Painjack's All Terrain Gobin build (#277) (Picture Heavy)

Painjack

Member
So the goblin is complete-ish, but I thought I would go back and post some pictures I took a long the way, and have a build thread for posting progress and issues, rather than making new problem threads in the electrical sub forum each time. For background, the donor was a 2009 LS automatic, which for the A/T model is good. In my discussions with the DF crew, the manual transmission is a bad choice for the A/T model, as it is geared pretty high.
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I got the ugly yellow donor of Copart for 1150, in early January. which for anyone else in Michigan knows isn't the best time of year to be working on cars. It ran when I got it, but had a dead battery and a leaky fuel line, which got way worse as soon as I crawled under it and touched the rusty spot (it essentially disintegrated and dumped fuel all over my barn floor). It took another month or so to get a car hauler trailer, as the pandemic apparently made everyone want to buy those, but once I got that I was able to get the donor on it and take it in to get the refrigerant pulled out of the AC system, and then got to work tearing it apart.

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Wasn't long before I had a pile of parts and the husk of a car.

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Which brought me up to the wiring harness. I watched all the vidoes first, and tried very hard to be careful and follow instructions, but man oh man did I screw that up.
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I ended up cutting out and thinning out all the wires from one of the ECM plugs, thinking that I was working with a ABS connector.. Lonny came to my rescue and sent me a spare harness that he had laying around for an LT fortunately. Lesson learned there, LABEL EVERYTHING! I'm pretty hard headed and the only way I seem to learn is the hard way, but I get there eventually. So then the kit arrived:
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Got it unpacked and the frame off to powder coat, and while I waited for that I changed the water pump and timing kit on the motor:
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Then the frame came back from powder coat and I got to work
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Assembly went pretty well, aside from missing some suspension pieces for the rear, which the DF crew got shipped out to me quickly.
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But then I ran into a major problem. I had inadvertently broken the anti theft system when I was disassembling the steering column. So after getting everything put together, the car was locked into anti-theft mode and wouldn't start. I ended up having to load it up and take it to a dealership to get a new module installed and programed, a process that my dog found to be very exciting.

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After that, I junked out the crappy donor wheels and tires, and put some good all terrains on it:

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Then my seats finally arrived at the end of July. I was able to get the last few items buttoned up and get the car running just in time (literally, the first start was on the trailer at 6:00 am) to get it into a car show that we do at work each year. It was very well received there, so well in fact that I won the show!

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Unfortunately, that little bit of running wasn't going to be a trend. After that day, it would not run again and I ended up having to replace the starter, then the ECM before it would run again. At that point though it ran great, I took it out on the gravel roads around my house on a shake down cruise, probably put about 10 miles on it that night:

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Unfortunately after that it is back to not starting again. Currently the only clue I have is it has a P0315 error code, which showed up after I replaced the ECM. I can force it to crank by jumping the relay, so power is everywhere it aught to be, but the computer won't let it crank with the key turn. All the crankshaft sensor learn procedures that I can see require a special scanner, (and the vehicle to run), so I'm kind of stumped at the moment.
 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Awesome build! love to see new AT's

Your issues may still stem from the antitheft debacle. Does it turn over and just not start on key turn or is it completely dead?
 

Painjack

Member
It doesn't crank. The anti-theft icon does not light up either. It did start and run several times after I replaced the ECM, but when I went back out to try it last night (and today), nothing. I should have added in the first post also that what drove me to replace the ECM was P0601 error code. When it had that, it would start (after I replaced the starter), and run for 10 seconds then shut off. Unplugging the MAF sensor made that worse. So then I replaced the ECM, re-learned the key, and it started right up and ran very well, but had the P0315 error code (unlearned crankshaft position sensor).
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
You are going to have to track down where the crank circuit is failing. Is it the key not making contact, does it have a cut out for the transmission in gear, BCM signal not getting to the ECU, etc. I would guess you have a wiring problem since it seems intermittent.
 

Painjack

Member
Yeah, I've had no shortage of wiring issues. I think there are a couple gremlins still prowling around in the harness, for instance I have a .3 amp drain on the battery when the key is out, and the head lights are inverted (when in low beam mode, the bright indicator is on, but the lights are in low beam mode, and when flipped to bright mode they light up as bright, but the bright indicator goes out). I know the voltage/amperage is present at the starter, as I can cause it to crank by jumping the relay, and putting a multimeter on the starter posts shows 12.6 volts. I'll back track the command side of the crank relay tomorrow, double checking the voltage there and ground conditions, although I had previously corrected the ground on the command side (the engine harness grounds on the transmission case were bad, wires corroded through under the wrapping, just held in by the crimps). I may pull the crankshaft sensor and check it for continuity also, but if the sensor was bad I would expect a different error code. Can anyone else think of anything to look at?
 

Painjack

Member
So I started working on the goblin again today after taking a break yesterday, and one of the first things I tried was reading the codes with a different app, which gave me a new error code, P0615 Starter Relay Circuit malfunction. That makes sense since it won't crank at all. I checked the park/neutral safety switch and that looks good (0 ohms from pin 1 to pin 12 on the transmission plug, when in park and neutral, and open line in any other position). Then I checked the ignition switch itself, and while I don't see any smoking gun here, the results look a bit odd to me. Does anyone know what they should be? Here is what I got:

Pin Key out Key in Acc position Key on Crank
2 12.7 volts 12.7 volts 12.7 volts 12.24 volts 12.24 volts
3 22 millivolts 22 millivolts 22 millivolts 12.24 volts 12.24 volts
4 8 millivolts 8 millivolts 8 millivolts 12.24 volts 12.24 volts
5 22 millivolts 12.7 volts 12.7 volts 4 volts 3 volts
6 5 volts 5 volts 5 volts 4 volts 4 volts

here is the connector diagram for the ignition switch:
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Anyone got any ideas?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Yeah, I've had no shortage of wiring issues. I think there are a couple gremlins still prowling around in the harness, for instance I have a .3 amp drain on the battery when the key is out, and the head lights are inverted (when in low beam mode, the bright indicator is on, but the lights are in low beam mode, and when flipped to bright mode they light up as bright, but the bright indicator goes out). I know the voltage/amperage is present at the starter, as I can cause it to crank by jumping the relay, and putting a multimeter on the starter posts shows 12.6 volts. I'll back track the command side of the crank relay tomorrow, double checking the voltage there and ground conditions, although I had previously corrected the ground on the command side (the engine harness grounds on the transmission case were bad, wires corroded through under the wrapping, just held in by the crimps). I may pull the crankshaft sensor and check it for continuity also, but if the sensor was bad I would expect a different error code. Can anyone else think of anything to look at?
Was the 300mAmp drain being read after shutting off the car? The BCM will remain powered up for several minutes after turning off the ignition - until the driver's door switch is cycled. There are a few builders who have put a momentary switch in their car to trip this function and kill the power to the BCM - a search should find this info.
 

Painjack

Member
Gstorey, thank you that is helpful. I checked the crank relay and it showed 222 ohms across pins 85 and 86, open everywhere else. I swapped it for one of the other relays of the same type, which made no difference to it starting. But then I checked that relay and it showed the same elevated resistance, so I said to hell with it and ordered 6 brand new ones (they are all of 3$ on rockauto). They will take a couple days to get here, but hopefully that makes the difference.

Sasqwatch, I checked the power drain again a few hours later after the car had just been sitting, and it showed zero amps this time, so I think you are right on it with the RAP circuit, thanks for the heads up about that.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I know I guessed it was the relay but I I just checked one of mine and it measured 222 also. You probably want to back up and start with the first step of the diagnosis if you haven’t already.
 

Painjack

Member
I just went out and did the first few steps of the circuit/system testing procedure, checking the resistance between pin 85 and ground, and I'll be damned if it wasn't 7 M ohm. It was only a couple weeks ago that I took all the grounds off, polished down to bare metal and re-crimped the connectors. Looks like I'll be doing that again. What manual were those pictures from by the way? I think it may be to my benefit to pick that one up.
 

Painjack

Member
Gtstorey you had it on the money. I pulled the fuse box apart and hit that wire with the multimeter, and now it read as an open line. Found the problem!

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Enhance!

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Enhance!

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This is that bastard ground that I took off and cleaned up a week or so ago. Apparently I did a very poor job crimping the wires back in place. It is now crimped, soldered, and has heat shrink tubing around that. Starts right up and runs like a champ now!
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I hate to be that guy but if that’s the clean version I would hate to see the dirty. Buy some lugs and redo any ground that is even close to that.
 

Painjack

Member
Spent a bunch of timing working on the car over the weekend, re-routed all the coolant hoses with 90° elbows and a 180° coming off the water pump. With the A/T versions the radiator is behind the engine, which requires some creative plumbing. Got the fans working and with the new coolant lines there aren't any trapped bubbles, so the cooling system is working pretty good. Spent some time working on the third brake light and got that all dialed in nice, it is now a taillight and a brake light. I also spent a bunch of time trying to figure out why the brights indicator is on on the dashboard when the brights are not on, and vice versa. No luck yet with that though. Got some more pictures and even a few videos of the car in action though, it's definitely fun to drive! Next weekend I may take it up to Silver Lake ORV park, if I manage to not break anything between now and then.

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Walk Around:

Hit 65 on pavement (before a tractor makes us turn):

Drive by:

Drifting into the driveway:
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Could be the low beam and high beam wires are crossed up? The indicator is tied into the high beam relay when the relay is closed - or the indicator is tied to the low beam relay? Sounds like something is not quite wired correctly. :D
 

Painjack

Member
Could be the low beam and high beam wires are crossed up? The indicator is tied into the high beam relay when the relay is closed - or the indicator is tied to the low beam relay? Sounds like something is not quite wired correctly. :D
..alright, so. Yeah, I feel pretty stupid at the moment. Spent like 2 hours on Monday pulling out circuit diagrams for the dashboard indicator, tracing wires and checking grounds from the BCM connectors.. even spliced in a ground that I could manually make to trip the relay to get it back in sequence..

Sasqwatch had it on the nose, I had the **** bright/normal wires reversed at the headlights. Ugh. Live and learn right?
 
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