Murcielago311's City/standard build - 06 SS/SC - Chassis #177 *REGISTERED*

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
Was able to get the garage arranged and got started on donor disassembly this nice November weekend.
I need to swing by harbor freight this week for a vacuum bleeder and engine hoist. Maybe engine stand as well? Can I do timing kit and cleaning from the hoist or moving dolly?

Prior to this I drove the donor a couple times a week to work for a month. Then got the donor junk titled in MO, after ODID and AC drained. Going to miss driving it until goblin startup.

Question, do I need to retain anything at all from the doors, except the bolts? I've already sold the hood and front bumper and would like to list the doors also. Thanks
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
That is great! Once you get the donor stripped and out of the garage will be a big step. I see the boss is behind the wheel and providing his help to make sure it gets done right! :) If you are taking the engine and trans separated/turndown, the engine stand ($55 at HF with 20% off coupon) is much more stable to do cleaning, refurbish work and painting, just my opinion. A moving dolly is a good thing to have to store and move things around if the engine and trans remain together. As far as retaining thing from the donor, be sure to take every bolt out that you can to keep, you can never have too many extra bolts. If you are doing a parking brake, be sure to retain the entire parking brake system - handle, tubes, clips, cables - since it will be needed. The brakes, brake lines (rubber) and retaining clips will all be needed. If you are using the seats and seatbelts, keep all bolts and brackets. There is really nothing from the doors you need to keep - I sold both of mine.
 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
I went through the exact same process you're going through now (new hoist and stand from HF). The engine stand makes life so much easier on many fronts. It's possible to take off the trans and keep the flywheel on so you don't have to buy new TTY flywheel bolts which is nice.

As far as cleanup goes, I think the Walnut blasting saved a lot of time getting the grime off the hard to reach spots, clean the valves and cleaning up parts for paint / powder. HF sells the Walnut media and I think still has a blasting gun where the pipe just goes into the media and you just hook up the air supply -- works great.

Speaking of the parking brake, I couldn't figure out how to get the wire off the calipers without cutting the wire. You may have better luck but I'm having to purchase new wires ( $14 ).
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Speaking of the parking brake, I couldn't figure out how to get the wire off the calipers without cutting the wire. You may have better luck but I'm having to purchase new wires ( $14 ).
I managed to get mine out, but I have to buy new ones anyway. I should have just snipped them like you did. I'm stubborn though, and wouldn't let them beat me.
 

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
Cool. Ya i'm going to go for the HF stand. Thanks guys for the input. The hoist is on sale for Thanksgiving also; I think $130. I can always resell them later if I want the space back.

I actually already have the walnut media setup from my days of cleaning intake valves on my Mazdaspeed 3. Won't miss that job. Great car though.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Off to a good start, you're at the point where things can really start to come apart. That reminds me... engine stand is about the only thing I haven't gotten to my house yet, I have one from years ago at my parents, but it may have a dsm engine on it lol.
 

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
Finished dropping the powertrain today and have a healthy start on the interior. Everything's gone pretty smoothly so far except for:

* One rear subframe bolt is just spinning the sleeve of the rear control arm bushing because they are shot. I'll try a couple times to get it out but probably just end up cutting and replacing.
* Both upper seatbelt torx bolts were already stripped. I guess someone hadn't watched the DF build guide videos where they caution against that. I'll be drilling and replacing these too.

Got bolts for my harbor freight engine stand. Need to look into how to actually mount the engine to it eventually. It's sitting on a dolly for now. Focusing on getting frame out of here for more room to organize and clean parts.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The engine bolt holes are metric and I'm pretty sure the harbor freight bolts are standard SAE bolts. Be sure to get the correct bolts before mounting, is very frustrating to be ready and not have the correct ones. Been there, done that.
 

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru
Finished dropping the powertrain today and have a healthy start on the interior. Everything's gone pretty smoothly so far except for:

* One rear subframe bolt is just spinning the sleeve of the rear control arm bushing because they are shot. I'll try a couple times to get it out but probably just end up cutting and replacing.
* Both upper seatbelt torx bolts were already stripped. I guess someone hadn't watched the DF build guide videos where they caution against that. I'll be drilling and replacing these too.

Got bolts for my harbor freight engine stand. Need to look into how to actually mount the engine to it eventually. It's sitting on a dolly for now. Focusing on getting frame out of here for more room to organize and clean parts.
If I remember tomorrow I'll grab a picture of mine on the stand
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
* One rear subframe bolt is just spinning the sleeve of the rear control arm bushing because they are shot. I'll try a couple times to get it out but probably just end up cutting and replacing.
Let me guess. Right rear bolt? What happens is the nut spins and breaks the cage it is in. I cut the side of the frame support out I was able to get to the nut. Oiled it up and wedged a pry bar against the frame and nut. I was able to run it in and out with my impact gun until it was out.
 

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
You guessed the right corner! But I think mine's a little different. The bolt released the subframe from the frame just fine, but now the inner sleeve of the bushing is seized to the bolt. There's room to get tools in there, shouldn't be a problem. I just haven't messed with it yet.
 

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Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
Finished the tear-down today. I like working on cars, but man, removing every single fastener on one starts to get a little tedious. I'll get the frame out next weekend for starting cleaning the parts, and the floor (that coolant just never stops coming out).

The absolute only thing left on the donor is that big (evap?) box behind the fuel tank. We don't need that right?

I know this forum is really hurting for cobalt shell pics so here you guys go. There's also a pic of almost all the tools I used also after they were no longer scattered everywhere.
 

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OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
The absolute only thing left on the donor is that big (evap?) box behind the fuel tank. We don't need that right?
I had this same question initially as well. The Goblin gets registered as a kit car in which case there is no emissions = no evap can needed. I threw mine away thinking nobody would need it and of course got hits on Facebook about it -- so hold on to it as it might be worth a few sheckles.
 
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