Nukers City Goblin - 2009 SS/TC number 2 build

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Probably just a crazy thought, but have you checked voltage with the car running to make sure that the voltage regulator isn't bad and you are getting extremely high voltage.

Conversely, a week battery can cause all kinds of crazy dtc's to pop.
 

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
I started it up today and pulled codes after driving around for about 15 minutes. Got some new interesting codes here..... Removed the evap/AC/ABS codes.

I"m wondering if one of my new GM Stage 1 IAT/TMAP sensors is bad? Right now I have 2 of the same sensor that ZZP sells as a kit, one in the lower charge pipe with brass fitting provided by DF and the second matching sensor in the intake manifold.

The MAF code is there because it won't run for more than a second or 2 with it plugged in

And finally the most interesting part the P2301..... I've actually never had this prior to "Upgrading" the fuse to 30amp from 15amp. The car still runs and drives fine and the coils are obviously working fine still, so i'm looking at this error strongly.

Nuker-

0x544: U2113 (Current, Old, History)
0x544: U2129 (Current, Old, History)
0x544: U2172 (Current, Old, History)
0x7E8: P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P0571 - Brake Switch A Circuit (Pending)
0x7E8: P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Light Control Circuit (Pending, Current, Old)
0x7E8: P2301 - Ignition Coil 1 Control Circuit High Voltage (Pending, Current, Old)
My stage 1 GM sensor was bad that I received from ZZPERFORMANCE it was showing high IATS put gm stock one back on it works like it supposed to went from 156 down to 82
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Probably just a crazy thought, but have you checked voltage with the car running to make sure that the voltage regulator isn't bad and you are getting extremely high voltage.

Conversely, a week battery can cause all kinds of crazy dtc's to pop.
It is a brand new battery, the voltage looks good on that, But where is the voltage regulator at? Where do I check it. That is not a bad idea since it seems every **** problem I have is high voltage everywhere!

Nuker-
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
My stage 1 GM sensor was bad that I received from ZZPERFORMANCE it was showing high IATS put gm stock one back on it works like it supposed to went from 156 down to 82
Interesting, But my tune is specifically for the GMS1 sensors so I would have thought a stock one would not work? I guess I can go buy one and confirm!
Thanks for the thought.

Nuker-
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
It is a brand new battery, the voltage looks good on that, But where is the voltage regulator at? Where do I check it. That is not a bad idea since it seems every **** problem I have is high voltage everywhere!

Nuker-
Just check the voltage at the battery with it running, should be around 14-15 volts at the max. It's also possible that the new battery is bad but doubtful it's causing this problem.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Just check the voltage at the battery with it running, should be around 14-15 volts at the max. It's also possible that the new battery is bad but doubtful it's causing this problem.
14.53v at idle so that seems good too bad haha.
Nuker-
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Well this was the result of driving around the block and my “upgraded fuse” lots of smoke! Ran fine for 15 miles earlier today…… I’ll replace the coil pack tomorrow and see if the short is still present or if it magically fixed itself again. If I can get it going I’ll check voltage with a bit of throttle and see what it is reading.

Nuker-


DC82E89C-A946-48DB-916B-53C71394A78E.jpeg
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
If you think there is a chance that your alternator is overcharging the system maybe you should yank the alternator belt off and do some testing. As long as you don't run your headlights or restart your engine too many times you should be able to drive for a while without the battery getting too low.
Maybe the alternator's internal voltage regulator is malfunctioning. Too high of voltage through the electrical system could probably cause all sorts of things to act wierd.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
If you think there is a chance that your alternator is overcharging the system maybe you should yank the alternator belt off and do some testing. As long as you don't run your headlights or restart your engine too many times you should be able to drive for a while without the battery getting too low.
Maybe the alternator's internal voltage regulator is malfunctioning. Too high of voltage through the electrical system could probably cause all sorts of things to act wierd.

I'll try that tomorrow, Thanks Lonny!
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I didn't really agree with changing the fuse for a higher current rating. The fuses are there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the components. The coils are the source of the short circuit and they are what are blowing the fuses without a doubt. I understand you are having a hard time figuring out why they are going bad (and only the one).

Also, does your engine have this ground strap on the driver's side from the block to the valve cover? I'm not sure if those were on the LNF engines. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but just trying to think of everything.

24386
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I didn't really agree with changing the fuse for a higher current rating. The fuses are there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the components. The coils are the source of the short circuit and they are what are blowing the fuses without a doubt. I understand you are having a hard time figuring out why they are going bad (and only the one).

Also, does your engine have this ground strap on the driver's side from the block to the valve cover? I'm not sure if those were on the LNF engines. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but just trying to think of everything.

View attachment 24386
No it does not have that, and I believe I remember reading only the LSJs had those. I was actually hoping that the wiring would short out somewhere in between and not at the coil itsself!

I took apart the whole other engine harness I have to trace the power wire from the plastic block that connects to the 15amp(original) fuse that was blowing to the coils and this is the junction. So I have confirmed that that fuse ONLY powers the 4 coil pack connectors. Nothing else.

The red with white stripe is the wire feeding the 4way junction from the fuse block.

I also replaced the WHOLE engine fusebox with a brand new one so that is now eliminated from being the issue, as this burned after I changed it.

Still searching....

Nuker-
24387
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
My voltmeter reads between 14.4-14.5V at idle. It's been reading that for almost 3 years and 21k+ miles. I don't think that is a problem. I could be wrong though. Wouldn't be the first time.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Everything you're showing and saying just screams to me coil pack or spark plug. I know you've replaced your coil pack a few times. I haven't been following along too much. But going back to what Chad has brought up a few times, have you done anything with your plugs?
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I'll go buy a full set of plugs tomorrow with the new coil just to eliminate that, This is madness and breaking my head!

Thanks guys,
Nuker-
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I'll go buy a full set of plugs tomorrow with the new coil just to eliminate that, This is madness and breaking my head!

Thanks guys,
Nuker-
Make sure to check the gap and correct them to specs. Sorry, I don't know what it is for the Cobalt.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Got a bunch of stuff done! I'll get pics later. Replaced the 4 spark plugs, printed and started installing the dash that @ctuinstra designed Got the horn and hazards hooked up.

Brought car on trailer to the Kansas Highway patrol inspection station today and that was a breeze! Just gotta get some insurance and should be able to get plates early next week!

Nuker-
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
So after letting my Goblin sit in the garage for a week+ I noticed that inside the wheel there is a small pool collection of break fluid. It is NOT leaking out of the bango bolts im 97.3% sure of. 2 of the wheels had these pools. Not big but enough that I can wipe my finger through it.

I guess this is why I can't seem to get the **** breaks to bleed good. I pressure bled them 6 times tell no bubbles but they still feel like **** after 2-3 break cycles.

Any idea where this might be coming from? When I got them powder coated they got a little inside the lib where the seal goes. I sanded the powder coating off with 600grit very lightly and locked the seals+ lock rings back in what I thought was good. Could this be the route cause?

Nuker-
 
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