Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I didn't do most of the Goblin harness rework this way, but I have since swapped to most connections using a bare crimp, that I then fill with solder and finally heat shrink over all of it.

If you can by a connector for $20 you are doing good. I spent $30-$40 on some of mine for the engine harness (after I was finished I could have just about bought a new harness.
I bought it off the eBays, so we'll see. It's only 1 connector (so far) so I'm still ok. I do still have to buy a SS SC fuel pump since I broke the lines coming out. None of those wanted to unclip for me.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 13- 4/01/2022
Hours Worked: 5.0
Total Hours: 48.5
(Wiring Hours: 22.0)
Made it through the rest of wiring video 7, finished video 8 and partly through 9. Only issues are two connectors with no home and a power steering supply that may be an issue.
F6580BCF-2C1E-4653-A1AB-A5C17B57D6F2.jpeg

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. Fuel Pump Connector
2. Blue Wire?
3. EPS Power
4. Two Connectors?
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 14a- 4/02/2022
Hours Worked: 4.0
Total Hours: 52.5
(Wiring Hours: 26.0)
Today I worked on the rest of Wiring Video #9 and did 1/3 of #10. After GTStory and Lonnie gave me information this went smoothly. If you have the pictured plug, KEEP IT. I cut it out and am now regretting it. This goes to the anti-theft system. As far as the rest of the harness it’s starting to come together. If you label every connector as it comes out of the donor you’ll have a tedious but doable job. Link to solution:
4587D9C3-1432-4347-9061-D8A12549E8A7.jpeg7FB96C3F-B52F-4F9E-895B-C911F51D5A75.jpeg
Solution to issue from yesterday. The blue plug comes out. On the black plug, keep the pink and green wires. Tie these into a knot and cut the rest out.
0F935632-0E2B-40EA-B47F-643EAC7F8CB3.jpeg

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. Fuel Pump Connector
2. EPS Power
3. Anti-Theft power and brown wire
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 14b- 4/02/2022
Hours Worked: 3.0
Total Hours: 55.5
(Wiring Hours: 29.0)
Worked on wrapping up Wiring Video #10, almost there. Two small items to verify with the green wires and the red/white wire at the very end of the video. The mess is really starting to look like a harness.

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. Fuel Pump Connector
2. EPS Power
3. Anti-Theft power and brown wire
4. Green Wires?
5. Red Wire from Amp?
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 15- 4/03/2022
Hours Worked: 1.0
Total Hours: 56.5
(Wiring Hours: 30.0)
Today I finished Video #10 off. This included reworking the Anti-theft line to find the green wires I mistakenly connected together when I 'fixed' the AT connector I cut out. I also started gathering ground lugs together to get ready for the final hurrah in Video #11. Today I crossed into the thirty hours mark of wiring. I should be done by now, but small issues that I've made and had to sort out have eaten up a few hours. My test light came in and it is not self powered. So either I can run a wire from the battery to the alligator connector on the test light for source or go buy one that self powered.

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. Fuel Pump Connector
2. EPS Power
3. Anti-Theft power and brown wire
4. Green Wires?
5. Red Wire from Amp?
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 16- 4/04/2022
Hours Worked: 6.0
Total Hours: 61.5
(Wiring Hours: 36.0)
T
oday was grounding day following Wiring Video #11. All completed except find the ground wire in the BCM connector. I opened up the connector back and still cannot find a black wire. Once that is found there is only 30 minutes of taping left. I did make a secondary ground strap inside the harness which connects all ground clusters. This might go to the battery or another grounding point on the frame. Since these kits are very sensitive to grounding issues this seemed like time well spent. The fuel pump connector came i today, so I could fix that issue. Also, thanks to help from GTStory I fixed (for real this time) the Anti-Theft connector. Unpinning the connector was a little trouble to figure out, but once you do it's really easy. I may go back and unpin all the items that have been cut off. If I needed to go back and fix them, this would have to be done anyways as the wires have been cut off. For future builders: all you have to do is pull the colored comb out of the side of the blocks, unclip the pin from inside and then push the old pin out.
I did have to rip apart half the branch to find what was wrong with my OBD-2 connector only having 1 of 2 grounds check for continuity and the Gauge Cluster having 0 of 2. These were connected to each other and the cluster had 1 loose wire just hiding in the bundle. Also, a random red wire was down by the fuse box. This ended up being the ABS power cable that I had left for an extra power source but did not label. So lesson for the future builders, maybe label each ground that you cut with something to easily find them. Different colored tape or something bright to easily find them.
AFDC8E2E-89F6-47D6-98C4-EDE4AAFE0565.jpeg

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. Fuel Pump Connector
2. EPS Power - Wires ran and solution to be found at hook up
3. Anti-Theft power and brown wire
4. Green Wires?
5. Red Wire from Amp?
6. OBD only 1 of 2 ground continuity
7. Cluster 1 of 2 ground continuity
8. Random Red Wire
9. BCM Connector no grounds - Check points 61 and 64
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Day 17- 4/05/2022
Hours Worked: 0.5
Total Hours: 62.0
(Teardown Hours: 18.5)
(Wiring Hours Total: 36.5)
This will be my last entry for some time, my frame is not due until late June and needs to go to powder coating for a week or so
.
Today was the day I have been looking forward to since I started the harness two weeks ago, COMPLETION! All that had to be done was confirm the BCM plug did have a ground with continuity to the ground lug(s) and wrap everything up. I was mostly finished there already. That was definitely tedious and frustrating but I made it through. If I ever build another one of these it's go much, much smoother as I learned a lot. I also broke down the work table and got some amount of space back in the garage. Also, found my issue with the BCM connector, I was checking the wrong plug. A big thank you to everyone that answered question or chatted in a DM. This would not have been possible without all the support. I can't imagine how people completed this without the forum help.
I'm adding a picture of my secondary ground lug point, just in case anyone is curious. I tied this one to all the other grounding lugs to give a secondary point to either the frame or the battery. Most likely the later, unless there is some reason not to?
2022-04-05 Harness End V11.JPG2022-04-05 Harness End V11 Extra Ground.JPG

Wiring Issues to Sort
1. BCM Connector no grounds - Check points 61 and 64
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I have to admit your use of releasing or not releasing current is driving me nuts. The use of flowing fluids as an analogy can be useful for electrics, but remember it's not 100%.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I have to admit your use of releasing or not releasing current is driving me nuts. The use of flowing fluids as an analogy can be useful for electrics, but remember it's not 100%.
I'm by no means proficient in electrical flow, is there a better term to be using. In my mind the flow is trapped in the lines and needs a 'release' point. Like water being trapped in a hose and needing out of the line?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would just refer or it as another grounding point or maybe another path to ground. In your post 27 above, the analogy isn't as bad, but when you used it for one of the excess ignition wires needing a release point like it would build up pressure and then blow off is where it really falls apart. It's no big deal, but again remember the electric/fluid analogy is not 100% and can get you in trouble.
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Not much new going on, frame is on schedule to build and got the email about confirming my frame specification. Other than that, these came in for the build. My son wanted black with red wheels. size 17x8" +43 offset 5x114 bolt pattern.
2022-04-29 Wheel Cover.JPG2022-04-30 Wheel 1.JPG2022-04-30 Wheel 2.JPG
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Just an update: I have an invoice so I'm getting closer and closer to starting the build portions. Once the frame and parts arrive it still needs to be sorted and sent to powder coating. Final color hasn't been decided yet, but the two winning options (for now) are an Illusion Red or Black with Red Flakes scheme for the bars.

A couple items and questions:
1. In the photo, just confirming that I do not need these two items. I do not need the evap. system in Alabama so it's going. What about the vent tube line from the valve cover to the intake arm?
2. What did the other SC guys do about the second O2 sensor plug? Leave it in or cut it out of the harness?
3. Evap. Sensor (maybe it's name) in the photo, did you cut out the plug that goes to it as well?
Evap Sensor_PCV Tube.JPG
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
1. You can ditch the evap parts. For the crankcase vent tube, you can either run that rig over to the intake (DF supplies a barb fitting to connect to the crankcase vent), run your own hose for crankcase vent, or throw a breather filter on the valve cover barb. I went with a breather filter and capped the barb on the intake without issues. I don't think that vent tube rig will get you 100% of the way to the barb on the intake tube, but it's been a while since I looked at it.
2. Remove the second O2 sensor plug from the harness (make sure you're removing it and not the first O2 sensor plug)
3. Remove the evap plug from the harness.

Bonus #4, if you want to do any tuning, leave your AC pressure sensor wire in the engine harness to connect to a wideband O2 sensor, according to Option #3 under the Bringing in Sensor Data section from this thread.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Just an update: I have an invoice so I'm getting closer and closer to starting the build portions. Once the frame and parts arrive it still needs to be sorted and sent to powder coating. Final color hasn't been decided yet, but the two winning options (for now) are an Illusion Red or Black with Red Flakes scheme for the bars.

A couple items and questions:
1. In the photo, just confirming that I do not need these two items. I do not need the evap. system in Alabama so it's going. What about the vent tube line from the valve cover to the intake arm?
2. What did the other SC guys do about the second O2 sensor plug? Leave it in or cut it out of the harness?
3. Evap. Sensor (maybe it's name) in the photo, did you cut out the plug that goes to it as well?
View attachment 33544
Hang onto your evap parts, someone on the forum may need them, due their local emissions rules. Family looks out for each other. :D
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
1. You can ditch the evap parts. For the crankcase vent tube, you can either run that rig over to the intake (DF supplies a barb fitting to connect to the crankcase vent), run your own hose for crankcase vent, or throw a breather filter on the valve cover barb. I went with a breather filter and capped the barb on the intake without issues. I don't think that vent tube rig will get you 100% of the way to the barb on the intake tube, but it's been a while since I looked at it.
2. Remove the second O2 sensor plug from the harness (make sure you're removing it and not the first O2 sensor plug)
3. Remove the evap plug from the harness.

Bonus #4, if you want to do any tuning, leave your AC pressure sensor wire in the engine harness to connect to a wideband O2 sensor, according to Option #3 under the Bringing in Sensor Data section from this thread.
Thanks for the information. For #4, I'm planning to run a wideband, but not through the A/C pressure sensor wire. I'm not planning to do HP Tuners at this point, maybe in the distant future. At that point, I'll look at extending the wires back out. I'm not a tuning guy and and to be honest with two children I do not see myself putting in the hours needed to learn it. Tuning and coding excites me about as much as doing the Goblin harness did (not at all!).

Hang onto your evap parts, someone on the forum may need them, due their local emissions rules. Family looks out for each other. :D
If someone wants them or needs them, cover shipping and they are yours! I will note that the line going to the blower snout is missing it's press clip. It still connects and seals, but has to be removed with a small screwdriver. I'm not a 'keep things around' guy, once this thing is up and running all the extra junks will be leaving. It still bothers me that I have a hood, fenders and doors laying around that won't sell.....
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the information. For #4, I'm planning to run a wideband, but not through the A/C pressure sensor wire. I'm not planning to do HP Tuners at this point, maybe in the distant future. At that point, I'll look at extending the wires back out. I'm not a tuning guy and and to be honest with two children I do not see myself putting in the hours needed to learn it. Tuning and coding excites me about as much as doing the Goblin harness did (not at all!).
I would run the wire now even if there is only a 1% chance you think you might need it. I'm wishing I ran a spare wire or 2 before I was done just in case I ever need a wire for something later. If you are installing a wideband, extend it, even if you don't plan on tuning yourself.
 

Brocker

Member
You have probably seen this but here is my registration procedure for AL.
Alabama Registration Procedure | DF Kit Car Forum
You will need either a notarized bill of sale for the donor or a title in you name or a different motor or transmission, you will need a notarized bill of sale for those items. Basically you need something to prove the ownership of the transmission and motor. The funny thing is I was able to get the car title in my name without a notarized bill of sale.
I just sent my forms in to the Alabama Dept of Revenue. Question: will the inspector require a windshield wiper? Everything else should be good.
 
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