ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
This thread will contain my build from start to finish of a 2005 Cobalt SS/SC with LSD transmission @ 100K miles.
  1. The donor is out of Maryland and was rolled on its driver side.
  2. Engine starts and idles at 1K RPM
  3. All gears shift smooth on jack stands.
  4. 4 tires are flat due to accident.
  5. Front suspension looks to be new.
  6. CV axles are in good shape.
  7. Radiator cracked
  8. Cost of donor $1,100 after fees, $100 gas to transport.
    IMG-0170.JPG
    IMG-0178.JPG
    IMG-0182.JPG
    2C487634-71BD-4800-AE2A-8295FD8B4C28.jpeg
    DF68991D-2D8B-4D2A-AEDA-F1F589857545.jpeg
    IMG-0170.JPG
    88612BE0-4986-43D3-8170-BF0F09A31584.jpeg
    F1710895-3360-4395-AF3A-8E06F6AC015F.jpeg
    20D05AE6-C122-4E0D-9CDB-5587D82E5FBB.jpeg
    2C487634-71BD-4800-AE2A-8295FD8B4C28.jpeg
    2C487634-71BD-4800-AE2A-8295FD8B4C28.jpeg
    2B3651E8-AA93-4481-9EA6-56E99A05FDD8.jpeg
 
Last edited:

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Welcome to the build!

Another SS/SC, becoming very popular. Seems like a great donor at 100K! Let us know if you have any questions along the way. Enjoy the build.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Well I am onto the harness and complete with step 11. I have some extra plugs and am wondering if I could get some assistance if I should cut them or not.

Verified: Picture 1-2 (Battery current sensor), Picture 4-5 (Auxillary Power), Picture 7-8 (Body to Engine plug). Still need help with pictures 6, and 9.
IMG_0308.JPG
IMG_0309.JPG

IMG_0310.JPG
IMG_0311.JPG
IMG_0312.JPG
IMG_0313.JPG
IMG_0314.JPG
IMG_0315.JPG
IMG_0316.JPG
 
Last edited:

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
At work right now, but I would reference the online Chilton manual that's posted here in the forum. I think someone posted it in DPerkins Build log. Search for Chilton and you will find the site and passcode.
My wiring/connectors differed from what was in the manual but it was close enough to help identify what they were for.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Local draft with local watermelon and a challenging wiring harness...

1.JPG


Clutch was gone I ended up ordering an exedy clutch/flywheel/bearing combo.
2.JPG


Engine before
3.JPG


Sent the valve cover for powder coating, Ferrari red.
4.JPG


East Coast Paint ceramic aluminum paint. I love black but my logic behind this one is the paint will eventually age and silver over silver will not show as many imperfections over time.
5.JPG


Some goodies. I am going with 4x100 in the front and 5x114.3 in the rear lug pattern. I had to purchase LT front bearings.
6.JPG


5x110 To 5x114.3 wheel spaces 1" to fit my 275 tires.
7.JPG


205s in the front, 275 in the rear
8.JPG
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Yes!!! Such a great idea!
It’s really not an option any other way the winch from tractor supply was $20 pulling by hand is close to impossible if at best frustrating. We pulled this with one hand on a crank in a perfect sitution 1 hour. Most important part is make sure to use (2) zip ties and clamp hose down first for 15 mins like in the videos then remove clamp and pull ties very tight so they fit in the pipe. I had 3 hours combining the pulling by hand then giving up. I actually laughed when we started cranking just due to the effort I waisted Saturday. Thanks to Lonnie for giving me the idea he saved my weekend from being a failure.
 

SliderR1

Well-Known Member
Lonny showed me a picture of his setup like that when they were in town, pretty cool idea - and cheap!
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Lonny showed me a picture of his setup like that when they were in town, pretty cool idea - and cheap!
Yea your actually waisting money not doing it if you account 3-4 hour of frustration I’m still amazed people did it by hand.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Hey guys any tips on how to install this clutch pedal all the examples I have come across are for 2009+ mine is a 2005. My pedal hits the steering shaft.

Thanks in advance.
19A9AC50-3F36-4F22-89EB-D39A28C1C2C7.jpeg
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Once you get the pedal assembly bolted up you will need to push away the top while pulling the pedal away from the steering shaft to gain some clearance. You will also need to remove some of the material from behind the pad that depresses the switch.

If you don't bend it far enough from the steering shaft it will hit the universal joint when the pedal is fully depressed, especially while turning the wheel.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Once you get the pedal assembly bolted up you will need to push away the top while pulling the pedal away from the steering shaft to gain some clearance. You will also need to remove some of the material from behind the pad that depresses the switch.

If you don't bend it far enough from the steering shaft it will hit the universal joint when the pedal is fully depressed, especially while turning the wheel.
I am thinking I may be missing something the pedal is not vertically strait pulling the bracket away from the steering shaft causes it to bend more. It’s almost as if I installed it incorrectly.

17402502-5A5B-4DC4-B22B-BE0213BC3F8B.jpeg
8CB7C614-4BFA-4E77-BC7F-1A1C8E5D855F.jpeg
4160DA6D-42E4-49B0-96DD-E4A369480E6F.jpeg
C3A27144-57DB-426F-AC3A-BC18D27E2188.jpeg
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Not sure what these connectors are I’m starting to add back engine harness. Really wish I would have taken more
Photos I guess I’m learning now
C2B86CFA-256F-4F2D-B945-8097D98CB77C.jpeg
F81B64F7-576A-48B9-97B5-B7B8CFAEBB10.jpeg
D2823263-7E93-4564-8ADF-EFD5443B0503.jpeg
 

Wes

Well-Known Member
Toss the stuff from the first pic, one is a gps tracking device... The plug looks like one from radiator fan wiring, have to look up wire colors to be sure
 
Top