Luke's City Frame Goblin '07 SS/SC Registered!!!!

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru
One more quick question. How hard should you have to push a caliper piston to get it to move?
I am having to use some pretty healthy taps with a 2lb hammer to move it in the caliper.
I am having the front passenger brake stick hard. I can pull the caliper off and use a clamp to retract the piston but as soon as the pedal is pressed it stays clamped to the rotor.
It is only with that wheel, the rest work fine.
I did powder coat the calipers and don't know if I messed something up doing that.
It should go in easy. Do you have new hoses or did you use your donor hoses? You can check to see if it is hose or caliper by opening the bleeder and seeing if it compresses easier. If it does, your brake hose is bad, if it is still hard with the bleeder open hte caliper is bad.
 

lksohm

Well-Known Member
It should go in easy. Do you have new hoses or did you use your donor hoses? You can check to see if it is hose or caliper by opening the bleeder and seeing if it compresses easier. If it does, your brake hose is bad, if it is still hard with the bleeder open hte caliper is bad.
The hoses I'm using are the rubber ones from DF.
I cracked the bleeder and the brake didn't release. I dug out the old donor calipers for comparison and the piston moves easier than the new one. Even with a solid 1/8" of rust crust. I'm afraid I warped something when coating the caliper.
Are these the same part as a base model cobalt?
My inspection is scheduled for Thursday and am really trying to not have to reschedule.

Thanks!
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
These are the lights I'm using.
I have the fuse box ripped apart looking for alternative brake light wires that only go on with the brakes.
I'll reassemble it all and document the exact symptoms.

It very well could be a ground issue. I only wired up one light for testing and didn't secure the ground permanently.
The headlights, blinkers, mirrors and parking lights work perfect without the brake wire plugged into the taillight.
How did those taillights work out? Where did you get them from?
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
How did those taillights work out? Where did you get them from?
Here's a link to some.
 

lksohm

Well-Known Member
How did those taillights work out? Where did you get them from?
I like them, they aren't as bright as I'd like but I think they look good. I had to add a diode in line with one of the wires. This was to stop feed back through the taillight. I can check tonight after work if you like.
 

lksohm

Well-Known Member
I figured I would share what I am doing in case it is helpful to anyone. The car would drip a few drops/day from the rear main seal. I figured I would tackle this while it is hibernating this winter.
20210123_130257.jpg


I was able to get the trans off without taking the engine out after removing the subframe and loosening the engine mount and supporting it with the Cobalt's scissor jack.
The new seal should get here tomorrow. I will see how much work it is to lift the trans back into position.
It would have been almost no extra effort to do this during cleanup/assembly but I didn't know it was needed. I talked myself into replacing the $56 flywheel torque to yield bolts as well. Good news is everything looks as good as I hoped in there. The clutch now has 1600 miles and looks as it did when installed.

Moral of the story. replace the $20 seal when you are already in there and it will save you big later.
 

lksohm

Well-Known Member
It will be a year ago tomorrow since my last addition to my build log. The tinkering has only accelerated though.

Today I picked up a subframe from a local part out so I can do some modifications. I didn't notice til I got it home that there are some differences.
This is the one from my '07 LSJ donor
20220123_183456.jpg

This is the one I picked up today.
20220123_183337.jpg

I forgot to ask what year or trim the frame is from. I am pretty sure it is a SS of some sort. Does anyone know if the LSJ and LNF subframes are different or interchangeable?
Thanks in advance!
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
I forgot to ask what year or trim the frame is from. I am pretty sure it is a SS of some sort. Does anyone know if the LSJ and LNF subframes are different or interchangeable?
Thanks in advance!
The one you picked up matches my 06 LSJ subframe.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The main difference is how the swaybar mounts to the subframe. The FE5 suspension has 2 bolts on each swaybar mount, where the lesser suspended models had a slot and a stud/bolt on each mount. Is that what you are looking at in the photos, the stud sticking up?
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
The main difference is how the swaybar mounts to the subframe. The FE5 suspension has 2 bolts on each swaybar mount, where the lesser suspended models had a slot and a stud/bolt on each mount. Is that what you are looking at in the photos, the stud sticking up?
Not all FE5 do that, it isn't that clearcut. I had FE5 suspension on my 06 donor that used 1 bolt with 1 tab.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Did it have the 21mm swaybar or the 24mm swaybar? All 24mm swaybars have the two bolts, the smaller swaybars were typically one bolt and the slot. This was changed in 08 (SS) due the additional torque applied to the swaybar mounts with the thicker bar.
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
Did it have the 21mm swaybar or the 24mm swaybar? All 24mm swaybars have the two bolts, the smaller swaybars were typically one bolt and the slot. This was changed in 08 (SS) due the additional torque applied to the swaybar mounts with the thicker bar.
I have a 24mm sway bar, all stock with the 1 bolt style. Chevy just wasn't consistent through the years, FE5 early vs later years had differences.
 

lksohm

Well-Known Member
I was referring to the welded plate on the back of the corners of the new to me frame. My donor frame is different.
I never did put a sway bar on my goblin but it would be nice to have the option to bolt the base model bar on the frame without changing anything.
 
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