Luke's City Frame Goblin '07 SS/SC Registered!!!!

[Waterdriver]

These are the lights I'm using.
I have the fuse box ripped apart looking for alternative brake light wires that only go on with the brakes.
I'll reassemble it all and document the exact symptoms.

It very well could be a ground issue. I only wired up one light for testing and didn't secure the ground permanently.
The headlights, blinkers, mirrors and parking lights work perfect without the brake wire plugged into the taillight.

I installed the same tailights.
Due to how the Cobalt used all red tail
lights (running, turn and brake) I had wired the outer amber lights as running and turn signal. Red is running light and brake.

This might be changing thanks to JSATX's idea I saw for his.

 

[lksohm]

Oh cool, I think they are a good looking light.

I found that I was getting feed back from the brake/turn wire into the running light wire through the taillights. This would cause the headlight at the opposite corner to have the running light flash with the blinker. I ended up fixing this by adding in a diode into the running light wire right before the tail light connection.

What was the idea that you are referring to?

 

[Waterdriver]

Good info to know as I dont have headlights installed yet.

As for the idea, kind of like JSATX did, to 3d print a tail light housing that contains a red LED strip lighting. This would be with my existing taillights.

 

[lksohm]

One quick question on wiring these dash buttons.
Where do the red and grey wires for the cruise control go? I have a wire the is labeled cruise control from following the wiring videos. I assume that this is one of the wires. Is the other a power wire?
I have the other buttons figured out. Just need help with cruise control.

Thanks in advance!

 

[lksohm]

If I understand this correctly, the red wire going to the first cruise control switch is 12V+ and the grey wire is the cruise control signal that goes to the ECM or BCM. Is that right?

Also, can I test this withe the key in the run position by looking at the dash readout. I don't have the coolant system done and don't want to run the engine very long.

 

[Lonny]

Have you wired in the resistors that control the cruise control circuit?
I think the cruise control will only engage at speeds above 35 mph.
Some cruise controls also will disengage if they detect the transmission doesn't have a load. So if it's on Jack stands it may not work.

 

[lksohm]

I have the resistors temporarily soldered in series and am applying voltage on the appropriate places as the switches would with no response from the guage read outs.

I am have a circuit board designed to simplify the controls and wanted to test it before I solder it all up.

If no response is expected with the engine off I'll probably take the small risk of wiring it up.

 

[lksohm]

What is the best way to tell if the engine is in time?

My engine is installed and starts fine but runs very rough and has backfired a few times. Sounds like things aren't lined up right. It also has a P0017 code. This code didn't show up til after starting it 5 or 6 times trying to diagnose the issue.

This is a crank/cam shaft position correlation code. The only thing I did to the timing was update to the latest tensioner. Is it possible that something got off by a tooth doing that?

 

[Ross]

Yes. My timing chain jumped when I took the tension off. Did that in a sub-second, I didn't notice, but my friend, who helped me, did.
Ended up removing the side plate, and re-setting the timing chain on the sprockets.

 

[lksohm]

Awesome. Shouldn't be too hard to remedy.

The colored links are pretty hard to tell. I may just do the timing set while I'm at it.

 

[lksohm]

Quick update: Making steady progress. I'm hoping to schedule the inspection soon.

Last night I attempted to bleed the brakes and clutch for the first time. Got the brakes bled fine but when I bled the clutch I had brake fluid running out of the bottom of my transmission. I replaced the throwout bearing and small tube in there when I replaced my clutch before I put everything together.
What could be leaking in there? If I do need to separate the engine and transmission, do I need to pull the subframe down and drop the drivetrain or is there a better way?

I was so close to my first drive!!

 

[Ross]

You have to drop the subframe to gain enough room to split the tranny from the engine.
That small tube also has a rubber O ring where it connects to the aluminum distribution block, which goes thru the bell housing.
You can pull the black plastic plug off the bell housing, and put a light in, watch with a camera, and see what is leaking.

 

[ctuinstra]

The same thing happen to us. Ross mentions an o-ring. It’s a rubber seal but not an o-ring. I made the mistake of putting an o-ring on there and it leaked. I had to buy a new short tube to get the actual rubber seal on the end of the tube. It’s an easy fix. Make sure you have one. The can stick on the inside of the aluminum block and later fall out.

 

[lksohm]

I replaced this "clutch pipe" when I had it all apart.
It the seal you are talking about the black ring in the picture near the bleeder or is it on the throwout bearing side?

 

[ctuinstra]

It’s on the black side.

 

[ctuinstra]

It’s on the black side.

When you pull off the aluminum block, you should see the black part of the pipe sticking up with the rubber seal on it. Look inside the aluminum block to see if by chance there is one stuck in there and you have two.

 

[lksohm]

Thanks guy! Hopefully that's what is going on. I'll check on this as soon as I get home tonight.

 

[Lonny]

If you find the rubber seal and start to put it back together, the first step is to install the seal over the end of the tube and then snap the aluminum block on.

 

[lksohm]

I got the bleeder block pulled off the trans tonight and sure enough, the seal from the old pipe was stuck in there.
I'll test it tomorrow night when I have a helper for bleeding the clutch.

You guys saved me from going down the rabbit hole of pulling everything back apart.

THANK YOU!!! I won't allow you to pay for any drinks next year's midwest meet.

 

[lksohm]

One more quick question. How hard should you have to push a caliper piston to get it to move?
I am having to use some pretty healthy taps with a 2lb hammer to move it in the caliper.
I am having the front passenger brake stick hard. I can pull the caliper off and use a clamp to retract the piston but as soon as the pedal is pressed it stays clamped to the rotor.
It is only with that wheel, the rest work fine.
I did powder coat the calipers and don't know if I messed something up doing that.