Rauq's Twincharged LSJ in SC - #240 - GOBZILA

Corgithulhu

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
That's fair. I wasn't expecting much of a return on the shell, so getting 50 bucks would be fine with me. I have considered the craiglist attempt, but I'm nervous about those morons. In fact, I'm nervous about it in general for all the parts I don't need that can be sold on....I just hate the craiglist morons and dealing with negotiating on a stupid 14 year old door. And that whole "what's your bottom dollar" school of negotiating for idiots.
 
SmsDetroit

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Corgithulhu said:
That's fair. I wasn't expecting much of a return on the shell, so getting 50 bucks would be fine with me. I have considered the craiglist attempt, but I'm nervous about those morons. In fact, I'm nervous about it in general for all the parts I don't need that can be sold on....I just hate the craiglist morons and dealing with negotiating on a stupid 14 year old door. And that whole "what's your bottom dollar" school of negotiating for idiots.
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I cut mine up into 5 pieces. Then took it to a scrap yard. I got $95 for it. Metal prices are through the roof right now. Also if you cut it up you can keep the title
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
SC doesn't require you to turn in a title to scrap something over 12 years old. This is one of those processes that varies on a state-by-state basis.

Also, I think I'm far enough through my registration process to say I won't need the donor title anyway (again, depends on the state, but this is the situation for South Carolina).
 
Corgithulhu

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
I figured the title was fairly irrelevant, but I want to keep it in my possession just in case. It's like Schrodinger's Title: as soon as I let it go with the car, it becomes necessary by whoever I talk to at the DMV, and if I keep it, it's nothing more than decoration.

Plus it's titled in Minnesota instead of Florida where it lived, and also instead of NC where I bought it. The date on the title is 2017, so I think the insurance company (Geico maybe?) totaled it and gave it a salvage title in MN. Since the guy who bought it from auction couldn't do anything with the salvage title, he never titled it in his name and left it with the insurance details. It's a mess, and hopefully the DMV doesn't even ask about it lol....luckily I did have him sign a bill of sale with basic car info and addresses on it. You know - just in case.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I don't expect to have an update on registration for a least a little while, but here's where I'm at currently.

On Thursday I took a trip to the Greer DMV with no progress other than the phone number of a DMV agent who could sign some paperwork for me. I was told that titling and registration could be done at the same time by mail through the head DMV office (Blythewood, SC), if I also had a paid property tax receipt. I took my MCO and DFKC invoice with matching invoice number to my county tax assessor, got a tax bill, paid it, and got a receipt. I also called the DMV agent and scheduled for them to take a look at my car the following Friday at noon. It is the Form 4038 that requires the signature of a DMV agent, I have a phone number and permission to share it with other Upstate Goblin builders. Do note this is not the dude's top priority so he will only schedule at his convenience, although he did manage to get to me next-day. He's just confirming the serial number tag from DF is on the car and it matches your MCO from DF.

Then, I sent into the DMV office in Blythewood SC by mail on Friday:
  • Form 400, title registration
  • Form 4038, affidavit of a specially constructed vehicle, with DMV agent signature
  • MV96, personalized plate application (optional)
  • $15 check for title
  • $70 check for tag ($40, + $30 for the personalized plate)
  • MCO
  • Printed invoice from DF (important that the invoice number matches what's on the MCO)
  • Tax receipt
  • Proof of insurance
  • Pictures of the car including a close-up of the serial number tag riveted to the frame, and a zoomed-out view highlighting where the serial number tag is located
Will definitely report back if/when I find out if I did this wrong or right.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Mixed news, looks like I got everything right in my title/registration/plate paperwork except for missing a check for the SC IMF fee. They mailed all of my paperwork back to me with a note on that topic, so I wrote an extra check and mailed the whole packet back to them. I take that to mean that, were it not for the IMF fee, I'd have my plate by now. Fingers crossed they get that back and processed and I can get my plate within the next week or two. Will confirm once I get my plate that the process is as confirmed as any DMV process can be. In the plus column, they told me my requested personalized plate would be on hold for 30 days as I resubmit my paperwork, so that's cool.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
So the fuel pump is turning on, and trying to prime itself? Or the electrical signal is not turning on?
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I finally found it. Login info here.
Do you know how to use a meter to check for ground at the relay, check for power at the relay, check for fuel pump relay signal?
24168
 
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Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
The only time I've ever gotten nothing from the fuel pump was when I didn't have the connector at the tank plugged in, and I've managed to do that more than a few times. I believe the connector to the fuel hat is the same as the MAF and a few other connectors so there may be some potential to get those mixed up. If I recall the functionality correctly, the pump will run for about 5 seconds with the key switched to on and then shut off and it won't run again until you crank it.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Great! You have power at 2 of the pins (30 & 86). You did this test with the key turned on, in order to have power at 86.
36963

36964
As viewed from the fuse box or top of the relay.

Now do you have ground to 85?
87 should be ground after going thru a 15amp fuse, and then fuel pump motor. If you pull the fuse, you loose ground. Weird but true. That is why your fuse is showing no power... it is fused after the relay.

If you run jumper wire from 30 to 87, does the fuel pump start? (You probably already did this to empty your fuel tank when it was in the Cobalt.)
36966
36965


My fuel pump wires have 5V reference on the purple wire. I can't seem to find 12V on these wires... I think the fuel pump only turns on when it has low fuel pressure or something, as I can't seem to get it to show me which wire starts the pump. The pump doesn't turn on every time I turn the key... so somehow it knows it already has pressure.
24182


My fuel pump wire colors don't agree with this ALL Data chart. Wierd. Probably different for the SS, and I am looking at the stock connector.
Here is the corrected colors on the AllData diagram:
45137
 
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Bajakid1450

Bajakid1450

Well-Known Member
I know right now the only issues left to figure out is to do a idle relearn, and adjusting the shifter cable linkages maybe I’ll figure those out after work or next weekend
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Nope.

5/7 mailed a packet, 1st attempt
5/10 received at SC DMV (DMV closed, Confederate Memorial Day)
5/14 paperwork stamped received
5/19 return packet postmarked
5/20 return packet received (forgot $500 IMF)
5/21 new packet sent
5/24 USPS confirmed delivery to DMV
6/11 SC DMV confirmed paperwork not yet received into system (not visible electronically)

They've told me twice I should allow for 20 business days for them to receive/process paperwork. I'm checking my bank account daily to see if/when they cash the checks. I'm 90% sure I have everything in order now, the only thing I was missing on the first go-around was the $500 IMF.
 
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