Recommended Replacement Clutch

BSinvestments

Active Member
Looking into replacing my clutch. It’s not holding the power it’s making after the turbo kit. Driving and rolling into power is fine, but taking off from standstill and making pulls through the gears it’s not holding. I was thinking about doing a light weight fly wheel too. With the car being so light I don’t think it’ll need a very aggressive clutch but I’d hate to put a clutch in it that doesn’t hold the power still. For this reason I’ve come to the pros. I did a quick search but didn’t come up with much. For reference the car makes just under 400hp and a little more then 310 ft lbs of torque
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
ZZP stage 2 clutch has been awesome for me. However I am about 100 Hp less than you. Our torques are close though. Not sure there are a ton of 400 hp goblins running around.

 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The torque rating is what matters for a clutch rating, since it is torque that makes everything turn. If you are making around 300-350 ft lbs of torque, most everyone's stage 2 clutch would be sized correctly. There are some stage 2.5 clutches if you want to have that little extra margin.

I agree with @JBINTX that the ZZP stage 2 clutch - and lightened flywheel - would likely be a great choice. They are well proven and reasonably priced for the performance level. BTW, also consider the TOB spacer, as the clutch plate spacing can sometimes come up a little short. I would recommend contacting ZZP directly and discuss your clutch with them to see what they recommend. :D
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Unsprung hubs are less drivable on the street than a hub with springs. The difference is significant when trying to start off in 1st gear from a stop. The clutch needs to be feathered/slipped until you are moving and into second gear.

Did you let him know this is a 1600 lb car and not a 3200 Cobalt?

Personally, I would not install a solid hub clutch set in a Goblin and go with the best sprung hub kit. But it's your choice to make.
 

BSinvestments

Active Member
Unsprung hubs are less drivable on the street than a hub with springs. The difference is significant when trying to start off in 1st gear from a stop. The clutch needs to be feathered/slipped until you are moving and into second gear.

Did you let him know this is a 1600 lb car and not a 3200 Cobalt?

Personally, I would not install a solid hub clutch set in a Goblin and go with the best sprung hub kit. But it's your choice to make.
Yep, you can see the entire email chain attached below. I got no discount code either, LOL
 

Attachments

Ross

Goblin Guru
You are a bit higher HP than what is recommended for a GMPP clutch, but the goblin is also lighter than the Cobalt. I would try the GMPP clutch, just because I know it is streetable, with the same feel as the stock clutch. You can learn to drive with a grabby race clutch, but it is still a bit of a pain on the street, as it is a fine line between stalling the engine, or chirping the tires.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
You are a bit higher HP than what is recommended for a GMPP clutch, but the goblin is also lighter than the Cobalt. I would try the GMPP clutch, just because I know it is streetable, with the same feel as the stock clutch. You can learn to drive with a grabby race clutch, but it is still a bit of a pain on the street, as it is a fine line between stalling the engine, or chirping the tires.
I have ridden with @Ross He NEVER stalls madmax………
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Opinions on Clutch for e85 build I have not dyno the engine but my guess is I am right around or a bit over 300whp based on my mods.

I was thinking of ZZP GMPP and a ZZP Aluminum Flywheel 2.0.


The clutch I installed 3 years ago on the stock build is Exedy GMK1016 and when hot is grabbing almost instant this may be unrelated to the clutch but this clutch may also not be rated for the power I have now.

Rock Auto
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I just had “ZZP GMPP and a ZZP Aluminum Flywheel 2.0” Delivered last week, this will be the first clutch that I’m replacing so I’ll make a video of my attempt, the process seems fairly straightforward?

Anyone have any tips I may not be aware of?

.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Nothing to note except it can be difficult to find a way to secure the flywheel while torquing. Oh, the flywheel only goes on one way. The holes only line up right with one hole configuration.
Be sure to fill the trans fluid while on the ground. If you do it with the rear in the air you’ll overfill it and it’ll throw fluid everywhere.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
When you put the whole thing back together and go "oh no I forgot to replace the pilot bearing!" ... there isn't one lol

ZZP threw a clutch alignment tool in my order when I bought a clutch and flywheel from them. If you don't get one, they make things a lot easier. I think there's an .STL if you have access to a printer.

No particular catches with regards to the clutch or pressure plate on this powertrain, though, aside from the usual catches regarding clutch hydraulics.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
One item to be aware of, the spacing between the pressure plate fingers and the TOB. To much space and the piston in the TOB could leak or even fall out. I would assume since you are buying a matched set this should already be taken care of by ZZP. You are getting a new TOB?
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Yes, comes with new TOB but not alignment tool, I bought that separately.






These may be the most expensive Bolts I have ever purchased.



.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The flywheel bolts on the Ecotec are stretch to torque, so they can't be reused (at least they shouldn't be), so everyone gets to pay double what other platforms pays for these bolts. I'm in the wrong business - should be selling bolts and raking in the big $$$!!!
 

Mahkoi

Well-Known Member
I just had “ZZP GMPP and a ZZP Aluminum Flywheel 2.0” Delivered last week, this will be the first clutch that I’m replacing so I’ll make a video of my attempt, the process seems fairly straightforward?

Anyone have any tips I may not be aware of?

.

Just a heads up on the TOB bolts. They are small torx and have loctite on the threads. The heads of mine stripped out while attempting to remove them. My local GM dealer had them in stock but wanted $15 for each bolt. I found them online and all three shipped for $25 if I remember correctly. Hopefully yours don't strip, if they do I found one of my extractors from this set could be tapped on with a hammer then a little bump from the impact gun popped them out without an issue.

IRWIN Bolt Extractor Set, 5-Piece (394002) https://a.co/d/g2faEpS
 
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