k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Blue and bronze would work great, just look at Subarus for proof
r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85
- Thread starter r3drckt
- Start date
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
Was your DF kit for the turbo or did you source the parts yourself?
The DF turbo kit has a shorter outlet from the turbo. I just looked that up Thursday night because I couldn't find it in my parts but after my forum search identified the parts bag I was able to find it.
You just need to swap the gasket over from the original to the DF part and bolt it in.
No I bought the SC kit as that’s what my donor was. Wasn’t going to use all the turbo pieces from the turbo kit so saved the money. The shorter piece wouldn’t have solved my issue though as me cutting the piece shorter didn’t stock the bar from obstructing the silicon 45 degree piece.
I’ll have to clock the cold side of the turbo to turn the port so it clears. Not a big deal.
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Today wasn’t as productive as I’d hoped it would be. Last day my nephews and sister are here so we spent some extra time with them.
Did manage to get some stuff completed though. Steering column and wheel are in, including the quick disconnect. Also got the side intakes finished. Mounted the fans for them and also the oil cooler. Mounted the regulator for the BRFPS. Was going to plumb it but was 2 AN fittings short. Those have been ordered though. Got the battery on the charger for when I attempt the first start. Also mounted the boost gauge and fuse box.
Did manage to get some stuff completed though. Steering column and wheel are in, including the quick disconnect. Also got the side intakes finished. Mounted the fans for them and also the oil cooler. Mounted the regulator for the BRFPS. Was going to plumb it but was 2 AN fittings short. Those have been ordered though. Got the battery on the charger for when I attempt the first start. Also mounted the boost gauge and fuse box.
Received the rest of my 6AN PTFE fittings yesterday and finished up the BRFP regulator plumbing. This was my first time setting one of these up, but everything I could find shows this as correct. Anyone with experience please double check for me:
Still need to run the vacuum line from the brass barb somewhere. Can I run it to this port on the intake manifold? I don’t remember what connected to this barb anyways but think it was part of the SC configuration:
Also ran 6AN line from the fuel rail to the fuel filter. Left the stock lines going to the fuel pump, but really think I will cut those off and use PTFE line or E85 rubber hose (I don’t plan to use E85, but rather be safe than sorry).
Clocked the compressor side of my turbo to provide clearance for the intake. Also adjusted the silicon elbow to accommodate the intake piping from the turbo swap kit so I know I shouldn’t have issues with the MAF sensor and pipe length that some other builders had.
Got different 16AN fittings for the radiator hoses and BOY were these ones fantastic. There was a noticeable difference in the sidewall size (thinner to flow more) and installed a million times easier than the all red ones I used at the front. The old adage “you get what you pay for” held true here. $25 vs $13 fittings.
Lastly, I mounted the manual boost regulator to the frame next to the turbo because it seemed like such a convenient spot
Still need to run the vacuum line from the brass barb somewhere. Can I run it to this port on the intake manifold? I don’t remember what connected to this barb anyways but think it was part of the SC configuration:
Also ran 6AN line from the fuel rail to the fuel filter. Left the stock lines going to the fuel pump, but really think I will cut those off and use PTFE line or E85 rubber hose (I don’t plan to use E85, but rather be safe than sorry).
Clocked the compressor side of my turbo to provide clearance for the intake. Also adjusted the silicon elbow to accommodate the intake piping from the turbo swap kit so I know I shouldn’t have issues with the MAF sensor and pipe length that some other builders had.
Got different 16AN fittings for the radiator hoses and BOY were these ones fantastic. There was a noticeable difference in the sidewall size (thinner to flow more) and installed a million times easier than the all red ones I used at the front. The old adage “you get what you pay for” held true here. $25 vs $13 fittings.
Lastly, I mounted the manual boost regulator to the frame next to the turbo because it seemed like such a convenient spot
Tonight wasn’t as successful of a night as I had hoped. Added coolant to the loop and the lower AN fitting for the radiator side started leaking. After rechecking everything was tight, found the leak to be coming from the center swivel section. I’ll have to swap that tomorrow.
Got gas and filled the tank with 5 gallons and attempted a first start on the stock tune and also on the modified tune from ZZP. It sputters and will kick on for about a second before shutting down.
P1183 is in regards to the SC I let pressure sensor so I reconnected that sensor. P0033 is for the Boost Solenoid so I reconnected that. Same thing happens though.
Now I only have Evap codes so next thing I need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge for the regulator. It’s supposed to be set to 45psi with key on, engine off. Figured zzp would’ve had it set but possibly not???
Got gas and filled the tank with 5 gallons and attempted a first start on the stock tune and also on the modified tune from ZZP. It sputters and will kick on for about a second before shutting down.
P1183 is in regards to the SC I let pressure sensor so I reconnected that sensor. P0033 is for the Boost Solenoid so I reconnected that. Same thing happens though.
Now I only have Evap codes so next thing I need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge for the regulator. It’s supposed to be set to 45psi with key on, engine off. Figured zzp would’ve had it set but possibly not???
Ross
Goblin Guru
My fuel pressure is 60 PSI -+2 PSI. I used my AC pressure gauge to measure it, as it threaded onto the LSJ fuel rail. Had to empty the fuel out of the gauge set, but I did drive it that way around the block, and watched the gauge. 62 PSI the pump cuts out, 58 PSI at full throttle, high RPM.
Little update:
Bought a cheap $6 pressure gauge from HF to try on the regulator. Went to remove the block off nut on the side of the regulator annnnnnddddd….. striped it after applying some torque. The brass is just too soft. Grabbed my vice grips and tried that…… teeth dug in deep, then stripped as well.
Backstory:
The regulator came with a fuel line attachment in the reference port originally from zzp to be used with the stock evap, but they also sent the brass barb you see in the pictures above. We’ll when I went to remove the fuel line adapter, it was so held in place that I had to use a vice and a ton of force on my wrench. The threads ended up sheering off the adapter at the end and then the adapter came out. I had to retap the port to put the brass barb in.
Both of these scenarios tell me that ZZP used thread locker to seal the ports instead of an actual thread sealant like it should of had. Now I have a useless $150 regulator because of someone else’s mistake. Since I bought it over a year ago, I doubt they will be willing to send me a new regulator. Next problem is that ZZP is the cheapest place for the 515 EFI fuelab regulator and I’m kinda reluctant to give them more money for a product I hold them responsible for.
Issue potential cause:
When I removed the regulator, I expected some fuel to come out of it. Well absolutely none came out. It didn’t smell like gas either. I put a cup under the feed line (line coming off the end of the fuel rail) and cranked. Fuel indeed was pumped out of it. So I’m thinking the regulator wasn’t holding the pressure where it needed to be for a proper idle (Alan at ZZP said to set it to 45psi key on engine off, which I needed a gauge to accurately do so). I’m half tempted to put my fuel rail pulse dampener back on and re-regulate the fuel pump to see if I can get it to run.
Bought a cheap $6 pressure gauge from HF to try on the regulator. Went to remove the block off nut on the side of the regulator annnnnnddddd….. striped it after applying some torque. The brass is just too soft. Grabbed my vice grips and tried that…… teeth dug in deep, then stripped as well.
Backstory:
The regulator came with a fuel line attachment in the reference port originally from zzp to be used with the stock evap, but they also sent the brass barb you see in the pictures above. We’ll when I went to remove the fuel line adapter, it was so held in place that I had to use a vice and a ton of force on my wrench. The threads ended up sheering off the adapter at the end and then the adapter came out. I had to retap the port to put the brass barb in.
Both of these scenarios tell me that ZZP used thread locker to seal the ports instead of an actual thread sealant like it should of had. Now I have a useless $150 regulator because of someone else’s mistake. Since I bought it over a year ago, I doubt they will be willing to send me a new regulator. Next problem is that ZZP is the cheapest place for the 515 EFI fuelab regulator and I’m kinda reluctant to give them more money for a product I hold them responsible for.
Issue potential cause:
When I removed the regulator, I expected some fuel to come out of it. Well absolutely none came out. It didn’t smell like gas either. I put a cup under the feed line (line coming off the end of the fuel rail) and cranked. Fuel indeed was pumped out of it. So I’m thinking the regulator wasn’t holding the pressure where it needed to be for a proper idle (Alan at ZZP said to set it to 45psi key on engine off, which I needed a gauge to accurately do so). I’m half tempted to put my fuel rail pulse dampener back on and re-regulate the fuel pump to see if I can get it to run.
So I got it running and the issue was with how I had the BRFPS routed. I originally had both lines of the fuel pump to the fuel filter > the fuel rail > out the end of the FR to the BRFPS > down to the gas tank for return. Car would try to start, might get a second of run before dieing. I knew I had spark, fuel and compression because of this so wasn’t a ground issue anywhere or a mechanical issue from my assembly. But it seemed like it wasn’t getting enough fuel since it wouldn’t sustain running.
looking at OTTP’s website, I remember they had a fuel filter for their BRFPS and it had a single in and single out (also called a 2 port, not a 3 port like the factory filter). I had a filter from somewhere (maybe I ordered it and don’t remember???) that was a single inlet and single outlet and decided to give this a try. Now it runs, albeit I have to press the gas to get it to start and a few times until it starts to idle by itself. I’m thinking this is because I need to fine tune the fuel pressure at the regulator, but I can’t do that without a gauge. So I’ll still need to get a new regulator, but SHES RUNNING FINALLY!!!!
Running setup goes like this:
Fuel pump outlet line to filter > fuel rail > BRFPS > Fuel pump return line
looking at OTTP’s website, I remember they had a fuel filter for their BRFPS and it had a single in and single out (also called a 2 port, not a 3 port like the factory filter). I had a filter from somewhere (maybe I ordered it and don’t remember???) that was a single inlet and single outlet and decided to give this a try. Now it runs, albeit I have to press the gas to get it to start and a few times until it starts to idle by itself. I’m thinking this is because I need to fine tune the fuel pressure at the regulator, but I can’t do that without a gauge. So I’ll still need to get a new regulator, but SHES RUNNING FINALLY!!!!
Running setup goes like this:
Fuel pump outlet line to filter > fuel rail > BRFPS > Fuel pump return line
I’ve never hooked up a fuel pressure regulator before, and there’s no clear guides anywhere that say how to set it up. They all just say “this is the return line.” Didn’t tell me if that was a factory return line to the evap, filter, or dump to the tank. I assumed it was just a straight dump to the tank so that’s what I did. But it wasn’t running so tried another setup and got it running thankfully
Little Update:
Tried to fill my radiator lines with coolant about a week ago and the AN fittings started leaking. Was using ORB > radiator fittings so figured it would be fine. Forgot that AN fittings have a 37 degree seat that seals the line and thought that was my issue. Purchased some 16 AN > radiator fittings from Jeggs that had the taper so they'd seal........ They also leaked. So I'm at the point of saying F*ck it and just pull the SS lines out and running rubber lines through the rails as intended. K.I.S.S.
The issue with the AN lines is that the coolant was leaking out of the pin on the swivel side of the AN fitting and partially under the swivel. Reading online they say that is caused by over tightening and damaging the seat. Only way to fix is with a new fitting or you could try conical seals for AN fittings. At $17 for 2, I really don't wanna try conical seals. At $25 per AN fitting (quality fitting, not the cheap $12 ones that broke from Amazon that I originally purchased), I don't wanna buy 2 more of those after having purchased 4 and fighting to get them on the hoses to begin with.
Tried to fill my radiator lines with coolant about a week ago and the AN fittings started leaking. Was using ORB > radiator fittings so figured it would be fine. Forgot that AN fittings have a 37 degree seat that seals the line and thought that was my issue. Purchased some 16 AN > radiator fittings from Jeggs that had the taper so they'd seal........ They also leaked. So I'm at the point of saying F*ck it and just pull the SS lines out and running rubber lines through the rails as intended. K.I.S.S.
The issue with the AN lines is that the coolant was leaking out of the pin on the swivel side of the AN fitting and partially under the swivel. Reading online they say that is caused by over tightening and damaging the seat. Only way to fix is with a new fitting or you could try conical seals for AN fittings. At $17 for 2, I really don't wanna try conical seals. At $25 per AN fitting (quality fitting, not the cheap $12 ones that broke from Amazon that I originally purchased), I don't wanna buy 2 more of those after having purchased 4 and fighting to get them on the hoses to begin with.
Fixed the leaking SS lines for my radiator. Ended up sourcing some conical seals from the local rubber & specialties store. They were able to get 4 for $12 thankfully. They had an ever so slight tack to them to help seal as well which was a huge plus. Put them on all 4 of the -16 AN > radiator adapters (even though 2 of the 4 leaked originally). Hand tighten, filled, all 4 needed a 25 degree turn tighter and the leaks stopped.
Of course, fix one problem, 2 more show up, right? The water cooling lines for the turbo then started to leak. The z57 has 4 ports for water (2 front and 2 back). 2 of them are sealed with a bolt and copper washer, while the other 2 have banjo bolts. 1 bolt just needed to be tightened, the other bolt needed a new copper washer. Both banjo bolts needed to be tightened as well. Fixed the coolant leak at the turbo!
NOT MY FIRST START! But a running video none the less. See it on Instagram Here
Installed the fuel pressure gauge post fuel rail before the FPR (since the bolt on the regulator wanted to strip from lock tight). Dialed in the fuel pressure to 45 key on engine off per Al’s instructions from ZZP.
Installed my Seibon Carbon GT wang. Officially part of the #wangclub. The cross support bar was drying from the rattle can when I snapped the picture
Of course, fix one problem, 2 more show up, right? The water cooling lines for the turbo then started to leak. The z57 has 4 ports for water (2 front and 2 back). 2 of them are sealed with a bolt and copper washer, while the other 2 have banjo bolts. 1 bolt just needed to be tightened, the other bolt needed a new copper washer. Both banjo bolts needed to be tightened as well. Fixed the coolant leak at the turbo!
NOT MY FIRST START! But a running video none the less. See it on Instagram Here
Installed the fuel pressure gauge post fuel rail before the FPR (since the bolt on the regulator wanted to strip from lock tight). Dialed in the fuel pressure to 45 key on engine off per Al’s instructions from ZZP.
Installed my Seibon Carbon GT wang. Officially part of the #wangclub. The cross support bar was drying from the rattle can when I snapped the picture
Lots of progress made today. Last things to do is mount the master cylinder assembly, bleed the brakes and the clutch, add fluid to the trans and I can take the car on its maiden voyage! Footwell cover, hood and side panels not included of course.
Broke one of the ebrake tubes trying to straighten it out a bit, so ended up buying some metal conduit and cutting 2 x 27” pieces to simulate the brake tubes. Worked out great! Provides flexibility to route the lines as needed, with a metal shielding to protect the line from anything that might grab the cables while driving. E-brake officially installed!
Next I installed the factory shifter assembly. While I have the aftermarket aluminum one from the group buy, I haven’t cleaned up the pieces yet. So they will get completed at a later date.
Installed my Braum seats and harnesses. Only 4 points instead of 5. While it didn’t ride up on me during my test fit, I can see how it would. But the ease of the buckle will make my casual drives easier, particularly for my passengers.
I also added some protective foam to the top rails (as you can see) to protect it from getting in and out of the chassis, but also to give comfort to the arm rest.
Not gonna lie, was started to think I was never going to finish this project. Glad I’m almost done with it though. I probably won’t build a second goblin (if I do, it won’t be as nice as this one, that’s for sure!)
Broke one of the ebrake tubes trying to straighten it out a bit, so ended up buying some metal conduit and cutting 2 x 27” pieces to simulate the brake tubes. Worked out great! Provides flexibility to route the lines as needed, with a metal shielding to protect the line from anything that might grab the cables while driving. E-brake officially installed!
Next I installed the factory shifter assembly. While I have the aftermarket aluminum one from the group buy, I haven’t cleaned up the pieces yet. So they will get completed at a later date.
Installed my Braum seats and harnesses. Only 4 points instead of 5. While it didn’t ride up on me during my test fit, I can see how it would. But the ease of the buckle will make my casual drives easier, particularly for my passengers.
I also added some protective foam to the top rails (as you can see) to protect it from getting in and out of the chassis, but also to give comfort to the arm rest.
Not gonna lie, was started to think I was never going to finish this project. Glad I’m almost done with it though. I probably won’t build a second goblin (if I do, it won’t be as nice as this one, that’s for sure!)
My front calipers didn’t come with banjo bolts (new calipers from DF). Are all caliper banjo bolts the same or does anyone know what make/model they are from (I’m assuming normal cobalt calipers) to source new banjo bolts? The rear calipers with parking brake came with banjo bolts, only need them for the front.
Awesome, thank you! I’m gonna source new clips as well as the old ones look bad
List of things completed since last update:
-SS lines
-brake booster
-master cylinder
-proportioning valve
-remote reservoir
-new hoses for the reservoir to MC and clutch MC
-added MT90 to the trans
-fitted the footwell cover
Things to complete before first drive:
-bleed brakes
-bleed clutch
-wire radiator fan
-wire HE fans
-fix hose leak from old oil cooler posts
-SS lines
-brake booster
-master cylinder
-proportioning valve
-remote reservoir
-new hoses for the reservoir to MC and clutch MC
-added MT90 to the trans
-fitted the footwell cover
Things to complete before first drive:
-bleed brakes
-bleed clutch
-wire radiator fan
-wire HE fans
-fix hose leak from old oil cooler posts
Little update:
Bled the brakes tonight. Got a solid pedal thankfully. Took longer than expected to get the air out of the lines, was thinking it wasn’t working. Also happy to report no leaks at any of my connections!
Things to complete:
Bleed clutch
Wire radiator fan
Wire HE fans
Fix hose leak at thermostat
Bled the brakes tonight. Got a solid pedal thankfully. Took longer than expected to get the air out of the lines, was thinking it wasn’t working. Also happy to report no leaks at any of my connections!
Things to complete:
Bleed clutch
Wire radiator fan
Wire HE fans
Fix hose leak at thermostat