrors with integrated marker/blinker
- LED headlight conversion
- Carbon fiber door seal protection film
- PefecTech third brake light
- MOOG control arms
- Lone Star Racing billet A-Arm brake line brackets
- Summit Racing 3 inch aluminum black textured air intake piping
- Summit Racing Stainless Works exhaust hangers
- K&N air filter
- Parking brake
- SPARCO seat sliders
- SPARCO universal seat mount hardware
- SPARCO 4-point seatbelts
- SPARCO Sprint seats
- SPARCO suede steering wheel with quick detach kit
- SPARCO shift knob
- NOAM NUT5-S V.2 sound system

TOTAL: ....a lot....

Build Log Video

UPDATES TO BUILD!

20 November 2023


- Winter project: pulled factory timing chain cover and replaced it with a new cover, oil pump, from ZZP
- Inspecting timing, timing chain, cams, guides, tensioner, valves, valve springs: looks good
- Considering Stage 3 upgrade for factory M62 supercharger or sourcing TVS 1320 supercharger
- Second compression test/check completed
-- Cylinder 1 - 210 psi
-- Cylinder 2 - 200 psi
-- Cylinder 3 - 210 psi
-- Cylinder 4 - 190 psi

19 February 2024

Harrop TVS 1320 supercharger installed.
- ZZP Stage 1 PCM update for new supercharger and fueling
- Siemens 60# injectors
- ZZP LSJ EV6 injector harness

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23 February 2024 - Throttle Works, Boise ID

First dyno run for the car on a Mustang Dyno. 249 rwhp and 192 ft-lbs torque. Car is running lean and pulling timing on the initial ZZP 1.0 tune. Plan is to purchase HP Tuners and dial the car in. I'm not chasing horsepower, and still on stock internals, so I'm hoping I can get it tuned in close to 300 rwhp. 60# injectors should still have some room and I'm running the factory 3.1" pully on the TVS. Turbo swap is the best option for these cars, if you want real HP and TQ returns, but I like my supercharger whine!

Dyno Run - #403

08-10 March 2024 - Boise Roadster Show - 1st Place in Class

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Attachments

Last edited:

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I'm not aware that things have changed since I got my kit (also an SS/SC donor) but you should be getting all new brakes. The front calipers and rotors are stock base model which are 1" smaller than SS/SC and the rear are the reworked Solstice parking brake caliper and rotor setup.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
You can pull the parking brake cables and tubes as a unit. and you definitely need both for the Goblin. One of mine was seized and a little heat and cutting the cable fixed it. Replacement cables are cheap on Rock Auto. Yours look like new compared to what I worked with so it shouldn't be too bad.

The manual shift cables can be disconnected on both ends. In the engine bay, a flat head screwdriver will pop them off with a simple twist. Some builders reported minor difficulty with them, but I didn't have any issues with a rust belt donor. They disconnect easily from the cabin side as well - may actually be more difficult than the connections under the hood.

You won't need the airbag module, but you might want to label it so that when you come across it later you remember what it is.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Looks like the nuts are all removed, so remove the clutch master, then the pedal will come loose.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
No don’t touch that. It’ll break and that’s a new set of problems. I circled the clutch master. YouTube it if need be, for removal.
25737ACF-244B-415E-9E90-44B5280CBCEB.jpeg
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Just be careful not to break the white clip when removing it from the pedal. It's not the easiest to remove but it does come out eventually.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Can’t see the inside well, but everyone misses pulling the Park brake cables and tubes, so don’t forget those.

Plus, I like to take the flex side of the fuel line, that goes to the engine off. This can be reused and cleans up the engine area vs the DF supplied line. Just personal preference. Doesn’t hurt to take it and toss it later if you don’t use it.
94950322-033B-4C88-BD5A-6C28AED80B90.jpeg
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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
New shoes came in today. Motegi Racing MR147 C7 in matte bronze wearing Toyo Proxes R1R 235/45ZR17s.

The chassis and other associated parts will be coated in Prismatic Powerder Highland Bronze which is a very close match.

View attachment 33248
Good tire choice.
I like the tire mounter put stickers on them for directional purposes. :)
 

Sparvy

Active Member
New shoes came in today. Motegi Racing MR147 C7 in matte bronze wearing Toyo Proxes R1R 235/45ZR17s.

The chassis and other associated parts will be coated in Prismatic Powerder Highland Bronze which is a very close match.

View attachment 33248
Nice color! I almost went with a similar bronze color but ended up with US Penny Vein instead.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
It gave its soul, so another could be born. rust in peace little buddy. :D







I think you forgot a part though.………:eek::D
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
On your manifold and supercharger, I recommend cleaning it up a bit and painting it. I cleaned up a second lower manifold up and now wish I’d cleaned/painted my own units. Cast Aluminum Duplicolor made it look factory new. Plus it’ll protect it from the weathering again. I’ll pull mine again at some point in the future and do it then.
For the upgrading, my opinion is get it running and then make changes. I’m in your shoes, I want the Stage 3 stuff (mine came with S2) and keep having to talk myself out of the S3 stuff until it fires. I would do the Phenolic Spacer though, since the blower/manifold are off.
 
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