Why not run a new wire from end to end for the injector circuit instead? Would save you the hassle of having to rework an entirely new harness. If the problem persists then buy the new fuse box. If the problem persists then buy the new harness and rework it.Well I spent the evening taking apart the whole brand new engine wiring harness. I can't find a single pinch, rip, tear, nick, gouge, break, melt, or any damaged spot at all. ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I'm going to order another new engine harness along with a new engine fuse box and go from there. This is going to be the death of me. No joke.
Nuker-
Why not run a new wire from end to end for the injector circuit instead? Would save you the hassle of having to rework an entirely new harness. If the problem persists then buy the new fuse box. If the problem persists then buy the new harness and rework it.
When I get a chance to get in front of the computer, I’ll see what else we can do. Since you are in the neighborhood (two hours), I could stop by some time and help.Well the problem is right now its not having the "issue" aka the short. It happened on my last drive killed the #1 coilpack towed it home and it was fine no +10volts~ on the purple #1 coilpack wire. Put a new coilpack in today and it fired right up. So There has to be a short somewhere in the fuse box or wiring harness I would think?
I was thinking maybe its another component like the fuel injectors or another coilpack, But the fuel injectors still work for sure even after the coilpack circuit is blown.
@ctuinstra Do you see anything I'm missing in the wiring diagram that could be pointing to another component in the fusebox that could cause this issue? I have ruled out the ECU as the new one was also showing +10~ volts on the purple coilpack wire. That magically went away when I plugged the original ECU back in. I was thinking the only wires I was really messing with would be the ones in and around the fuse box while swapping the ECU...
Nuker-
Well the problem is the injectors are all attached on the LNF since its direct injection. I really don't want to buy another new opal fuel injector setup the yare expensive haha.Maybe the injector is overloading and back feeding the coil. It make be able to take the voltage and the coil can not. I’m not sure how hard it is to swap injectors but if you move the #1 injector and the problem moves then boom there it iz
Going to work on that this weekend. Thank you.I don't understand the interest in the injectors. They are no way shape or form coupled, directly or indirectly, with the ignition coils. Don't let the "INJ" label on the fuse box fool you. Unless the wiring diagram for the 2009 SS/TC I have is completely wrong. The injectors are directly driven by the ECM and do not have direct 12V power coming from the fuse box or the coils.
The simple facts are:
I'm not clear on if you have changed or just swapped or what the spark plugs. If a plug, or wire, is directly shorted to ground, or the gap is excessive, this can put a huge strain on the coil and cause it to fail prematurely.
- The "INJ" 10A fuse supplies 12V to all four coils as soon as the ignition is turned on via the PWR/TRN relay.
- After a short time of the cylinder #1 being fired (engine started), the coil internally shorts.
- Due to this internal short in the coil, excessive current causes "INJ" 10A fuse to blow.
- Replacing the fuse and the #1 coil fixes the issue for a short time and then repeats.
- Disconnecting the purple wire stops the blowing of fuses.
- This is because coil #1 is no longer being charged/discharged, or simply not used; obvious reason it would no longer cause issues.
What do all of the plugs look like when comparing them? What brand and part number are they?
Also, using a bad coil, measure with an ohmmeter and report the following:
It would help to have the same measurements from a known good coil also. It's hard to know for sure what is inside the coil pack, but the image below helps.
- PNK/BLK - BLK
- PNK/BLK - Center conductor of the plug socket (inside the rubber boot)
- BLK - PPL
- BLK - BRN
View attachment 23922
Can't hurt. I doubt we will find a smoking gun, but it might be interesting. Post it up.Going to work on that this weekend. Thank you.
On another note I happened to be running the HP tuners logging when it died during driving last weekend. I wonder if there could be any clues in there?
Nuker-
Are you sure you MAF is mounted in the correct direction? They are directional, at least I know they are on the SS/SC.
Do you HP Tuners? Can you send a tune file and a scan?