Manual Shifter Upgrade

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
So I just saw my first Goblin at the Rockwall car show last week. Really nice guy that showed up to talk to. And as usual the car just had to be setup with my favorite colors. In this thread you mentioned meet up. I am also new to this thread. Is the meet up info just given to owner's or is there info on this site to know when they are if we want to come see and learn more about the car. Thanks
Meet up stuff can normally be found here. What’s your location. Maybe there’s someone that can meet up with you personally. The Houston group is always willing to show others our goblins, even offer rides at autocross.

 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
am I understanding correctly I would need to replace my tunnel cap to install the new shifter? If so does the $250 for the shifter included the tunnel cap
 

dastrups

Well-Known Member
Just got done driving it for the first time since installing this. This is a MUST!!! Probably THE most noticeable upgrade that I have made. It’s actually made the car more fun and confidence inspiring to drive. I have never felt anything so direct and notchy. HUGE improvement from the upgraded billet shifter setup that I already had. Absolutely no guess work. The thing is telepathic. Hats off to the guys at DF. So impressed!
 

Attachments

socaljeff3798

Well-Known Member
Just got done driving it for the first time since installing this. This is a MUST!!! Probably THE most noticeable upgrade that I have made. It’s actually made the car more fun and confidence inspiring to drive. I have never felt anything so direct and notchy. HUGE improvement from the upgraded billet shifter setup that I already had. Absolutely no guess work. The thing is telepathic. Hats off to the guys at DF. So impressed!
I agree 100%.......I have put over 300 miles on mine since I installed it and it works so well I don't even think about it!!!
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Sounds like the group-buy shifter. When I upgraded to THAT guy, driving became effortless. I'm glad the official DF shifter is the same way!
 

YoungGun

Active Member
Trying to install mine. Followed instructional video to the T.. It's spongy/loose and not shifting into any gear.

The previous shifter had the shifter cables far more forward than the df shifter. When installing the df shifter, I wonder if pushing the cables back put too much of a curve in the shifter cable?

Am I missing something critical when installing this shifter?

I have confirmed that the driver side shifter cable is routed to the left bottom transmission. Right/top side going to passenger side.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if anybody else has had the problem I'm having in the photo (try to do a video, but can't upload it), and what the solution was. Basically it seems like a rivet is being used as the stop for the reverse lockout. Mine however, created a very rounded edge where the rivet popped through. The rounded edge sort of serves as a ramp for the reverse lockout, and doesn't stop it in the same place every time. Sometimes it just blows right by the rivet, and doesn't stop at all. Then the spring-loaded metal tang gets caught in the middle of the lockout, and jams everything up.

Anyone have a solution to make the rivet larger? I thought about putting a little weld bead on it, but I'm not sure if it's aluminum or not.
 

Attachments

SeanH

Member
I'm wondering if anybody else has had the problem I'm having in the photo (try to do a video, but can't upload it), and what the solution was. Basically it seems like a rivet is being used as the stop for the reverse lockout. Mine however, created a very rounded edge where the rivet popped through. The rounded edge sort of serves as a ramp for the reverse lockout, and doesn't stop it in the same place every time. Sometimes it just blows right by the rivet, and doesn't stop at all. Then the spring-loaded metal tang gets caught in the middle of the lockout, and jams everything up.

Anyone have a solution to make the rivet larger? I thought about putting a little weld bead on it, but I'm not sure if it's aluminum or not.
I had same problem. I drilled and re riveted. Filed the rivet tell it was just right
 

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
A rivet seems like an odd solution to this problem. Why not use a small bolt sticking up through the metal with a jam nut on it? Worried about it vibrating loose maybe?
 

SeanH

Member
A rivet seems like an odd solution to this problem. Why not use a small bolt sticking up through the metal with a jam nut on it? Worried about it vibrating loose maybe?
could tap the hole, red loctite a bolt up through the bottom. Either solution works
 

Whidbey Goblin

Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if anybody else has had the problem I'm having in the photo (try to do a video, but can't upload it), and what the solution was. Basically it seems like a rivet is being used as the stop for the reverse lockout. Mine however, created a very rounded edge where the rivet popped through. The rounded edge sort of serves as a ramp for the reverse lockout, and doesn't stop it in the same place every time. Sometimes it just blows right by the rivet, and doesn't stop at all. Then the spring-loaded metal tang gets caught in the middle of the lockout, and jams everything up.

Anyone have a solution to make the rivet larger? I thought about putting a little weld bead on it, but I'm not sure if it's aluminum or not.
I have the same issue. I adjust the tension on the bolt holding that all down occasionally.
 

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
Problem solved. I used a #10-24 1/2 inch sheet metal screw (had a blunt end though, Not a pointy one). The lockout now has a nice, tall, perpendicular surface to catch on. I had to use a single washer to space it down just a bit, otherwise the screw is a hair too tall. Drilling out the rivet was easy, tapping the hole is terrifying. I honestly hate tapping holes. There's a 50/50 chance my cheap taps are going to snap off, and then you're really in trouble.

Works much better now though.
 

Attachments

Top