Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

Ross

Goblin Guru
The info and return switches are a wired to a ground signal when the switch is pressed.
The Return wire is pink, the Info wire is dark green with a white stripe.
You can trace it further here.
36620
36621
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
@Ross Thank you for the diagram, I'm not sure what it is telling me though. Where on the BCM or Fuse Box does it end up leading to? I don't understand where the green wire is going after it leaves the button on the panel. Was I supposed to have a ground? Because for the button kit, I just soldered two lines with connectors off the green/white wire. I remember it being bright green, not dark green.

For the diagram, is it saying that the wire to the button kit should go to pin #2 on the gauge panel connector?

First thing I'm going to check is the button itself on the button kit. I should get continuity when I press the button, correct?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
From the wiring diagram, one leg of each switch goes to the cluster and the other goes to ground. The instrument cluster is it's own module/computer that communicates on the data wiring and pulls the info it needs from that data stream. No direct connection to the other modules other than for power and lighting, other than the grounding signal from the ECM and Theft Deterrent to turn on those lights. You can make the DIC change by momentarily grounding the wires from pins 2 & 10.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Ah ok, I think I understand. What's strange about my condition in Return works. When the cluster gives a message I can turn it off by pressing the Return button. Info just doesn't cycle through the menu of items.
I should get continuity between pin 2 and the wire leading into the button panel for Info?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would read the descriptions for the buttons in the diagram to be the menu select button as pin 10 and return button as pin 2, but the descriptions can be hard to decipher.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
After looking at the button diagram chart for installing it, I think you are right.

I may have them mixed up on what I connected on the button panel then....
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
Just looked at some of your car pictures. That looks awesome! Hard to envision right now, but congrats!

I love the "actual" picture in a previous post of your son on one of your drives (Tim Curry)
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
After looking at the button diagram chart for installing it, I think you are right.

I may have them mixed up on what I connected on the button panel then....
They should still both work since they are both just momentary switches that ground the signal.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
@Ross Thank you for the diagram, I'm not sure what it is telling me though. Where on the BCM or Fuse Box does it end up leading to? I don't understand where the green wire is going after it leaves the button on the panel. Was I supposed to have a ground? Because for the button kit, I just soldered two lines with connectors off the green/white wire. I remember it being bright green, not dark green.

For the diagram, is it saying that the wire to the button kit should go to pin #2 on the gauge panel connector?

First thing I'm going to check is the button itself on the button kit. I should get continuity when I press the button, correct?
I wonder if you were following the button panel wiring for the late model LNF cars.
Since your car is an early model LSJ car, your info and return wires are wired differently.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Just looked at some of your car pictures. That looks awesome! Hard to envision right now, but congrats!
I love the "actual" picture in a previous post of your son on one of your drives (Tim Curry)
Thanks, you'll get there. I don't think there was a point in the build were I thought I wasn't going to be able to do the work. Just small tasks and it'll be done before you know it. There were a lot of things I didn't understand, but knew the guys/gals here had most likely seen it before. I'm calling my build done but we all know that story. I want to change this or that but I'm just doing the small things right now. Once I get a better feel of what this thing is, then I'll know what more I want to do.
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Fixed the No 5th/R problem. My main cable had unbolted from the frame allowing enough movement that 5th/Rev weren't accessible. Tightened that back down, made sure all the ball connectors lined up properly and then tightened everything extremely tightly. I love it when issues are easy to fix.... I'm not wild about the stock shifter unit. At some point I'll jump on the upgraded shifter kit. Thinking back, I should have added this from the jump as the whole tunnel cover is different.
Tonight I plan to make the throttle spring mount shown below. I do get a lot of bucking in 1st gear and some in 2nd, so it couldn't hurt to try this out. I have metal so all I need from Advanced is a spring kit.

Things to Work On
  • Info switch does not work (return does). Button is good.
  • Swap tag light (broke the 1st one) - New one on order and will swap when permanent tag arrives.
  • Front trans mount
  • Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit
  • Re-do gear shift steps (missing 5th and reverse)
  • Bleed brakes again, no issue just doing it to make sure all air is out. I'm going to do this a bunch of times when the hood is off.
  • Make throttle pedal spring mount
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
You could always pick up a group buy shifter if you see one pop up for sale. It uses the original tunnel cap and, while people have said that the DF-designed shifter is better, the group buy shifter is a massive, massive upgrade over stock. Those flimsy plastic clamps are just an atrocity.

Source: me, I have had a group buy shifter since SACTX sold a run of them a while back. (Yes, I have since cleaned the tunnel cap under the shifter)

20220401_001843.jpg
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
You could always pick up a group buy shifter if you see one pop up for sale. It uses the original tunnel cap and, while people have said that the DF-designed shifter is better, the group buy shifter is a massive, massive upgrade over stock. Those flimsy plastic clamps are just an atrocity.

Source: me, I have had a group buy shifter since SACTX sold a run of them a while back.
I could do that then just pass it on once I'm ready to do the full shebang. I do have an OTTP solid shifter linkage and found Mayor West's file to make a spacer to fit on the DF rods. I plan to install that on the front/back part. That plastic unit is a poor design. So poor, in fact, that I am carrying a spare set in my Goblin just for when the next one breaks. I assume they fail in Cobalt trim since both OTTP and ZZP sell versions of those links.
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I did make the throttle pedal spring and it helps a lot with the throttle sensitivity in 1st and 2nd gear. If you having the bucking issue in those gears, consider taking an hour to make one of these. Spare metal and $8 in springs made this much more drivable.

Also, been driving a good bit. This thing loves to drink the fuel. Just curious, once I get over the thrill of acceleration (if you ever do) what type of gas mileage does everyone see? Just cruising and driving more spirited if you happen to know it.

Things to Work On
  • Info switch does not work (return does). Button is good.
  • Swap tag light (broke the 1st one) - New one on order and will swap when permanent tag arrives.
  • Front trans mount - emailed DF
  • Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit Nov. 16th
  • Temperature sensor reading -40. Sensor is good
  • Gas smell when turning left
  • Make throttle pedal spring mount
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Also, been driving a good bit. This thing loves to drink the fuel. Just curious, once I get over the thrill of acceleration (if you ever do) what type of gas mileage does everyone see? Just cruising and driving more spirited if you happen to know it.
I'm getting 14 to 16 mpg on E85 depending on how I'm driving.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
20 mpg on 91 octane. Many smiles to the miles. I get down to 18 mpg when I'm really smiling.
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
23-24 mpg pretty consistently, 93 octane with 2.9" SC pulley, 60 lb injectors, fully ZZP remote tuned
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Wow, surprised it's so low with the lower weight of the Goblin. I guess the wind resistance really kills the mpg?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Wind resistant, pushing on the loud pedal too often, shaming the Racer Boi in the other lane who thinks the loud fart can on his Honda/Lexus/Mustang makes it go fast...:p:cool:
 
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