Bajakid1450
Well-Known Member
What’s a IMF?
Rauq's Twincharged LSJ in SC - #240 - GOBZILA
- Thread starter Rauq
- Start date
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
Infrastructure Maintenance Fee. Basically the alternative to a sales tax in SC, if I understand correctly.
Bajakid1450
Well-Known Member
Gotcha what did the insurance company value your car at ?
baustin
Well-Known Member
I only had to wait 11+ months for my title... I know each state varies but you've got a few to go till that much time has passed.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
20k
I knew it was borderline foolishly optimistic to think that if they could get my paperwork stamped as received and then back to me within 2 weeks that they'd receive it within 2 weeks on my second attempt, but we'll see.
jamesm
Goblin Guru
It's super cool until you get a letter from the IRS... Then you spend all day worrying about it...
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
What have you done in the meantime? Does SC issue a temp tag or something so you can drive it around before getting the plate?
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I have trailered it to an autocross and a car show but haven't driven it on the street.
I'm thinking back and trying to remember why I was under the impression that the paperwork for the tag had to be sent in with the paperwork for the title, but I can't remember if there was a reason or what it would've been. I'm not sure if it would've been faster to take my title that I received last week and walked into my local DMV to get the tag, which I assume I could've done. But I also applied for a customized plate and I don't think they print them locally (do they?) so I would've been waiting for that anyway. There is a temp tag application form for $15 which I assume I could've done if I'd applied for the custom tag at the DMV in person, which would've been handy while waiting for the plate to show up, but oh well. I've waited this long, I can wait for a little while longer.
I'm thinking back and trying to remember why I was under the impression that the paperwork for the tag had to be sent in with the paperwork for the title, but I can't remember if there was a reason or what it would've been. I'm not sure if it would've been faster to take my title that I received last week and walked into my local DMV to get the tag, which I assume I could've done. But I also applied for a customized plate and I don't think they print them locally (do they?) so I would've been waiting for that anyway. There is a temp tag application form for $15 which I assume I could've done if I'd applied for the custom tag at the DMV in person, which would've been handy while waiting for the plate to show up, but oh well. I've waited this long, I can wait for a little while longer.
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
Well to my knowledge on how plates are made, it's kind of like old typesetting where an individual actually changes letters and numbers for every single plate that rolls by (and I would assume the plates are fairly sequential to minimize character changeouts). So I'd assume custom plates are just orders that get slotted in where they completely change the characters to your choice, which might add a few days since they can't pick one up off the pile on hand at the DMV locally and just give it to you.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Yeah I think if you are going for a standard plate they have a stock of them laying around at the DMV. I've been handed one out of a drawer in the past. But I'd imagine the custom ones are made at the head office in Blythewood. If you're going for a custom tag the only benefit of doing the tag locally vs doing everything through Blythewood via mail would be getting a temp tag from your local office.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I'd had the car at a friend's house for a little while (trailered it there) and I drove it home last night with a tag on it. The car drives great. The only big issues I'm still facing are parking lot issues- it's a bear to get the shifter into first, and it acts like it wants to slam into reverse. That's pretty much always been the case ever since I got the car moving.
It generally seems to be easier to get the shifter into first and reverse when the engine's off, and the car seems to want to roll a little bit forwards or backwards with the engine on, in gear, with the clutch pedal depressed. This leads me to believe the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
Fifth is hard to find when on the road, and reverse is significantly harder to get into than first, which suggests to me the shifter could still use some adjustment. The shifter reverser bellcranks are both perfectly vertical when the shifter is in neutral, so I'm not inclined to believe it's that far out of whack. Additionally, I didn't seem to have any issues getting the shifter into second from a stop, which suggests to me it's the shifter and *not* the clutch.
I only ever drove the donor a half hour down the road but I definitely don't remember any of the gears being particularly hard to find, or having any issues with the synchros, so I wouldn't assume it's the trans, but who knows. I intentionally ordered enough Redline fluid a while back to do two trans flushes so I may flush it again to see if that changes anything. I've always been tempted by the F23 swap so I may move that up the priority list a little bit.
It generally seems to be easier to get the shifter into first and reverse when the engine's off, and the car seems to want to roll a little bit forwards or backwards with the engine on, in gear, with the clutch pedal depressed. This leads me to believe the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
Fifth is hard to find when on the road, and reverse is significantly harder to get into than first, which suggests to me the shifter could still use some adjustment. The shifter reverser bellcranks are both perfectly vertical when the shifter is in neutral, so I'm not inclined to believe it's that far out of whack. Additionally, I didn't seem to have any issues getting the shifter into second from a stop, which suggests to me it's the shifter and *not* the clutch.
I only ever drove the donor a half hour down the road but I definitely don't remember any of the gears being particularly hard to find, or having any issues with the synchros, so I wouldn't assume it's the trans, but who knows. I intentionally ordered enough Redline fluid a while back to do two trans flushes so I may flush it again to see if that changes anything. I've always been tempted by the F23 swap so I may move that up the priority list a little bit.
Corgithulhu
Well-Known Member
I don't think the OEM shifter mechanisms are the greatest 15 years later. I drove my donor a few miles before taking it home, and reverse was definitely a problem to find. We found a bit of a trick on having to hold the lockout ring a little harder than you normally would to get past the reverse lockout tabs in the shifter ball mechanism.
Maybe try one of these aluminum shifters before switching the entire transmission around? I know that's been on my long term list once I get mine built.
Maybe try one of these aluminum shifters before switching the entire transmission around? I know that's been on my long term list once I get mine built.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
How much travel do you have in the pedal before the clutch engages?
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Yeah I'd been eyeing DF's upgraded shifter but I'm pretty well set on trying it out now. I'd figured if the last round of bleeding magically cleared up my issues that I'd reconsider, but it didn't so here we are.
Maybe half? Not sure. Now that I think about it I'm not sure my bleeding partner was cycling the pedal the way I would have, so I'm not sure it was completely as useful as it could have been. I read Lonny's comments about having to pull the pedal back up and we never had that happen. Maybe the pedal wasn't going all the way down, or all the way back up?
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
The spring should bring it back up i would think. I am trouble shooting the same problem. But mine will eventually fade to no clutch.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
I did see a bit of fluid at the bottom of the bellhousing but it's never dripped- I have watched the pavement for drips very very closely. I want to believe it's just a little spillage from the bleeder. I did clean it up and will monitor the bellhousing more closely now.
As an additional reference point, I'm running ZZP's aluminum flywheel and a South Bend Stage 3 clutch with a brand new LNF slave cylinder.
As an additional reference point, I'm running ZZP's aluminum flywheel and a South Bend Stage 3 clutch with a brand new LNF slave cylinder.
Towerdog
Goblin Guru
Did you measure the airgap between the slave and the clutch fingers? I didn't the first time and I think the slave was over extending so I measured it and found i needed a .25" spacer to get the proper air gap for my aftermarket clutch.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
Sounds the same as what I did. No additional shims were necessary with these parts. All working well after nearing 5k driven.
Just another data point.
Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC
I did a pretty good job bagging and labeling my hardware. The labels are mostly like "dash", or "seatbelts". The actual technical names by their size is still a little foreign to me. I found a good Layover Chart". Kind of like Bolts for Dummies...... Scroll to the bottom for the metric...