MisterDave's - Ext. city Goblin - 09 SS/TC donor

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Hhhmmm. Post pics of the front end. A picture is worth 1000 words. Maybe someone will see something.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
Update:

Clutch: I bled the clutch a few times.... I didn't get any indication anything was wrong. Put everything back together and tried clutch with the car off... still didn't work... turn the car on and it worked! Clutch is working now! I wish I had a definite reason why it wasn't working, but I don't... best guess is that is was just stuck after sitting for a bit.

Brakes: bled again to check them. seem to be all good. There was a slight leak from both front bleeder screw. coming from the threads... but I don't think they are leaking anymore. I will continue to monitor for leaks.

transmission: I did find 5th and Reverse. After reading other posts I heard they can be difficult to shift into and reverse is farther right than 5th is. The reason I was having a hard time finding them before is that my stick is set too far left. It doesn't reach the right edge to use the safety for reverse. I think I can adjust this with one of the rods that connect to the shifter. I didn't have to adjust the trans cables.

Lights: I've connected headlights, taillights, and blinkers. Still have to connect plate light and third brake light. I have a wire labeled third brake light... I think it's blue. Is this bright brake light wire? Should I then connect a ground and running light wire from one of the tail lights?

Footwell Cover: Did my first pass on cutting the footwell cover to fit. Any tips on mounting the footwell cover? I think I remember seeing someone just zip tying it down rather than using screws.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
You should be able to adjust your shifter properly that way, yes.

The light blue wire is the third brake light wire, but if your donor had cruise control, you need to do a little more than just wire up your CHMSL with it. Do you have cruise?

I just attached my footwell cover with self-tappers, with thin weather stripping between it and the frame to stop vibration if it were a possibility.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
You should be able to adjust your shifter properly that way, yes.

The light blue wire is the third brake light wire, but if your donor had cruise control, you need to do a little more than just wire up your CHMSL with it. Do you have cruise?

I just attached my footwell cover with self-tappers, with thin weather stripping between it and the frame to stop vibration if it were a possibility.
Yes, the donor had cruise control. I will probably never use it, but I'd like to retain it if I can.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
So if I understand that thread....
I believe my tail lights are working correctly.
To do the third brake light I should run a ground wire to the light and a running light wire from one of the tail lights.
The third brake wire I should connect a resistor to the blue wire and the other side of the resister to ground. That same blue wire should continue past the resister and then connect to the third brake light.

16232
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
That's correct, but two things:

1) The brown running light wire is only necessary if your chosen CHMSL has a need for it. Mine does not, so all I needed was a ground and the light blue wire.

2) Correct on the resistor ... but there's a question in my mind of how much power it needs to be rated for. Lonny suggested a 50W resistor in that thread, but I can't see how the load is anywhere near that much. I used a 2W 100-ohm resistor and my third brake light works perfectly, but I can't test absolutely whether my cruise control actually works because I have no button panel and no street legality.
 
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MisterDave

Well-Known Member
The brake light i picked up has three wires to it. ground, low and high. That's the only reason I assume I need that brown wire.

Looks like JBINTX used a 50W 60hm, sounds like it worked for him.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
In one of the disassembly videos it said to "remove the O2 sensor and save it to be used later." This was the O2 sensor that was connected to the exhaust. I never installed it anywhere... Am I missing something?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
The brake light i picked up has three wires to it. ground, low and high. That's the only reason I assume I need that brown wire.

Looks like JBINTX used a 50W 60hm, sounds like it worked for him.
Sounds like you need the brown wire then.

In one of the disassembly videos it said to "remove the O2 sensor and save it to be used later." This was the O2 sensor that was connected to the exhaust. I never installed it anywhere... Am I missing something?
I never installed mine anywhere, either.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
In one of the disassembly videos it said to "remove the O2 sensor and save it to be used later." This was the O2 sensor that was connected to the exhaust. I never installed it anywhere... Am I missing something?
There is a pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor that we need in the Goblin,
and a post-catalytic converter O2 sensor that we don't need.

The exhaust manifold has the pre-cat O2 sensor, and the muffler pipe has my wideband O2 sensor (which is an extra non-essential gauge for engine tuning). You could put the post-cat O2 in the muffler, but if you hook it up to the stock wiring, the PCM would probably start messing with your fuel. I wouldn't plug it into the wiring harness without the catalytic converter in place.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
You should have an O2 sensor in the manifold coming from your turbo if it is stock. If you are running an aftermarket turbo you may need to weld in an o2 threaded bung into your exhaust system.
20200821_164209.jpg

This is a stock K04 turbo.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
Yes I have this one... Only reason I ask is in the video it showed removing the other O2 sensor and saving it for later. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Sounds like I'm on the right track.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
Got my first test drive today. Pretty awesome! Everything seemed to go smoothly except for one thing... It seems I'm getting a leak at bleeder screws at both front calipers. Any tips for this one? they leaked a little after I first bled the brakes and I just tightened them down a little more and thought it was good. But I guess using the brakes pushed some out. These are calipers from DF.
Feels great to get to drive it.
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
I always use blue loctite on bleeder threads. I don't know if that's proper procedure, but I've never had any issues.
I was debating this.... I was thinking of removing the bleeder screw using blue loctite and let it dry on the screw before replacing... Think this would work?
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I used Permatex high temp thread sealant for the bleeder screws and reservoir/master cylinder fittings. Definitely works and is marked as acceptable for brake fittings.
 
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