Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor)
- Thread starter pisco
- Start date
pisco
Well-Known Member
pin 34
it was cut short and taped over with the junction to the main harness from the ecm
it must have just gotten tucked into the middle of the bundle handling the wires.
off to bed, my work schedule has really been hindering progress lately
pisco
Well-Known Member
suddenly having second thoughts
Seriously considering painting the frame myself. This would allow me to make modifications and maybe in the future strip it and coat it.
pisco
Well-Known Member
I believe I have made the decision to forgo powder coat. For one third the cost of illusion lime time I’ll be rocking a hot dip galvanized frame. I figure this will be great corrosion protection that will take standard paint very well, add in the ability to modify/weld on extras and touch up and it’s a done deal.
pisco
Well-Known Member
when I took the frame to the galvanize plant they informed me it wouldn’t be possible without a 3/8” hole at both ends of each sealed section of tube. This made me sad. He said it would take thousands of lbs of force to submerge the frame and even then the sealed sections would explode (literally split the tubes) neither of these are an option so primer and paint it is. I bought “clean metal” primer and 3 quarts of rustoleum tractor and implement paint in Ford blue.
mid I ever decide I want to change it I’ll either strip it or buy a new frame hehe lucky the boss lady doesn’t read this.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Just noticed, you and I picked up the same wheel. I really like it. Picked it because I was concerned about how close the wheel would get to my chest and didn't want to modify the steering on the Goblin. The wheel is flat, as opposed to deep-dish, so it only gets about an inch and a half closer to your chest than the stock setup. Looks great, too.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
Sorry to hear that... I think a Hot dipped galv frame would have been bad @ss.
pisco
Well-Known Member
My dad said it would look like a car built out of fence rail
I wonder if there is a way without weakening the structure too much. Maybe if holes were drilled before welding so there is a passage from lower tubes through vertical braces to upper tubes or if we weld on some sort of reinforcing ring (like a fish plate) before drilling. I also considered a gusset at every seam and a hole behind it.
pisco
Well-Known Member
I got it so the quick connect didn’t push the wheel into my ribs.
price and style were also significant factors.
I wanted a suede wrapped wheel with some style and didn’t want to spend $300+
pisco
Well-Known Member
And another toy showed up. On paper it isn’t for the goblin project though I’m sure it will come in handy. Actual purpose is welding aluminum buss bars for a massive LiFePo4 battery pack that is going into a bus project a family member is working on.
they bought a 1969 MCI challenger and it is going to be a home that will drive it’s way to a farm in Nicaragua! Solar is a must on this trip. Maybe I can talk him into sending some pics for the “other builds” section.
they bought a 1969 MCI challenger and it is going to be a home that will drive it’s way to a farm in Nicaragua! Solar is a must on this trip. Maybe I can talk him into sending some pics for the “other builds” section.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
I have an Everlast 205 TIG, Really nice welder. Miss my Miller syncrowave 250 water cooled, but the space savings makes up for it.
pisco
Well-Known Member
I plan to diy a water cooler. Have had a CK-20 flex on a shelf for years from when I worked in a bakery. We couldn’t have any exposed threads and everything was stainless or aluminum so we welded our conduit racks from stainless unistrut.
The comfort and compact head on the water cooled torches is amazing.
probably going to take a few weeks to shake the rust off my technique.
