r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Al from ZZP said the error is usually seen with Trifecta tuned PCMs. Hate that they lock the PCM. I know someone else had this issue on the forum so I will have to poke around to find what their solution was.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
My issue is different than ZoomZoom’s. Different error messages with HPT, leading me to believe that I have data wire issues. Since my fuel pump tries to pick up, the starter kicks on and tries to turn the engine over, and I’m getting lights on the dash, I’m thinking (please correct me if I’m wrong) that the issues is down to the twisted pair of data wires? Would this be my High Speed GMLAN wires at the OBDII, Pin 6 and 14? If I connect a continuity tester to these pins, I should get a reading, correct?

6E92FF71-6EA9-4C4D-9999-F16C006CE453.gif


I tried using my OBDLink adapter on the OBDII and it can’t connect. It worked before tear down though.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
What do you mean by data wire issues? Hook up an ohm meter and you should read 60 ohms if the CAN bus termination is correct. Then hook up a scanner and see if you have data integrity. If the scanner isn’t reading, then there is an issue to resolve.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Your OBDII port's high speed LAN wires connect to the power steering. If your power steering computer is dead, then you won't get a signal. If the power steering is working, then it can relay an LAN data to the BCM. the BCM can relay data to the ECM. Each of these connections require the data wires to be connected correctly, and that the computer(power steering, BCM, ECM) be working correctly.
So you need to check continuity on a few wires.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
What do you mean by data wire issues? Hook up an ohm meter and you should read 60 ohms if the CAN bus termination is correct. Then hook up a scanner and see if you have data integrity. If the scanner isn’t reading, then there is an issue to resolve.
I’m assuming an ohm meter to pins 6 and 14 is what you’re referencing? I’m thinking it’s this chain that is potentially crossed somewhere as it gets extended during the harness work. I’m guessing I crossed the connections somewhere, but I’ll check with the multimeter in the morning.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Your OBDII port's high speed LAN wires connect to the power steering. If your power steering computer is dead, then you won't get a signal. If the power steering is working, then it can relay an LAN data to the BCM. the BCM can relay data to the ECM. Each of these connections require the data wires to be connected correctly, and that the computer(power steering, BCM, ECM) be working correctly.
So you need to check continuity on a few wires.
I made sure I had all of the wires plugged into the power steering module (including the 2 large connectors for the electric motor) when I did this. Even connected the turn signal switch, ambient light, etc. so I wasn’t causing a break anywhere (besides headlights and tail lights). If I connect a multi meter to pins 6 and 14 on the OBD, I should be able to tell if there’s a break somewhere in the system before having to strip my harness again, right? Or should I just go end to end on each individual wire (OBD pin 6 to EPS C2 Pin 1, etc.)?
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I’m assuming an ohm meter to pins 6 and 14 is what you’re referencing? I’m thinking it’s this chain that is potentially crossed somewhere as it gets extended during the harness work. I’m guessing I crossed the connections somewhere, but I’ll check with the multimeter in the morning.
Yes. Check the beige and beige w/ black stripe data wires anywhere on the harness or at pins 6/14. If you are not reading 60 ohms between those two wires throughout the harness then you have a wiring issue that needs to be resolved.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
OBDII Pins 6/14 readings below:
59.4 ohms with battery disconnected
60.4 ohms with battery connected and key off
Auto switches to ~0.3V when I turn the key on

Using a cheap kobalt digital multimeter (DT-946)

Not sure what else to check. Those data wires appear to be correct, I’m assuming the voltage switch is because it is passing data. Any other suggestions?
 
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
OBDII Pins 6/14 readings below:
59.4 ohms with battery disconnected
60.4 ohms with battery connected and key off
Auto switches to ~0.3V when I turn the key on

Using a cheap kobalt digital multimeter (DT-946)

Not sure what else to check. Those data wires appear to be correct, I’m assuming the voltage switch is because it is passing data. Any other suggestions?
If you hook up a regular scanner, does it communicate and see the BCM/ECM?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I made sure I had all of the wires plugged into the power steering module (including the 2 large connectors for the electric motor) when I did this. Even connected the turn signal switch, ambient light, etc. so I wasn’t causing a break anywhere (besides headlights and tail lights). If I connect a multi meter to pins 6 and 14 on the OBD, I should be able to tell if there’s a break somewhere in the system before having to strip my harness again, right? Or should I just go end to end on each individual wire (OBD pin 6 to EPS C2 Pin 1, etc.)?
I would go end to end on each wire, before stripping your harness. That way you know if you flipped the wires accidentally.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I would go end to end on each wire, before stripping your harness. That way you know if you flipped the wires accidentally.
If a wire got crossed though, wouldn’t it not complete the circuit and not provide an ohm reading? I started doing individual continuity checks, but stopped based on this logic and since everything was passing thus far (with no resistance of course).
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Well, if you crossed the twisted wire pair between two computers, it would pass the continuity test... but the computers wouldn't be able to communicate.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Just checked the continuity on all my fuses as well and don’t have any blown fuses. Also checked the large power steering plug was receiving the 12v with the battery connected. Out of curiosity, do I have the red power cord in the correct slot in the fuse box? Also my blocks are in the correct place?

Just to eliminate the possibility of a missed ground, I have 3 at the engine side of the harness (starter, 1 on harness, 1 from fuse block), 3 in the middle, and then the 1 at the front for the battery terminal.
 

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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Checked the terminals where the blue EPS plugs in and I’m getting nothing there with the key in the run position. I don’t think the EPS module is bad because it appears the high speed GMLAN is working since the engine will try to crank. I also hear the BCM click when I switch the ignition to start (not holding the clutch so starter doesn’t kick on). Checked power to the red BCM plug, the red power at the fuse block in the above picture, also at the + post in the fuse box. Gauge cluster just cycles “low fuel” and “low coolant” with the CEL, BRAKE, Airbag, and ABS lights on.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Just checked the continuity on all my fuses as well and don’t have any blown fuses. Also checked the large power steering plug was receiving the 12v with the battery connected. Out of curiosity, do I have the red power cord in the correct slot in the fuse box? Also my blocks are in the correct place?

Just to eliminate the possibility of a missed ground, I have 3 at the engine side of the harness (starter, 1 on harness, 1 from fuse block), 3 in the middle, and then the 1 at the front for the battery terminal.
The red power cord only fits in the correct hole... so you are good.
Your BCM is talking to your gauge cluster on the low speed LAN, as it is saying: low fuel, low coolant, etc.
So I think your BCM isn't able to talk to the ECM.
You have the 7mm fuse box blocks snugged up tight? Maybe loosen them, and tighten them up again.
Same with the grounds, loosen, clean, tighten.
I can take a picture of my fuse box, just to check the relay blocks.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I pulled this out of my 2nd donor yesterday, so it is completely stock:
22947


This is out of my Goblin:
22948
 
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