Luke's City Frame Goblin '07 SS/SC Registered!!!!

lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, I have been looking at building a Goblin for over a year. I found a good donor last month and ordered the kit last week. I found a '07 SS/SC that nailed a deer for $1400.

I'm starting to make decent progress on tearing it apart. Just have to get the two rear subframe bolts out then I can drop that. I'm hoping to have the engine out this weekend.
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Did anyone else have trouble getting the two rear bolts out? My 500 ft-lb impact doesn't even phase them.
I am thinking of cutting the chassis off of the bolts if that is even possible.

Other than that it is coming apart very smoothly.
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
It's a '78 but the goblin should be able to out run it pretty well before I'm done. Also, I won't feel guilty about thrashing on the goblin.
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
lksohm said:
Did anyone else have trouble getting the two rear bolts out? My 500 ft-lb impact doesn't even phase them.
I am thinking of cutting the chassis off of the bolts if that is even possible.
Click to expand...
Yep! My right rear I ended up cutting a hole in the rail to get access to the nut and cage. It made about 2 turns and the cage twisted off the frame. I beat a wrench on the square nut and applied some heat. I just kept running it in and out small amounts with my impact until it came out.

Love the shop layout. The bar could be a bad thing for making progress
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
Karter, you can come over and I'll trade beer at the bar for any advice. Lol.

I'm in central Iowa. I haven't seen anyone else from Iowa post here yet so I'm kinda isolated.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
lksohm said:
Did anyone else have trouble getting the two rear bolts out? My 500 ft-lb impact doesn't even phase them.
I am thinking of cutting the chassis off of the bolts if that is even possible.
Click to expand...
It's pretty common that the bolts will seize to the LCA bushings back there. Mine did, I just put on a really long cheater bar and cranked until they broke. Not like you have to put a new one back in the body after all. It's kind of a pain to get them cut enough to remove the LCA from the subframe, but way easier when neither is attached to the car.
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
Tony said:
It's pretty common that the bolts will seize to the LCA bushings back there. Mine did, I just put on a really long cheater bar and cranked until they broke. Not like you have to put a new one back in the body after all. It's kind of a pain to get them cut enough to remove the LCA from the subframe, but way easier when neither is attached to the car.
Click to expand...
Do we reuse the subframe bolts in the goblin? I have spent a few more hours on them today with no progress.
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
An update from that last week or so.
I ended up spending a few hours every night for a week working soley on the two rear subframe bolts. I ended up dismounting the engine enough to get my welder on the nut of the passenger bolt and was able to break that bolt. The driver side, I ground the head off the bolt but it is still stuck on the frame. I was . so tired of dealing with these **** bolts that I skipped ahead.

I am now almost done stripping the interior.

I knew this car had a couple aftermarket performance parts when I bought it but I think it has the full stage 3 ZZP kit. It has a 2.9 pulley, wideband AFR sensor, double bypass heat exchanger, and the ECU has the person's name that I bought the car from (I believe it has been sent in to be tuned)
Have you guys had any experience with these parts?
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N

Nilbog

Well-Known Member
Nice finds! I need to rip the LC-1 out of my other car and see if i can use it with Hptuners MVPI2.
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
I’m not even sure what the wideband is for. Is it just a read out for human use or does it plug into the ECU as well? I know it gives a better look at the air fuel ratio is all.
This is the first non carbureted car that I have played with.
 
N

Nilbog

Well-Known Member
From what i remember, the stock O2 sensors have a voltage output range of around 1volt. The wideband O2 sensor has a 5 volt range so you can be more precise in measurements of F/A ratio. When tuning WOT the wideband is typically used, if you are tuning your own car (which is what i do) it helps to have a wideband unless you go to a dyno.

Assuming this to be the same, but your stock O2 sensors are used in a closed cycle feedback loop for all operation with the exception of startup (usually below around 100F coolant temp) and WOT. Usually startup and WOT are set numbers derived through tuning with a wideband or are factory preset. Or at least thats how i've approached it in the past.
 
Christopher Sanchez

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
It was common for these cobalts to send in your ecu to get them Flashed for 2.9 pulley tune it should also have 42 lbs injectors to go with it. My guess is it will also have an upgraded clutch cause the S/C versions would burn up stock clutches.
 
lksohm

lksohm

Well-Known Member
When I bought the car the seller said something about the clutch slipping. I have been trying to reach him to ask a few questions.
Does anyone have an opinion on what a good upgrades clutch would be? From what I’ve read, they are anything but created equal. I might as well do that while the engine is out.
 
SliderR1

SliderR1

Well-Known Member
I think a few of us have used the GMPP clutch kit. PN 19212712. Has worked great for mine so far.
 
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