Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

[Ross]

3 things needed to make an engine run: 1 fuel/air mix, 2 spark, 3 compression. So lets isolate if it #1 or #2. You seem to have #3, since it started.
Pull a spark plug, and check. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail... is it getting fuel pressure?

 

[TheNuker]

Fuel pressure is good after cranking you can smell it in the exhaust. I really think it’s a spark problem, but I’m baffled to figure out what the hell might cause it. Ground from head is solid in about 20 spots I checked. I’ll pull a plug again tomorrow and ground it on the head and see if anything sparks.

so frustrating....

thanks,
Nuker

 

[Lonny]

The valve cover may be insulated from the cylinder head so don't use it as a ground.

Also, try unplugging the crank trigger extension wire on both ends and plug it back in. Maybe it was barely making contact and shook loose.

 

[ctuinstra]

The valve cover may be insulated from the cylinder head so don't use it as a ground.

Also, try unplugging the crank trigger extension wire on both ends and plug it back in. Maybe it was barely making contact and shook loose.

I don’t know why I’m putting this out there, our valve cover had a braided ground strap from the cover to the block. I made sure to re-install it during our build. But still not a good spot for ground if the spark plug when checking for spark.

 

[TheNuker]

The valve cover may be insulated from the cylinder head so don't use it as a ground.

Also, try unplugging the crank trigger extension wire on both ends and plug it back in. Maybe it was barely making contact and shook loose.

Okay I'm going to plan to attach a copper wire wrapped around the spark plug to a bolt in the block tonight and see if it sparks. If it doesn't what should I look for next? I tested tons of points with the multimeter on tone mode all over the head to the block and it seemed solid. This is the craziest thing. Fuel pressure was reading about 75PSI on the Schrader valve so I think that is all good. I have no way of measuring the HPFP side.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

I don’t know why I’m putting this out there, our valve cover had a braided ground strap from the cover to the block. I made sure to re-install it during our build. But still not a good spot for ground if the spark plug when checking for spark.

I read a bunch of threads on that on the cobaltss.net forums but it was all in relation to the LSJ engine, and not for the LNF/LDK. I could try getting a copper mesh and making a grounding strap between head/block though. Not like it would hurt.

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[Waterdriver]

Okay I'm going to plan to attach a copper wire wrapped around the spark plug to a bolt in the block tonight and see if it sparks. If it doesn't what should I look for next? I tested tons of points with the multimeter on tone mode all over the head to the block and it seemed solid. This is the craziest thing. Fuel pressure was reading about 75PSI on the Schrader valve so I think that is all good. I have no way of measuring the HPFP side.

Nuker-

To test for spark, use a jumper cable. Clamp the metal body of the plug in the jaws and the other end to a good ground point on the engine. Then have someone crank the engine while you watch that plug for spark.

 

[ctuinstra]

Check for 12V on the PINK/WHITE wire on any of the ignition coils while cranking. Also check to make sure they are grounded with the black wire. It says that it goes to the rear of cylinder head and not to any other grounds. Make sure you have a good ground there.

 

[Ross]

Is the clutch switch working correctly? Is there any more safety related things that will prevent an engine from starting?

 

[TheNuker]

Okay I have plug #4 out and a jumper cable clamped onto the spark plug and literally to the battery ground. There is no spark.

I think the clutch is working fine as if I unplug it or don’t push it in it won’t even crank.
The plug was wet when I pulled it it so I guess it’s getting fuel.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I’m losing it.

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

@ctuinstra
Next update, I have put pins into the black/pink and black ground wire on 2 of the coil packs and neither are getting 12 volts while cranking.

I have checked continuity between the black ground in the coil pack and 5 random spots on the head/block and it is giving me a solid tone.
Nuker-

 

[ctuinstra]

@ctuinstra
Next update, I have put pins into the black/pink and black ground wire on 2 of the coil packs and neither are getting 12 volts while cranking.

I have checked continuity between the black ground in the coil pack and 5 random spots on the head/block and it is giving me a solid tone.
Nuker-

Check the 15A INJ FUSE. If I'm tracing the diagram correctly (it's hard to read), that should be power from the powertrain relay. And that goes directly to the coil packs. They should have 12V on them when the PWR/TRN relay is turned on.

 

[TheNuker]

Okay!!!!! The 15amp INJ fuse is popping as soon as I turn the key over that one pops. I’m going to swap out the fuse blocks as I have 2 others here.
With the coil pack out it did spark if I turned the key really fast to run and then it would be popped.

I’ll see what happens with the new top now.

Thank you very much to everyone here.
Nuker-

 

[ctuinstra]

Before you go though all of that, we can check to see where it's shorting to ground. You can call me and I can help you.

 

[Rttoys]

Ya. You have a short to ground somewhere. Inspect the harness, but basically, wiggle things around to see if it helps or hurts.

 

[ctuinstra]

I'll bet one of the coils is shorted. Or could be a pinched wire shorting to ground. Should be downhill from here.

 

[ctuinstra]

We talked, one of the coil packs is shorted out blowing the 15A fuse. He said they are all new coils packs.

 

[Rttoys]

This is when you use an auto resetting fuse to diagnose.

 

[ctuinstra]

He was able to diagnose it by checking the resistance of the circuits and sparing the lives of the innocent fuses.

 

[Rttoys]

Good.