Resetting the Odometer - How To

Keckster

Well-Known Member
As I was waiting on my kit to be delivered I dove into different upgrades I wanted to make along the way. I've seen murmurs of resetting the odometer on the goblin to keep better track of your mileage. Plus who wants their brand new sports car to say it has 100K+ miles... This guide is not intended to be used for anything other than a goblin build and I highly recommend you check your state rules and regulations before attempting. With all that said, let's get started.

Before we get started you will need some external hardware in order to reprogram the EEprom chipset that stores the odometer reading.

-You will need an EEprom CH341a reader/writer like these: EEprom Reader/Writer

-You will also need a test clip to connect to the clip like this: Test Clip


Step 1: The first step obviously is to get your BCM out of the goblin/Cobalt and break that bad boy open! This process is semi destructive when taking the cover off so make sure you are absolutely sure you want to proceed. Once you are sure you are willing to take on this procedure you must proceed to remove all relays, fuses, and connectors from the BCM.

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Step 2: Once all attached devices are removed from the BCM this is where the destructive part comes in... As we can see the BCM has two metal threaded pieces to hold our large Red and Grey BCM connectors in. One side of these threaded pieces is flat while the other is flared. We will be drilling out the flared end until these threaded inserts just fall out easily. I used a 5/16 drill bit and slowly and carefully drilled out the threaded insert. Upon removal I sanded the end of these inserts to remove any burrs. now that our biggest obstacle is removed we can just pry each of the plastic clips on the edges to easily open up our BCM.

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Step3: Locating the EEprom Chipset (Circled in Red). The Chip we are searching for is located slightly to the right of center on the bottom of our BCM.

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Step4: Next thing is to connect to the chip using the test clip. I use a program called ASprogrammer to read and program my chip. Once connected to our chip we must setup our programmer by setting the chipset type (IC>SPI>ST>M95080). Once the chipset is selected click the read icon. You will know your chip was read properly when the second line on the right shows the last 12 numbers of the serial number on your BCM are the same with every pair flipped.

Note: the chipset is very small and hard to get the clip on correctly so it may take a few attempts before you are able to read or write to it... Also make sure to try flipping the clip in case your orientation is incorrect.

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Step 5: Now that we have successfully read our chip we can proceed to update our mileage. Using a program called Tachosoft I was able to choose a mileage to set on our BCM. Once you select your vehicle, enter the desired mileage, and hit calculate Tachosoft will tell you what to change in ASprogrammer. For my example I had to change the positions highlighted in yellow to all zeros to reset the odometer completely as my car is not on the road yet.

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Step 6: Upon changing your values and clicking the program button you can slap your BCM back together and reinstall it in your goblin! The rear red BCM connector should pull against the now lose threaded insert and has no chance of falling out but the grey one could slide out even when threaded in. You can use some glue to hold the insert in just make sure nothing gets inside the BCM housing.

I am not a tech pro but I know my way around most gadgets so if anyone has questions I will answer to the best of my ability.
 

Attachments

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
You didn't modify your reader for 5v? I haven't bothered to do it yet even though I have all the stuff and have been successfully reprogramming EEPROMs at work. I assumed that was necessary.
 

Yustas

Active Member
This chip is ok for 3.3v on reading operation. To be on safe side, 5v for flashing operation is recommended, but not required.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Could you post your experience with them?
I can post mine.

I downloaded and filled out their form, and shipped the BCM off to Colorado. I got notification they received it, and three hours (!) later, I got a return shipment notification. Got it back and it was at 0 miles. Total turn-around time with shipping between Pennsylvania and Colorado was six days, I have zero complaints.
 

Ghostknife

Goblin Guru
I can post mine.

I downloaded and filled out their form, and shipped the BCM off to Colorado. I got notification they received it, and three hours (!) later, I got a return shipment notification. Got it back and it was at 0 miles. Total turn-around time with shipping between Pennsylvania and Colorado was six days, I have zero complaints.
Awesome thanks for the insight. Thinking I might send mine in while waiting for the chassis to show up.
 

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
So, I'm giving this a shot but have run into some trouble around step 4.

Whenever I try to read the chip, I only get zeros. Every bit of data is a 0. I tried installing the CH431A drivers, and the dongle seems to light up and work ok. I selected the M95080 chip.

If I disconnect the clip from the chip entirely, all the zeros turn to "F"s. ALL Fs. So, it seems like it's attaching to chip ok, because if the connection is bad the data changes. If the connection is "good", I get zeros. I also tried flipping the clip around, but that just shuts down the dongle entirely. As of now, I have mine connected exactly as you do in your photos, with the red wire toward the "bottom" of the BCM.

Any idea what's going on here?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I had issues at that same point. I was connecting to the M95080 chip while it is still soldered on the BCM motherboard, thru the CH341A USB board, then to my laptop. I kept getting different data back every time I read the chip. I tried ~20 times, without success. Maybe my laptop doesn't provide enough USB power to the M95080 chip while it is on the BCM motherboard. My best guess would be to unsolder it, and remove any additional load that the motherboard may be providing.
 

Keckster

Well-Known Member
From further research it seems that there may be to much power leaking further into the board powering other components than the chip making it become active rather than just readable. I’ve read somewhere about a 5 volt mod on the ch341a programmer but haven’t tried it to see if that makes a difference. I was able to reset two different BCMs but upon trying to reset a third it acted the way you guys described. Maybe there is a slight difference between years that idk about but the only other way I could find to do this process requires desoldering which I’m to inexperienced to attempt at the moment.
 

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
which I’m to inexperienced to attempt at the moment.
Yup, That's me too.

After watching the video linked above, at the very end it is mentioned that we may have to desolder the chip. I got out the soldering iron to get started, but pretty quickly gave up. That thing is so tiny, even with a good soldering iron like I have, I have almost no hope of getting the chip off. And even if I got it off, I would then have to put it back on. We have a hot air gun at my office specifically for such things, but I'm too inexperienced to risk it.

What if we were to put power to the BCM using the main connector, and then clip onto the chip? If the chip were already powered, is there a chance we could read it?
 

Keckster

Well-Known Member
What if we were to put power to the BCM using the main connector, and then clip onto the chip? If the chip were already powered, is there a chance we could read it?
I do know that the chip would be active and also not able to be programmed if the bcm were on. The problem seems to be power getting to other chips and data is being sent causing interference when reading
 
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