Not an actual corgi's Build Log - 2007 SS/SC

[Corgithulhu]

Some more progress being made every night. Rear suspension is mostly together. Front is coming together, but I found out I don't own a 15/16" wrench to torque the big upright bolts so that's where I sit until I go get one.

That rivet nut tool is no fun right now. I think I strained a ligament in my left arm when I put the floors on, and I can barely do two before I make my arm a useless lump for four hours. Project rivet nut is officially on hold until my feeble 32 year old body finds time to recover.

 

[Chris_WNC]

Is there a pneumatic or Milwaukee M18 rivnut tool? I think I want to use a bunch of them and the Factory Five kit I have my eyes on uses a lot of them too.

CHRIS

 

[Corgithulhu]

Oh yeah there are definitely pneumatic tools out there. If I had to do this again, I would definitely pick one up.

 

[Joebob]

Some more progress being made every night. Rear suspension is mostly together. Front is coming together, but I found out I don't own a 15/16" wrench to torque the big upright bolts so that's where I sit until I go get one.

View attachment 26287

I see you have the HD steel brackets. Did you get 2 or 4? I got two and they are supposed to be on the bottom with the longer bolts. I also found that you need a 1/8" thick 5/8" flat washer to go between the lower bracket and the safety washer to raise the upright up a bit to clear the lower helm jam nut. I can send a pick if you need.

Joe

 

[Corgithulhu]

I got four brackets and four identical 5/8" bolts. I referenced Adam's photo album to put it together:

Front Suspension Steel Mounts

2 new items · Album by Adam Doyle

photos.google.com

All my hardware matched what I could see in the photo of the upright. It also seemed fit just fine - before final torque, the 5/8" bolt is just about flush with the nylon of the lock nuts.

 

[Joebob]

Here is the difference between the HD and the standard brackets. You have them in the right orientation but the thinner scalloped ones should be on top. that lets the bolt thread a little deeper into the nut to have exposed threads on top.

Joe

 

[Corgithulhu]

All four of mine are the straight cut ones. None are thinner and none have the scallop.

 

[Joebob]

Ah, I guess the HD ones are now the "standard" ones. Ok. Carry on. I have the thinner ones on top so have a bit more thread exposed. I currently do not have the Nylock nuts on but you can see what I am running with. You can also see the washer poking out under the lower bracket that you might need to clear the jam nut depending how much you thread out the lower helm joint and your steering rack. I am glad it seems that the HD brackets and steering arms seem to be the new standard.

Note: the camera lens makes the brackets look less than 90 degrees but they are straight.

Joe

 

[Corgithulhu]

Oh interesting, I figured they went from those aluminum block brackets directly to straight cut steel brackets. Maybe eliminating the scalloped brackets was to minimize confusion a little bit and remove some room for error.

 

[Corgithulhu]

OBDII checks to do with a meter here.

So update to this OBD issue after getting DC voltage to it - my scanner wasn't reading any data, so I went back and double checked the pins in that guide. All DC power is reading 12V, but I have no AC voltage from the data pins to ground (this was measured with the key ON and engine OFF). I have continuity between pins 1 and 2. I confirmed:

-OBD 1 and 2 have continuity
-OBD pin 2 has continuity to PCM C1 pin 16
-OBD pin 6 (high speed data +) has continuity to PCM C1 pin 1
-OBD pin 14 (high speed data -) has continuity to PCM C1 pin 2

I suspect this means that OBD pin 1 is going somewhere it shouldn't. Does that hold any merit? This is a 2007 LSJ motor. I am looking at the link below for a full pinout of the PCM connectors, and can't find any low speed GMLAN connections where OBD pin 1 should be going:

Service Information

The engine starts and runs beautifully, if that helps answer anything.

 

[Gtstorey]

You need the pinout info for the obd connector which will list the circuit number to compare to the pin on the other end. It likely though that the OBD pin 1 & 2 shouldn't have continuity. I think that one pin in the OBD should be ground.

 

[Corgithulhu]

I was using the pinout that Ross linked. It shows pin 1 as dark green wire, low speed GMLAN. Pins 4 and 5 look like the grounds. Maybe my MY and engine is slightly different on OBD pinout?

 

[Gtstorey]

I'm not sure if the low speed GMLAN and PCM Class 2 Serial Data are part of what we tied together. You might want to review the videos and see if you can tell.
You also might want to find a full pinout or wiring diagram to track and see that all of the terminals connect all the way back.

 

[Corgithulhu]

In the wiring harness guide part 10, around 8:20 seconds in, step 29, Lonny collects all the loose green wires and solders them together. I assume this is where my continuity comes from. Either a) I made a mistake or b) I should have deviated....either way, it seems I should not have pulled the LSJ's class 2 data green wire into this. Can anyone confirm?

Wiring video linked at the right time stamp:

 

[Gtstorey]

At 7:29 of Part 8, the low speed wire from the splice pack to the OBD is separated out for later. I don't know where it was connected back in later, and I don't know how the LSJ data wire in the OBD is handled since the Video and my donor are LNF.

 

[Gtstorey]

I found a post by Lonny confirming that the separated wire was connected with the remaining data wires,

Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

But then I got to the BCM plug ... J1, C15 according to BAR-AIR's notes I believe? J2, C2.

dfkitcar.com

but I still don't know about the LSJ wire. I would guess it ties in also but I don't know that.

You have confirmed good grounds for both points on the OBD connector?

 

[Corgithulhu]

Interesting. That link makes it seem like 1 and 2 should indeed be connected.

Just tested the grounds again, and pins 4 and 5 are confirmed both continuity to ground.

 

[Gtstorey]

I don't think I would say 100% from my link that 1&2 are connected. Hopefully someone else will confirm.
If they are I would guess that you have 3 other options.
1. A pin or pin isn't making good connection at one end or the other
2. A problem with the BCM, but I don't think it would run if that was the problem.
3. A bad code reader. I know you checked it to other vehicles, but maybe they use different protocol's for communication.

 

[Corgithulhu]

Oh I won't be 100% certain until I actually fix it.

I also don't think it could run if the low speed data wasn't working. I believe the ignition immobilizer depends on it. A bad code reader is a possibility, although I have used it on two Chevrolets. One was my truck, a 2007 Silverado new body, so I would imagine having the same vintage as the donor means the protocols are the same. The other was a 2019 Colorado, possibly the same or a newer protocol. Neither needed any kind of special setup on my end; they both started broadcasting bluetooth as soon as the key was on.

 

[Gtstorey]

It's possible that even the 2007 protocol is substantially different. First year of a new body style, different engines, etc. But this isn't likely the cause. If it isn't the pin 1 & 2 connection causing a problem, then it is probably just a bad connection somewhere.