r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
If it ran okay before it should be fine. The water would have to be about the intake to be able to get into the engine
I'll bet the block is fine. They are pretty sealed on the lower half. The BCM is the only thing of electronics that may have some damage or corrosion.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
BCM is perfectly fine. All electronics worked on the car before tear down and during my engine test so I’m not worried there. I only worry about the block because even a slight oil leak at the oil pan will allow water in (although I didn’t notice any oil leak on the floor during the time it was parked.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
The pressure plate bolts were so corroded that they stripped instantly. Had to use a bunch of cut off wheels for my Dremel to cut the pressure plate at the bolts so I could get to the flywheel bolts to remove that as well. Good thing I planned on replacing all of that stuff anyways. Corrosion on the block and starter (of course) so will get the block hot tanked and cleaned by a local shop as well as honed so I can start assembly with the new parts.

The transmission fluid wasn’t milky looking and looked like normal gear oil so I don’t believe any water got in there. The drain bolt has a built in magnet and it had a decent amount of shavings on it. I’m not holding my breath for this transmission to last much longer. I’ll get it cleaned up (probably soda blast it to remove the corrosion) and mounted back up after the rebuild.

New starter, intermediate shaft bearing (busted mine trying to hammer out the passenger cv axle), new drive shafts, steering shaft, and a Haynes manual on the way.

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The pressure plate bolts were so corroded that they stripped instantly. Had to use a bunch of cut off wheels for my Dremel to cut the pressure plate at the bolts so I could get to the flywheel bolts to remove that as well. Good thing I planned on replacing all of that stuff anyways. Corrosion on the block and starter (of course) so will get the block hot tanked and cleaned by a local shop as well as honed so I can start assembly with the new parts.

The transmission fluid wasn’t milky looking and looked like normal gear oil so I don’t believe any water got in there. The drain bolt has a built in magnet and it had a decent amount of shavings on it. I’m not holding my breath for this transmission to last much longer. I’ll get it cleaned up (probably soda blast it to remove the corrosion) and mounted back up after the rebuild.

New starter, intermediate shaft bearing (busted mine trying to hammer out the passenger cv axle), new drive shafts, steering shaft, and a Haynes manual on the way.

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Be certain to keep the spacer in the second photo, it will be needed. Those are becoming very hard to locate.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Ya I remember that discussion somewhere else on the forum. Going to try ZEPP industrial cleaner on it and soda blasting maybe
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Might be beneficial to have it traced or drawn up in CAD for future reference for other who need it on here. With their new fancy CNC machine, DF might be able to make these for customers @Lonny
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Got the engine moved to the engine stand. Although I wasn’t thinking and mounted the lower bolts to the lower oil pan >.< so I’ll have to dismount it with the hoist and readjust, but I’ll do that once I have the top side stripped down.

Drained the oil out of the pan and it didn’t appear to have water in it. Staying hopeful for the inside of the engine so far. I’ll get it stripped throughout the week so I can send the block, oil pan, and valve cover to the cleaners.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Started the engine tear down tonight. I’ll finish it tomorrow since it’s 01:35 at the moment. I believe the head on the timing chain guide bolt did in fact break off. It’s loose behind the outer bolt and I don’t think it was a matter of being finger tight during assembly. I’ll find out for sure tomorrow when I get the front end disassembled and the head pulled. Some tools to note for those who are looking to do this: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 32mm sockets are all needed, as well as a tiny E5 torx bit, 6mm and 10mm Allen wrenches. The 32mm is for the timing chain tensioner bolt, but can be substituted with an adjustable wrench (mine was torqued now pretty good though).
Anyone know how to remove the dip stick tube? I hear they are unobtainium so I don’t want to break mine.
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Lokian

Well-Known Member
Dip stick tube has 2 seals that hold it in. You can usually twist a little and pull it out. Be really careful as it is thin metal that can be twisted off. I broke mine that way and had to drop the oil pan to get it out. But I did not have a hard time sourcing a new tube for a 2010 LS that is.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Thanks @Lokian. Since I'm stripping the block anyways, I'll try to get it out from the bottom side. I was spinning the tube in circles on the block at first thinking it was screwed in, then tried pulling on it and it wouldn't come out.
 

Lokian

Well-Known Member
Thanks @Lokian. Since I'm stripping the block anyways, I'll try to get it out from the bottom side. I was spinning the tube in circles on the block at first thinking it was screwed in, then tried pulling on it and it wouldn't come out.
It has a lip on the tube so you have to pull it out. The lip should be visible from the outside and sit against the outside. I was able to get the broken piece by taking off the oil pan after snapping the tube.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Block is completely stripped. Thankfully everything inside the engine looks good. No cracks in the cylinders, all pistons in good shape, the only issue was the timing chain guide bolt did in fact break like it’s known to do, so the guide was loose and caused the bolt to stay in the head and gouge a divot into the side wall. The head is being replaced with a ported head from zzp (whenever they ship it that is, it’s been 2 weeks now) so not worried about the minor damage.
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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Supposed to be getting the engine back from the machine shop this week so I can start assembly before going on orders next week. One thing that I want to add during the process though is a wideband. I've seen 2 different kits mentioned on the forums and I've also read where one was causing connection issues with HPTuners.

AEM 30-0300
AEM 30-4110

Which will work with the non-Pro variant of HPTuners and won't cause issues? Since I'm doing the turbo swap during the engine rebuild, I'm going to be starting with a baseline tune and I'd like to have the AFR setup to dial in the tune the first time.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I might be able to pull my ZZP ldk/z54 tune off using HP tuners and give you the file as a baseline? I don't know if that will work or not?

Nuker-
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I might be able to pull my ZZP ldk/z54 tune off using HP tuners and give you the file as a baseline? I don't know if that will work or not?

Nuker-
Thanks for the offer, but I have a base tune waiting from ZZP in my email from Al. I bought their intro turbo kit with the z57 so they're doing the tuning with that purchase. I mentioned it's for the goblin if I needed to pay more and he said don't worry about it. He's been really easy to work with so far. I just hate leaving him hanging waiting for me to get the assembly done.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Supposed to be getting the engine back from the machine shop this week so I can start assembly before going on orders next week. One thing that I want to add during the process though is a wideband. I've seen 2 different kits mentioned on the forums and I've also read where one was causing connection issues with HPTuners.

AEM 30-0300
AEM 30-4110

Which will work with the non-Pro variant of HPTuners and won't cause issues? Since I'm doing the turbo swap during the engine rebuild, I'm going to be starting with a baseline tune and I'd like to have the AFR setup to dial in the tune the first time.
Either one works well. I have both. You will need to get a serial to USB adapter for the laptop. Theses can be finicky. It's takes a bit to get it set up correctly, but it works. I think the serial data tends to be slow compared to the Pro analog set up from what I noticed. But it works.
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Either one works well. I have both. You will need to get a serial to USB adapter for the laptop. Theses can be finicky. It's takes a bit to get it set up correctly, but it works. I think the serial data tends to be slow compared to the Pro analog set up from what I noticed. But it works.
Would you recommend upgrading to pro and getting an analog setup?
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
My HP Tunders I just bought a month ago is straight from OBDII to USB A (the normal USB) now no serial needed. So you might look for that version.

Nuker-
 

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
My HP Tunders I just bought a month ago is straight from OBDII to USB A (the normal USB) now no serial needed. So you might look for that version.

Nuker-
I have the MPVI2 version, but if you want to use an analog AFR gauge then you have to use the side adapter plug and wire the AFR to that. If you use a digital one, you get the serial to usb and wire the AFR sensor to a serial>usb adapter and plug straight to the PC, then set HPTuner to utilize that as a secondary input if I’m understanding @ctuinstra correctly.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I have the MPVI2 version, but if you want to use an analog AFR gauge then you have to use the side adapter plug and wire the AFR to that. If you use a digital one, you get the serial to usb and wire the AFR sensor to a serial>usb adapter and plug straight to the PC, then set HPTuner to utilize that as a secondary input if I’m understanding @ctuinstra correctly.
You are correct. HP Tuners goes from OBDII port to USB, without the wideband signal, unless you go to HP Tuners Pro, and use one of the two side inputs. The regular HP Tuners software (VCM Scanner) can get the wideband signal via a second USB input on your tuning laptop.
 
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