Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

[Robinjo]

Pretty sure mine is a quarter turn type like your good picture.

It definitely seems to seal better. At least the rubber gasket touches the filler neck flange with the new to me unit.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Pretty sure mine is a quarter turn type like your good picture.

Same. I bought a locking cap and it is the 1/4 turn style.

 

[Robinjo]

Just a quick update, not a lot has happened in the last few weeks. Just been driving a lot when the weather allows it. Dealing with small issues that pop up. I chased a ACC Pedal Issue (P2128) and then Throttle Body Issue (P2135). It's now popped up as a P2138. It shows up randomly, it could be twice in 10 minutes or go for days without occurring. When it does occur, I get 'Reduced Power Mode' and I can just clear it via the Torque app that I'm using as a speedometer. I think it's the wiring but just ordered a HP Tuner MPVI2+ to help trouble shoot. I'm $300 in AAC Pedal and TB in, so I should have just done this from the beginning.....
Other than that, just waiting on my splitter to get completed. I'm not in a super rush for it as it's getting colder here and I'll have all winter to work on this. I did fix the radiator drain plug with the unit that was listed previously. While I was under there, I marked the area on the fiberglass hood that I need to trim off to allow the splitter to sit properly. Curious enough, one side of the hood needs trimming by about 1/2" but the other side does not.

Things to Work On

• Front trans mount - emailed DF, need to retry installing it with everything loose
• Trim front hood for splitter
• Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit Nov. 16th TBD
• Radiator drain plug dripping (slowly) -Fixed
• Random P2138 Code -
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner

 

[Robinjo]

So, with purchasing HP Tuners I'll need to connect my Wideband to the system. I'm planning to go the route listed below. Is all I really have to do is hook up to the 5v black/red pressure wire from the A/C unit to the 5v wire on the AFR gauge. That and set up the charts in the software. Do I need the Pro Version or anything? This seems really, really easy (almost too easy).

3. Bringing in Output Data
So you've got your sensor in the exhaust, your gauge/controller powered and mounted, and you're looking at some numbers. Now what? You're probably going to want to use this data when tuning in HP Tuners. There are 4 ways to get it there (off the top of my head):

1. Connect your gauge/controller straight to your logging/tuning computer. I've done this once before, it was a pain. It involved a serial -> USB adapter, and I spent more time trying to get that set up and running than it did to create a base tune in HP Tuners.
2. Purchase an HP Tuners Pro interface module with 0-5v inputs on the side. Wire your 0-5v output from the gauge/controller into the interface module. The HP Tuners channel will simply be the MPVI or MPVI2 Pro input.
3. My favorite option, wire the 0-5v output into the AC pressure sensor signal wire. On my setup, the yellow wire coming off the gauge is the 0-5v analog output. When thinning the engine harness, I removed everything for the AC compressor clutch relay, and the 5 volt and low reference for the AC refrigerant pressure sensor. I kept the red/black wire on the engine side of the engine harness and connected the two together. If you don't have an '06 LSJ (like a loser) then your wire color may vary. Then, I take my butt over to HP Tuners, add the AC Pressure Sensor channel and Commanded AFR to my logs, set up Math Parameters for Wideband AFR and AFR error (and gripe about HP Tuners wanting to do AFR in gasoline numbers instead of Lambda).

Original Thread

Wiring Wideband O2 Sensors

This has been a popular topic recently, so I'll attempt to write something up that can be referenced rather than adding information piecemeal in response to various questions. What is an O2 (oxygen) sensor? Spark ignition engines must inject a precise amount of fuel based on how much air enters...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Rauq]

Do I need the Pro Version or anything? This seems really, really easy (almost too easy).

Nope, you don't. It's just that easy!

 

[Sluggonaut]

Yes, it is that easy. Instead of the A/C Pressure Sensor sending a 0-5 volt signal to the ECU, the AFR gauge is now sending a 0-5 volt signal. The trick is calibrating that signal in HP Tuners. Your AFR gauge manual should have a table with the voltage range that's used to create a custom math parameter in HPT. I think there's a video in the link you referenced on how to set it up or there's the one I added below.

I had the same issue and Gtstorey and Rauq helped me through it. I still need to fine-tune my math parameter to make sure what is showing in HP Tuners matches my AFR gauge, but getting it connected and capturing in HPT was pretty simple.

 

[Robinjo]

I hope that all makes more sense once I get into the software. There were a lot of things he was saying that seemed very confusing.

 

[Gtstorey]

It shouldn't be a problem once you have HPT.

You can already download the Scanner and Editing software and open up logs and tunes posted on here or I can pull a stock tune from the repository and send it to you.

 

[Robinjo]

I'm not stock, unfortunately. I have a GM 3.0" pulley and the 42 pound injectors that came with the car.

I'm curious to see what is going on with my vehicle tune. When I decelerate a lot of times the AFR gauge goes to --- meaning it's over 20:1 AFR. Is this normal? This is my first vehicle with a AFR gauge.

 

[Rauq]

Completely normal. That's deceleration fuel cutoff, or DFCO. Most fuel injected cars do that now to save fuel. There are some parameters you can tweak but generally it's with minimum throttle position, above a certain speed, with the engine warmed up, and a certain amount of manifold vacuum.

 

[Robinjo]

I just watched a video and their gauge did it as well, so I feel better about it. I didn't do a Free Air calibration, so I may look into this.

 

[Gtstorey]

The stock file is just something you can start playing with to see what you are getting into. You will want to compare your existing tune to a stock one as a learning experience/check.

 

[Robinjo]

The stock file is just something you can start playing with to see what you are getting into. You will want to compare your existing tune to a stock one as a learning experience/check.

Ok, I think I understand now. This is for me to see what the settings in the tune were at stock, DTC turned on, parameter settings at stock and so forth? I looked around the HP Tuner site for the Tune Repository but couldn't find it. I'd gladly take that stock tune file for a LSJ if you can get it. If it matters, my vehicle was a 2007 LSJ.

I downloaded the HP Tuner Software on my extra PC. When I opened the software it asked me if I wanted Standard or Advanced version. The Advanced was for experienced tuners, so I'm guess I want to be in Standard/Basic?

Another item since watching Goat Rope Garage, should I be setting my AFR gauge to Lambda and just start getting used to that?

 

[Gtstorey]

Tune Repository is accessed through your account. I don't remember if you have to have a device registered to create the account though.

Just open in advanced mode.

I struggle to work in Lambda but I'm getting better at it. The turbo has power enrichment natively in Lamda, so I have to work in it some. The difference between Lamda of 0.88 to 0.89 and AFR of 12.94 to 13.08 just seems harder for me to grasp. It looks like the LSJ uses the inverse of Lamda (1.1 is richer than .9).

Stock Tune for 07 LSJ attached.

 

[Ross]

The HP Tuners repository is here:

My Account – HPTuners

HP Tuners, the home of VCM Suite and the MPVI since 2003. Now enhancing these to new heights with a new feature rich VCM Editor and VCM Scanner, coupled together with the latest generation MPVI2, this is only tuning and diagnostic solution you’ll ever need for your modern OBDII vehicle.

www.hptuners.com

It only has stock tunes. My build log has a list of modified LSJ Tunes. (click on my signature line)

 

[Sluggonaut]

It looks like the LSJ uses the inverse of Lamda (1.1 is richer than .9).

When Al from ZZP was looking over my tune, he said the LSJ uses AFR natively. He said there's nothing wrong with using Lambda if you want, but it adds a margin of error like anything else when using a formula to convert it, which is why he prefers AFR on the LSJ's.

 

[Ross]

The native LSJ doesn't have a wideband O2 sensor... and if it did, it would output a voltage that has to be converted to an AFR or Lambda.
The narrow band O2 sensor is used to indicate when the exhaust is above or below stoichiometric.

So I wonder what Al from ZZP was talking about.

 

[Gtstorey]

I checked the lsj stock tune and it has power enrichment as the inverse of lambda as its native units. That is all I checked though.

 

[Sluggonaut]

So I wonder what Al from ZZP was talking about.

Here is what he said in an email to me when he asked what formula I was using in the log I sent him, which was Lambda = (0.1621 * Volts) + 0.4990 from AEM's documentation for my gauge.

He replied, "Whichever way you end up wiring it, as long as it works, you need to use the AFR conversion, not Lambda. The LSJ pcm uses afr. Having to convert backwards from lambda on my end just adds error and time."

I asked if he would like a new log with my math parameter changed to AFR and he replied,

"Yes I would like a log in AFR.

Purely FYI though; A lot of time, you'll see people on the internet pounding the keyboards screaming "lambda is more accurate" which is absurd. EVERY wideband sensor is a Lambda sensor. It's only measuring the variance from stoich. It has no idea if you have gas, propane, e85, or methanol, or any combination. The gauge is taking that signal and converting it into a 0-5v output, which never changes. All that does change, is the conversion factor you use.

Lambda IS more universal in the sense that it is the same for every fuel, and I do think it's worth becoming familiar with it. However, gas-scale AFR is the exact same information, just in a different language. And if the PCM speaks in gas-scale AFR, it would make sense to use the same language for data collection. It's less mental math for me and less room for error."

I don't have sufficient knowledge to argue one way or the other, but I took him at his word based on the number of LSJ's he's tuned over the years.

 

[Robinjo]

Update to Drago. I removed the reverse lockout on the shifter mechanism. So far I seem to like it. At first finding 5th gear was a little difficult but the more I drove the vehicle around, the easier it is to find. The big plus is not having to use two hand to get into reverse. Also, I got HP Tuners MPVI2+ and got this going. We also got our permanent tag in and my son was very excited. Lastly, I trimmed the hood to prepare for the front splitter installation. It took maybe 10 minutes. What's interesting is one side needed trimming and the other side did not. I guess that should be expected with molded fiberglass components.

Reverse Lockout Removal - Note: super easy to do and can always go back if desired

Disable Shifter Lockout

Is there a way to remove the reverse lockout mechanism on the stock shift unit. It’s annoying and would be really hard to shift into reverse while driving.

dfkitcar.com

Things to do:

• Front trans mount - emailed DF, need to retry installing it with everything loose
• Trim front hood for splitter
• Install front splitter - awaiting completion of unit Nov. 16th TBD
• Random P2138 Code -
• Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
• Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
• MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
• Oil Pan
• 10mm Spacers (front at least)
• Windshield Scratch Removal
• Grill Installation

Initial Tune File: 2006 LSJ GM Stage 2