Ready to start, but. . .
- Thread starter barichuk
- Start date
I put a charger on the battery and it showed 95%. I let it charge to full. I didn't notice the lights going dim; I will check that. As to engine/transmission ground I would have thought it grounded to the frame. I have not installed a ground cable and would not know where to attach one, either end. I'm curious as to why the engine has turned over a few times, although it didn't start.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
If your frame is painted or powder coated, it has a hard time grounding through the frame. Using a grounding cable ensures that it does have a good ground.
Read my post all about this:
What To Do If The Engine Won't Start The First Time
I've seen a lot of post recently with those have have had trouble starting the engine for the first time. Many of them tend to be the same issues of some form or another over and over. So I thought I would start a thread about what to do if the engine doesn't start the first time and common...
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Stick with it, Barichuk, you'll get it. I went through a ton of electrical troubleshooting with mine and I was ready to give up. The key thing, and I can't stress this enough, is make sure you follow every troubleshooting step offered up by the good people of this forum, especially Lonny.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I believe originally the large black ground cable was bolted to one of the transmission bell housing bolts between the engine and transmission. Otherwise any large bolt on the engine block that is clean and not painted will do.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
I think that’s where mine was and I hooked it up the to sub frame I believe.
you can never have too many grounds. Ever.
Image of original OEM engine ground. (lower front of engine/transmission)
Close up of where it attached to the engine/transmission.
This image shows where it should attach to the frame. (remove the double nuts and use one of the nuts and the washers to attach the ground cable)
Close up of where it attached to the engine/transmission.
This image shows where it should attach to the frame. (remove the double nuts and use one of the nuts and the washers to attach the ground cable)
YES, YES, YES!!! I installed a ground cable and the engine is CRANKING!!! Now I need to troubleshoot why it doesn't start. I know it is getting fuel (don't ask how I know the fuel line is under pressure ;b), but I still have an ENG PWR REDUCED message on the dash, and the brake warning light is on. I still do not get the butterfly moving when I push the throttle pedal. I have not checked for spark on the plugs, I am guessing that is not the problem. Alright, y'all, you've steered me in the right direction so far (with a few minor detours), so what is my next step? Oh, BTW, I found a small rod in the shifter that was misaligned, and when I fixed it the key now goes to an off position it didn't go to before.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Good job man, I know that crank feels good.
If the butterfly is not moving with the throttle, then you still have a data wire issue. You need to check your tan and tan/black twisted pair from front to back. It starts at the ODBII port, goes through the RDP if equipped (2009 SS/TC only), then through the power steering, then to the BCM, andf finally to the ECM. I might have the RPD and power steering in the wrong order. The pair changes to brown and brown/white between the power steering and the BCM. Make sure it has continuity all the way from the ODBII port to the ECM.
Make sure the plugs in your BCM are all pressed together REALLY well.
Make sure all the bolts through the plugs in your engine fuse box are very tight.
Your car absolutely, 100% will not start until you get the data wire issue fixed.
If the butterfly is not moving with the throttle, then you still have a data wire issue. You need to check your tan and tan/black twisted pair from front to back. It starts at the ODBII port, goes through the RDP if equipped (2009 SS/TC only), then through the power steering, then to the BCM, andf finally to the ECM. I might have the RPD and power steering in the wrong order. The pair changes to brown and brown/white between the power steering and the BCM. Make sure it has continuity all the way from the ODBII port to the ECM.
Make sure the plugs in your BCM are all pressed together REALLY well.
Make sure all the bolts through the plugs in your engine fuse box are very tight.
Your car absolutely, 100% will not start until you get the data wire issue fixed.
If you don't have the accelerator pedal plugged in all the way it will show engine power reduced. I just unplugged mine and it showed "ENGINE POWER REDUCED".
I plugged it back in and it still shows engine power reduced and the throttle does not work. It does run though.
I am going to clear the codes and see if it helps.
I plugged it back in and it still shows engine power reduced and the throttle does not work. It does run though.
I am going to clear the codes and see if it helps.
The throttle plug is in and secure. I'm getting continuity from OBD row 2 pin 3 (brown with black stripe) to power steering pin 1, and from OBD row 1 pin 3 (brown) to power steering pin 2. What do I check from power steering to BCM? And then where on the ECM (which I am guessing is the computer on top)?
Attachments
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
I'm not going to be able to tell you the exact pins because all my documentation is for the SS/TC ECM, but if I was you, I would just start by testing end-to-end continuity from the ODBII port to the correct pins on your ECM plug. Alldatadiy or another forum user can probably tell you the right pins on the ECM side. If you don't get continuity there, then start breaking it down and testing in between.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I think the refresh rate on the ECM/BCM is 15 minutes(?) and clears out some codes that are no longer valid on its own.
I got the trans fluid leak located and fixed, so I tried starting. Engine still cranks, but doesn't start. I did notice the butterfly 'fluttered' a little, and I tried to see if the plugs were firing and they weren't, but that could be opI'm still at a loss in tracing a data wire from BCM to ECM. It still feels like two steps forward and a step and a half back, but I do feel progress, however painfully slow.
The above should read 'that could be operator error.'