Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor)

pisco

Well-Known Member
I learned there's a market for the rear beam axle (at least in my area). I believe it's one of two ways to run disc brakes on the rear of a non-SS car. Sold my beam axle and calipers for $275.
Thanks for that
I had no idea it had value
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
So today was an adventure.
Had a scrap guy lined up to come get the shell. I took the day off to finish my continuing Ed and get my state license renewed (super close to deadline) and take care of the carcass hogging up the boss lady’s parking spot in the garage.
I started my day removing the fuel neck and getting the thing set on a harbor freight furniture dolly.
Mistakes were made
Lessons were learned.
it went out to the driveway fairly well. Only a little sketchy anyway.
the scrap guy never showed so just before supper time I decided to try moving it back in the garage.( No way I’m leaving her car parked half a block away on an ice patch for her to climb over while pregnant. ) that’s when things got interesting.
the wood on the dolly gave and snapped in half
I jacked it up and screwed 2 2x4’s to it to brace it up and extend the pressure points under the car.
next the wheels decided to say NOPE. And it was stuck in her parking spot sideways in the driveway.
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Called for reinforcements, Dad lives an hour away and was already on his way home. So I found an 8’ 2x2x1/4” angle and went Egyptian on it. 20 min of prying and I had it behind my truck so her Tahoe could park in it’s driveway spot since the garage was still blocked.

it only tipped off the jack once and that was enough for me.
I think tomorrow I’m bringing it back into the heat and cutting it up
I’ll set a concrete anchor in the garage floor and get out the 2.5 ton chain hoist to drag her in brute force style.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I was using 2 HF dollies (1k furniture dollies) one for front and one for back, and it was STILL sketchy. I only moved it above 2ft either direction in the garage and was afraid of the wheels snapping. I did put 2x6 boards screwed into the dollies for the front because I was afraid of the wood snapping like yours did. I don’t see how they’re rated for 1k lbs with that flimsy wood. But, can’t beat $15 a dolly
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
Ok this might be a dumb question but to me something doesn't seem right.
For the "pedal box"? assembly, is the clutch mounted on a separate bracket or did I take something apart incorrectly?
I'm starting to worry as I'm taking unneeded parts to the scrapyard and landfill today.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Ok this might be a dumb question but to me something doesn't seem right.
For the "pedal box"? assembly, is the clutch mounted on a separate bracket or did I take something apart incorrectly?
I'm starting to worry as I'm taking unneeded parts to the scrapyard and landfill today.
It is on a separate mount.
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
I was using 2 HF dollies (1k furniture dollies) one for front and one for back, and it was STILL sketchy. I only moved it above 2ft either direction in the garage and was afraid of the wheels snapping. I did put 2x6 boards screwed into the dollies for the front because I was afraid of the wood snapping like yours did. I don’t see how they’re rated for 1k lbs with that flimsy wood. But, can’t beat $15 a dolly
Its probably tested under ideal conditions with the weight in the perfect place and on a super smooth/flat surface.
honestly it would have been fine just going down hill, I ran into problems when I tried to force it back up into the garage and the wheels hit the crack in the concrete, car pivoted, rear bumper hit the ground and all the weight transferred to two of the wheels.
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
Borrowed a dump trailer from a friend today and got the junk hauled off.
It was Interesting loading it alone without machinery to lift it
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Got it in and it just didn’t fit so I pulled the bumpers off quick and it just barely fit.

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Literally touching front and back.
Scale weight was 980 and got $80 cash with no title.
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
another day off, had fun with the kids
managed to get the engine up off the moving dolly and on a stand
I fabricobbled a sort of gantry from unistrut, 2x2x1/4" angle, and some skateboard bearings rated for 300# each (supposedly)
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the plan is to build two more of these trolleys and add an axis by removing the small piece of single strut under the current trolley and adding a 9' double strut
I'm actually surprised how well it worked, I used spax power lags rated for 300+ lb pull out in southern yellow pine and one every 16" I'm fairly confident in its ability for what I will use it for.

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little man got a tool set for christmas, I was shocked at the quality his needle nose are nicer than mine. He was pretty excited so I let him remove the ac comp (with my tools lol) after breaking bolts loose 1/8 turn for him he did it himself!

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the flywheel seems to be in decent shape and I don't think this is a stock clutch, no idea if its any good anybody care to chime in? I'd love a little input here should I just throw a clutch in before mounting in the goblin?

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crash damage.. and the replacememt from zzp
I def need help matching colors to repair this..
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
alldatadiy.com has wiring diagrams for all that stuff. It is a yearly subscription and, if you have crash damage to those parts, might be worth the cost. I think it was under 100 dollars but might be a lot cheaper. Just realized you have the same donor I have. Let me see if I can find the diagrams and send them over to you.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
If you are military or have a library card in some zipcodes, you can get the Chilton stuff for free. Same data.
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
So, the wiring coming off the stock LNF harness is the three wires that you have identified. What is throwing me off is that you have a 4 wire connected spliced onto the harness. For the MAP sensor on the manifold, it should be a 3 wire connector.

I plan on doing the same conversion and I have the replacement map sensors and pigtails in my garage. However, it will be over a week before I get in front of my Goblin to look at the wiring and trace it out.

Here are some wiring diagrams that might help:

factory 3 wire map sensor connector pinout:
19530


General diagram of the various wiring.
19531



This is a screen grab from the gm stage 1 install information. With this you should be able to cut off the engine side and the pigtail in half and solder them together.

19532


Also attached is the PDF of the gm stage 1 install info to provide more added color.

I think if you take a few minutes and map this out, you should be good to go.

This is what I would do but please double check my work:

Pigtail color -> engine color
purple - orange/black from engine
brown (abandoned)
blue - grey from engine harness
grey - light green fron engine
 

Attachments

pisco

Well-Known Member
To help clarify the situation the car had the upgraded map sensor is in it when it was wrecked it looks like instead of paying for the pigtails the previous owner soldered them together I just don’t know which wire is which
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
Follow the following and I bet it will work, however check the diagrams and make sure it all make sense:

Pigtail color -> engine color
purple - orange/black from engine
brown (abandoned)
blue - grey from engine harness
grey - light green from engine
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
That diagram is what I was looking for.
Pinout on the connector should help

Still wondering if I should replace the clutch and flywheel though.
Anybody running a lightweight flywheel in a goblin?
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I suggest you replace them while it is easily accessible.
Also, with a tune, the stock turbo will make 300 HP. So, upgrade the clutch. :)

 

pisco

Well-Known Member
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Getting a good start on the harness
Boss lady approves
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end of day one. With 2 toddlers it’s never a full day.
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My first whoops, trimming cut wires close to the connector I slipped and snipped the wrong one same color and tracer, same gauge, same length and cut at the same angle. I bought an all data diy, they are running a special so check it out if you don’t have it.
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day 2 of harness. Caught a couple more mistakes before it was too late.
almost ran a door ajar connector instead of the coolant level.
I’m not displeased with my progress but it is more tedious than I imagined.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
View attachment 19711Getting a good start on the harness
Boss lady approves
View attachment 19710
end of day one. With 2 toddlers it’s never a full day.
View attachment 19712
My first whoops, trimming cut wires close to the connector I slipped and snipped the wrong one same color and tracer, same gauge, same length and cut at the same angle. I bought an all data diy, they are running a special so check it out if you don’t have it. View attachment 19713
day 2 of harness. Caught a couple more mistakes before it was too late.
almost ran a door ajar connector instead of the coolant level.
I’m not displeased with my progress but it is more tedious than I imagined.
And you are about a third of the way done!!
 

pisco

Well-Known Member
You’re making good progress over there. I think cutting a wrong wire and having to fix it is a right of passage doing your harness.
It that happened to me at work it would be a big deal. I did feel a bit of pressure being a journeyman wireman, 15 years of industrial controls, nuclear power plants, and data centers is completely different.
min also deviating from the script and changing/adding a few things.
There are a couple grounds I have to research, not sure if they need to be grounded or they supply ground through bcm/ecm. Thanks to Brett for suggesting all data diy. I think it was $30 and another $20 for a second vehicle?
 
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