Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina] [Registered] [Sold]

Mayor West

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I made a new RPD mount! This time it actually fits and doesn't suck. It reuses the OEM RPD case and turns it toward the driver.

Working on putting my wideband gauge in there somewhere, whether alongside the RPD or next to the steering wheel.
 

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Mayor West

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Today @OptimizePrime & @KSLunsfo came over to help with my alignment and general love & support. Many thanks to Optimize's alignment kit because it was super helpful. We didn't quiet get it 100% but we did get it close. Learned a few things along the way.

Found out they my brake calipers are indeed leaking a little in addition to the brake reservoir at the DF adapter.

Also, it doesn't look like my clutch is leaking but my rear main seal, so although I've replaced it with a new oem one I have to pull my motor now. Fantastic.

My idle appears to be ok after finding a vacuum leak at my brake booster fitting.

I swapped my 2.5" MAF housing to a 3.0" housing and longer running tube and it does not run with that version, so I'm not sure what's up. Like other people it shut soft immediately after turning on of the MAF is plugged in, but only when I have my 3" pipe in. It works fine with my 2.5". I guess I'll table that adjustment.
 
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Mayor West

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
The car came with a k&n typhoon intake and I cut the 3" MAF tube out of that, so I sorta hoped it'd be closer to the stock sizing but no I did not scale my MAF.

I only got the 3" version because people said I needed a larger pipe because 2.5" may outflow it.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Mayor West said:
Today @OptimizePrime & @KSLunsfo came over to help with my alignment and general love & support. Many thanks to Optimize's alignment kit because it was super helpful. We didn't quiet get it 100% but we did get it close. Learned a few things along the way.
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You got any pics of this "alignment kit"? I built some jigs that mount to both wheels on one axle that uses two tape measures and a digital angle finder that I used on my Colorado back in the day but I'd like to see other solutions.

Also, did you get the headlights mounted/do you have pics? Still planning on copying you as of right now.

Might have to do a Carolinas meetup here at some point...
 
k.rollin

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Rttoys said:
I used QuickTrick alignment kit on mine. I did not use turn plates due to how light the front of the goblin is. If it binds or turns hard, put a thin piece of flat plate under the tire so it slides.
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My solution for turn plates has been a steel protractor, sidewalk chalk, four pieces of one sqft vinyl tile (two per side), and table salt between the two tiles. Worked great for my TIB Ranger (wasn't necessary on the Goblin).
 
Kenny123

Kenny123

Well-Known Member
Mayor West said:
Received my MCO from Adam today, as well as got some insurance quotes from Progressive from my broker. Liability with 100/300 limits for $37.33/mo.

I printed a steering wheel holder for when I'm getting in/out of the car. Turned out pretty nicely. The STL is in my signature.
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Looks sick. I need to get a 3d printer man. I wanted to make this exact hook setup for my wheel but I was gonna use steel. That looks so good.
 
Mayor West

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
Tonight I hooked up my headlights, turn signals, and temporarily wired my brake lights to fully test them. I also added my 3D printed turn signal stalk switch holder and more permanently secured my manual steering bar. It's coming together!
  1. My brake lights never go off, they're 100% brightness all the time.
    1. Is the potentiometer adjustable with a Tech2?
  2. My DRL's just don't seem to be working.
    1. I need to check the fuse
  3. One of my headlights low beams doesn't work, but the other does.
    1. I need to check the fuse
    2. I checked the light itself and it does work.
    3. I need to review the wiring videos and schematics to see where these wire end up and confirm continuity and all that stuff...
Overall good enough progress for me, I think. Put the kids to bed, then the wife watched 90 day Fiancé and I spent some time in the garage.
  • Wiring
    • Put ambient air sensor somewhere
    • Fully implement wideband wiring
    • Wire brake lights
    • Wire in dash buttons
      • Buy dash buttons
    • Implement BradR's ignition switch bypass somewhere
    • Figure out Brake Light Issue
    • Figure out DRL Issue
    • Figure out single low-beam issue
  • Tune
    • Ongoing
  • Leaks
    • Brakes @ Calipers
      • Retighten I guess
    • Brake Reservoir to DF Block
      • Could switch to Tilton to avoid the leaky adapter, but I don't want to spend more money to fix something that I already paid for...
    • RMS and/or clutch slave cylinder (FML)
    • Possibly reroute radiator (swap top/bottom)
 
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OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
With the brakes on at all times, check the brake sensor lever bolt (it's a tiny little guy). My bolt actually has to be a little loose to let the brake sensor disengage - it's incredibly sensitive.

Also, if you don't have a resistor wired in to your parking lamps wire it'll look like your brakes are on. Gotta dim it a bit to tell the difference

Do the above and report back
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
OptimizePrime said:
With the brakes on at all times, check the brake sensor lever bolt (it's a tiny little guy). My bolt actually has to be a little loose to let the brake sensor disengage - it's incredibly sensitive.

Also, if you don't have a resistor wired in to your parking lamps wire it'll look like your brakes are on. Gotta dim it a bit to tell the difference

Do the above and report back
Click to expand...
O Prime, is the bit above about a resistor on the parking lamps wire, specific to LED headlights and/or different brake lights than what is provided with the kit? I do not have a resistor wired in and mine work fine.
 
OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Ark :D said:
O Prime, is the bit above about a resistor on the parking lamps wire, specific to LED headlights and/or different brake lights than what is provided with the kit? I do not have a resistor wired in and mine work fine.
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Yep! And maybe even just these LEDs - we have the same rear tails. It's hard to tell between the DRL/parking lights on and Brakes on. I think I used a 100k ohm resistor on the drls to dim them enough to settle them down but still be noticeable.
 
Mayor West

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
OptimizePrime said:
With the brakes on at all times, check the brake sensor lever bolt (it's a tiny little guy). My bolt actually has to be a little loose to let the brake sensor disengage - it's incredibly sensitive.

Also, if you don't have a resistor wired in to your parking lamps wire it'll look like your brakes are on. Gotta dim it a bit to tell the difference

Do the above and report back
Click to expand...
I had the dimming wire hooked up for testing but I removed the dimming wire for this exact purpose. According to the interwebs I can adjust the potentiometer in my Tech2. Jiggling my brake pedal doesn't change, so I think it just needs a reset. When I first got my donor the clutch didn't work so I ordered a new clutch pedal sensor, only to find out that the part #s for the clutch and brake sensors are swapped on Amazon (brake says clutch, clutch says brake) so I ended up replacing both sensors, I probably just need to reset it? I'm not seeing any info online on how to do that, though... and I don't remember seeing the brake stuff while messing around in mine.

When I hook my brake light DRL wire up they're dim enough to tell a difference between the brakes and DRLs, though. Also, I don't have hyperflashing because I have my CBR side mirrors hooked up and they're normal bulbs so I guess they take the current up enough to prevent hyperflashing.
 
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