I believe they had to replace the pcmAl from ZZP said the error is usually seen with Trifecta tuned PCMs. Hate that they lock the PCM. I know someone else had this issue on the forum so I will have to poke around to find what their solution was.
Yes I believe you’re right. I thought there was some other issues with the swap though such as some relearns or something.I believe they had to replace the pcm
I’m assuming an ohm meter to pins 6 and 14 is what you’re referencing? I’m thinking it’s this chain that is potentially crossed somewhere as it gets extended during the harness work. I’m guessing I crossed the connections somewhere, but I’ll check with the multimeter in the morning.What do you mean by data wire issues? Hook up an ohm meter and you should read 60 ohms if the CAN bus termination is correct. Then hook up a scanner and see if you have data integrity. If the scanner isn’t reading, then there is an issue to resolve.
I made sure I had all of the wires plugged into the power steering module (including the 2 large connectors for the electric motor) when I did this. Even connected the turn signal switch, ambient light, etc. so I wasn’t causing a break anywhere (besides headlights and tail lights). If I connect a multi meter to pins 6 and 14 on the OBD, I should be able to tell if there’s a break somewhere in the system before having to strip my harness again, right? Or should I just go end to end on each individual wire (OBD pin 6 to EPS C2 Pin 1, etc.)?Your OBDII port's high speed LAN wires connect to the power steering. If your power steering computer is dead, then you won't get a signal. If the power steering is working, then it can relay an LAN data to the BCM. the BCM can relay data to the ECM. Each of these connections require the data wires to be connected correctly, and that the computer(power steering, BCM, ECM) be working correctly.
So you need to check continuity on a few wires.
Yes. Check the beige and beige w/ black stripe data wires anywhere on the harness or at pins 6/14. If you are not reading 60 ohms between those two wires throughout the harness then you have a wiring issue that needs to be resolved.I’m assuming an ohm meter to pins 6 and 14 is what you’re referencing? I’m thinking it’s this chain that is potentially crossed somewhere as it gets extended during the harness work. I’m guessing I crossed the connections somewhere, but I’ll check with the multimeter in the morning.
If you hook up a regular scanner, does it communicate and see the BCM/ECM?OBDII Pins 6/14 readings below:
59.4 ohms with battery disconnected
60.4 ohms with battery connected and key off
Auto switches to ~0.3V when I turn the key on
Using a cheap kobalt digital multimeter (DT-946)
Not sure what else to check. Those data wires appear to be correct, I’m assuming the voltage switch is because it is passing data. Any other suggestions?
I used my OBDLink Bluetooth adapter and it had communication errors. Worked before tear down though.If you hook up a regular scanner, does it communicate and see the BCM/ECM?
I would go end to end on each wire, before stripping your harness. That way you know if you flipped the wires accidentally.I made sure I had all of the wires plugged into the power steering module (including the 2 large connectors for the electric motor) when I did this. Even connected the turn signal switch, ambient light, etc. so I wasn’t causing a break anywhere (besides headlights and tail lights). If I connect a multi meter to pins 6 and 14 on the OBD, I should be able to tell if there’s a break somewhere in the system before having to strip my harness again, right? Or should I just go end to end on each individual wire (OBD pin 6 to EPS C2 Pin 1, etc.)?
If a wire got crossed though, wouldn’t it not complete the circuit and not provide an ohm reading? I started doing individual continuity checks, but stopped based on this logic and since everything was passing thus far (with no resistance of course).I would go end to end on each wire, before stripping your harness. That way you know if you flipped the wires accidentally.
The red power cord only fits in the correct hole... so you are good.Just checked the continuity on all my fuses as well and don’t have any blown fuses. Also checked the large power steering plug was receiving the 12v with the battery connected. Out of curiosity, do I have the red power cord in the correct slot in the fuse box? Also my blocks are in the correct place?
Just to eliminate the possibility of a missed ground, I have 3 at the engine side of the harness (starter, 1 on harness, 1 from fuse block), 3 in the middle, and then the 1 at the front for the battery terminal.