Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina] [Registered] [Sold]

Ross

Goblin Guru
Spray some starter fluid down it's throat, or a squirt bottle with gas in it (a bit more dangerous, but it works).
If it starts, then it is fuel related.
If it does the same, then it is either mechanical (compression numbers?) or spark/timing related.
 

SACTX

Well-Known Member
Spray some starter fluid down it's throat, or a squirt bottle with gas in it (a bit more dangerous, but it works).
If it starts, then it is fuel related.
If it does the same, then it is either mechanical (compression numbers?) or spark/timing related.
thats it right there. Blow it up or nothing :).
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I am curious if there's something up with my wiring job I did. I am not noticing any peculiar DTCs and all my sensors are providing information and data through HPTuners and VXDiag. The only real DTC that's non evap/goblin related is my fuel level sending unit is showing high voltage (ref ground issue probably, same as the clutch high voltage issue - although its the same wire I'm no sure if there's a joint somewhere I may have cut) I don't suspect the car thinking it has 0% level fuel to keep it from trying to start... should it?

My focus now is on how my turn-signal light stalk only lets me turn the car on if it's not set to AUTO. Like, if it's set to AUTO, the whole BCM shuts down. I don't think data wires daisychain through the turn signal stalk, right?

Anyone else who did their own wiring run in to that issue? AUTO on my light stalk completely jacks up everything. I wonder if I messed up a wire and that's causing more issues down the line.

I've just test that if I plug in the white stalk harness but not the wide slim one, and keep it on non-auto, it lets me crank... so it's something with those 4 wires. Purple/White - Brown/White - White - Black/White. I'm looking through the wiring docs I have for their paths.

I have yet to test spark or fuel yet, I don't have any available starter fluid, I lent my last bottle to my in laws. I don't feel comfortable spraying gas up into anything for a multitude of reasons. I am solo-dadding this afternoon and working remotely from home so I don't expect to get into the garage much.

Also noted, I do not have my brake fluid level sensor hooked up because it was one of the connectors I messed up and when I thought I found the correct harness connector I reconnected it, but found out when installing the harness that I found the wrong plug. Also, my coolant level sensor is wired and plugged up but my dash is saying I have low coolant (its full)

@Ross I did a leak-down test the other day and all cylinders were at or under 12% which doesn't lead me to believe I have compression issues. I don't have a compression tester because leak-down is sort of similar and provides more information.

EDIT: Looking at this wiring diagram, there are two BCM wires that are brown/white... one goes to the light stalk and one is a GM data wire. I could have messed this up while doing my wiring... I need to pull this plug from the BCM and test continuiity between the turn signal stalk and both end points for the brown/white wires at the BCM.

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Anks329

Well-Known Member
My focus now is on how my turn-signal light stalk only lets me turn the car on if it's not set to AUTO. Like, if it's set to AUTO, the whole BCM shuts down. I don't think data wires daisychain through the turn signal stalk, right?
Auto lights should not impact the car starting. There are no data wires that are going through the turn signal. I've been trying to track down a data issue on the instrument panel, so I know there's no data in the signal stalk. Test that continuity that you're highlighting in the diagram.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Okay, so I tracked all the wires from the turn signal stalk to their correct locations on the BCM X2 plug and the Fuse Box C2 multiplug. Every wire checks out and has continuity. This puts a damper on my initial assumption of the wiring job I did being incorrect (because my turn signal set to AUTO disables the car) which is sorta good because my wiring harness doesn't appear to be incorrect.

Right now I'm sort of at a loss for where to go in regard to the Turn Signal -> Auto Disabling issue. I'm going to focus on other things such as checking spark, fuel, etc...
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Tonight's update is my wife tried to help me start the car while I watched the coil packs / plugs.

I have BradR's ignition switch replacement device that has the two-wire grounded start thing. I explained to my wife to hold the leads firmly against the ground of the battery etc etc.

The first time it looked like I wasn't getting any spark. The second time I think she was scared the ground of the battery was going to shock her so she only lightly touched the lead to the battery. What ensued next was a chaotic display of clicking, sparks, and a now (more) broken goblin. A few fuses blew, as my first round of additional diagnosis went underway. The starter just clicks now. I'm assuming a few more fuses and relays may have gotten the axe during the process.

So... that was fun. One more thing on the list! My wife got very sad that she may have broken the goblin even more than it already was but I reassured her it's all fine.

Sorta promising to find I may have a spark issue though so that is a good path to go down. Should be easy to confirm once I get the starting issue re-respolved.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
The starter just clicks... Is it a little relay click coming from the fuse box, or is it a big click coming from the solenoid on the starter?
Once the solenoid on the starter clicks, there is no more fuses for the starter motor. Probably a bad connection.

Do your headlights dim when the starter clicks? If yes, then the starter motor is trying to run. If no, then your starter isn't getting the amperage it needs, check for bad connections.

Check/clean the battery terminal contacts, and the starter wires. All those heavy wires should carry 100+ amps from the battery to the starter without any fuses involved. Check the battery ground strap has a solid connection on the frame too.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Its the starter solenoid, large clicking. The part that has me worried is nothing changed between attempt 1 and 2 of the starting except my wife's delicate touch on the grounding "On" wire from the ignition replacement device BradR made.

Thankfully diagnosing a clicking starter is relatively straightforward as you've said. I didn't get to it last night, though. Today I'm going to run through that general area, but I'm worried something was damaged from the very quick on/off sequence my wife put it through when she didn't firmly hold the grounding wire down, like it seriously went on/off like 30-40 times within the span of a few seconds before I realized what was going on.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Okay so for whatever reason, my starter issues are now gone and it's back to turning over... so last night's issues with my wife blowing up some fuses are no longer a problem.

I removed all 4 spark plugs, grounded them out, pulled the injector 15amp fuse, and turned it over. I originally thought I didn't have spark but I realized that the 15amp ignition fuse I pulled is also tied to the power for the coil packs, so after plugging that fuse back in I found all 4 plugs sparking fine.

Next up on the list is fuel.
 
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Are you sure the theft deterrent module is validating your key for the fuel delivery? security light off? The VXDIAG / Tech 2 should be able to validate that.

The auto lighting sounds awfully fishy. I'd reconfirm ALL of your BCM inputs & outputs; not just those wires. One bad input creating an improper signal could affect an entire internal bus. Chase that down before you go further.

If, after that, wiring is good, there could possibly be a BCM issue, which again could cause numerous senseless problems.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Just pulled the VC, confirmed the timing is OK. Crank TDC @ piston #1, Exhaust cam is @ 10 o'clock, Intake cam is @ 2 o'clock.

Everything appears tight, well oiled, and good to go. Although I have not 100% confirmed fuel coming from each injector, I can smell it and checked my fuel pump is priming and sending fuel down the line. I think I can safely say fuel is OK. I can check each injector's wiring I suppose. I've confirmed I'm getting spark already.

I'm worried about my wiring job, given that I have a crazy auto-light kill switch. The BCM is killed when you turn the light stalk to AUTO.

So, that sucks... that's gonna be real fun to track down.

I ordered a compression tester, even though I have a successful leak-down test, for peace of mind. Should pick that up today and see the results later on.
 
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Classy

Well-Known Member
Has it ever back fired? Any chance that the injectors and or the coil packs are wired up right/ hooked up to the right injector and or coil pack?
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
No backfires.
Coils are correct according to the wiring diagram for my model year.
The injectors have a sub harness that's sort of pre-formed and attached to the rail, so I just left it as is.

I do believe it's trying to fire, because I do smell the remnants of burned fuel in the exhaust. I can also see a small amount of exhaust gas inside the pipe as well. It just never wants to carry itself into idle.

I have not checked the wires for the injectors themselves, the wiring for the engine itself has not been touched aside from unwrapping and re-wrapping with new electrical tape. I can smell gas when I open the plugs up and I know the fuel pump is priming and sending fuel to the rail.

I did my own wiring harness and had issues with my black multiplug on the fuse box (the bolt stripped and it's stuck inside the box now) so I'm combing through my diagrams to map out each black multiplug wire and checking continuity.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Guys, I dun goof'd.

I busted out the ol' drill in an attempt to drill out the stripped black multiplug bolt holding it in. I was 99% through and almost ready to take it out when the drill slipped and I pushed straight through the fuse box (and the circuit board inside it).

In search for an LNF fuse box now. There's one on FB that I've reached out to but they're asking $100 and i'm trying to get out a lil less than that.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
That stinks. I hate when best intentions go awry and we end up making more work and expense as a result.
Wish I was further along with my build, into the wiring harness, because I may go the route Brian (Brian74) did with using the BCM as the fuse/relay box and eliminate the engine fusebox altogether (will need the space above the transmission). I don't want to get rid of it yet as I may need to do circuit checks with it before swapping wires and connections over. Sorry. :(
Someone on the forum should have a lead to one, since as a group we seem to be able to source everything.
 
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