Not an actual corgi's Build Log - 2007 SS/SC

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Good job.

That’s the same way I did it, but I used the bottom half of an old Rubbermaid cart. It all works the same though.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Be sure to save all your coolant hoses, the SS/SC builds use an amalgamation of stock and new hoses.
 

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
I have been keeping every single hose intact (except for the two heater lines that they say to cut at the firewall in the video), and being overall careful not to break or cut anything unless told to do so in a video. The only exception so far is the evap line that connects to the block mounted on the valve cover area - I forgot to unhook that and it snapped at the end with the white clip. If I recall correctly from other posts, the evap setup isn't needed on a state that doesn't require emissions on these cars (I live in SC), right?

Also, in the infinite wisdom of the previous owner, the bottom port facing the front of the solenoid boost controller has been capped off with a small hose and bolt. It seemed to run and drive just fine when I first bought the donor. What issues would that cause? From what I understand, that is some sort of vent to or from atmosphere, correct? And where would I even get a piece of foam or other appropriate filtering cap for that to correct it that fits over that fitting?

Also, another small victory: the wiring harness came out yesterday afternoon! Dash is up next to be disassembled (it's already out but in one big piece), and I am looking to get started thinning/prepping the harness this weekend.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
1. No evap required in SC. I managed to remove part of the bracket for the evap and boost control solenoids just to clean it up, I can snap a picture tonight if you're interested but I'd imagine you could figure it out.
2. Can you post a picture? Or others with better photographic memories can chime in, but if I understand correctly, it should be open to atmosphere. I've read a few "solenoid bypass" mods from other forums but none seem to make any sense to me. If it ran fine then I might not mess with it though.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I'll do that tonight.

I can't for the life of me figure out what that bolt is attempting to accomplish. From my understanding of the system, the bypass control valve (mounted to the supercharger) is actuated by intake manifold pressure. I think the solenoid usually stays open, so if you have vacuum in the manifold, the bypass valve stays open. The solenoid only closes, thus preventing the bypass valve closing due to an absence of vacuum, under situations where it would normally be making boost but the ECU doesn't want to. I've heard of hacks to prevent the system from functioning as intended in the hopes that it will make boost sooner, but I think that's silly and I don't think that bolt is how that's accomplished anyway. I'm sure smarter folks will chime in, though.
 

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
Right, I was going to try and find some sort of loose cell scrap foam and cut a tube recess into it and glue it into place as a filter. Anything has got to be better than the closed cell bolt currently in place :D
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Great progress! Put something under those axles to support them. I used cheap bed risers on mine.
 

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
No problem, I found some nylon string and hung each loose axle end from those bolts. Seems to be working fine.
 

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
So I was wondering a couple things. Does anyone with a recent chassis know these two things:

1) Do the frames all come with the wing mount ears welded on? I have no desire to run a rear wing mount upon building the Goblin, but it'd be nice to have the hard points if I change my mind one day, and not have to weld on my own.

2) Do the new kits come with all parking brake parts and brake parts for the front of the Goblin (mine is a manual SS/SC donor kit)? I think the parking brake is frozen on my donor since the cable had been disconnected when I got it, and was very tight feeling when I engaged it to lift the front of the car. It would be nice to not faff about with the old rear brakes that seem to be a bit crusty if I don't have to, and just pull the hubs out.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Yes, the wing mounts are welded on the frame unless requested not to have them welded on.

If you placed your order in 2021, then your kit will come with the parking brake kit as it's a manual vehicle. That means new rotors, pads, and calipers. I'd still grab your parking brake handle, lines and tubes though just in case. You can buy new lines from rockauto, but you will not be able to get the tubes new anywhere.
 
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