Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

[Lonny]

I would remove the two items on either side.

Use a hammer to hit the face of the plug enough to maybe give the threads a little slack, but not enough to risk cracking the block.
It needs to be a lightweight hammer that looses its energy in the plug rather than a heavy hammer that carries energy into the block.

I would heat the aluminum to at least sizzling and spray it with penetrating oil while it is hot. this will wick some of it into the threads.

Next I would heat it one more time and then clamp some vise grips on the edge of the plug and turn the ratchet and vise grip at the same time.

 

[Ross]

Thanks Lonny. The plug is out. Removing those 2 sensors allowed the heat to do its' job, it unthreaded by hand once it was ready.
That white stuff in the threads likes 200F or 250F. Amazing how hard it is to heat an aluminum block.
Of course my new oil pressure sensor is a different thread... but at least I have a oil hole to work with.

Oil Pressure Sensor Thread Adapter for Chevy LS Engines will change the M12x1.5 plug thread to the 1/8"x27 NPT thread on the sensor.
Well that adapter didn't fit.
I need a M12x1.75 plug thread to the 1/8"x27 NPT thread adapter... $27.35 at Summit, here in 5 days, or $13.37 on Ebay, and here in 6? weeks. Yuck.

 

[ncgoblin]

More of my clutch info and pictures.

Also bought:
ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit Vauxhall/Opel P/N 209-2801
M10 x 1.25 bolts (8)
$41.88

Can you let me know how those bolts work out I am about to pull my engine to replace the rear main seal and currently have the GM torque to yield bolts. I am mostly worried about the ARP bolts catching on the clutch which I know was a concern of other model bolts.

Thanks

 

[Ross]

Edit: Recommend these bolts rather than the ARP ones. Long discussion follows:

The heads on the GM bolts is 4.5mm thick, the ARP bolts (209-2801) are 6.5mm.
The GM bolts are 24.9mm long after the head, the ARP bolts ar 25.3mm..
The threads are the same. ARP bolts came with .5 oz of the Fastener Assembly Lube with is perfect for correct torque readings.
The ARP bolts have an 8mm shoulder before the threads start... better for the flywheel to rest against, my flywheel is 9mm thick at that spot.

Will the ARP bolts fit? Well yes and no. They are very close. Here I compare the ZZP "OEM GM upgrade for the '05-07 Cobalt" which I think is the GMPP clutch, as GM only has 1 upgrade clutch for the LSJ, AFAIK.
The bolt circle is 0.2mm too small if the ARP bolts are rotated point to point, but if they are oriented valley to valley, they miss by 0.2mm.
So even if they hit by 0.2mm, they hit on those 8 little tabs that poke thru on the clutch center plate, so it would rub that off pretty quickly, as it isn't much metal in those little tabs.

Will the center plate rub on the ARP bolts? The plate rises 4.5mm above the friction material, and the ARP bolts are 5mm below the newly ground flywheel surface (-.020 inches, which is 0.5mm thinner than the stock flywheel... and I could use that extra 0.5mm ). So the ARP bolts don't hit with the brand new clutch friction plates... but the old clutch is 0.7mm thinner on each side, so eventually the wear will allow the ARP bolts to contact the plate, and rub away 0.3mm of metal. Which might make a bit of noise, but will probably not be noticed. (New flywheel wouldn't rub, and I don't know how many times my flywheel has been resurfaced)

The old clutch plate had a different profile. It wouldn't rub on the inner bolt circle, but it would rub on the plate.

Looks like the rear crankshaft seal is the same for the 2.0L, 2.2L, & 2.4L.
I bought the FEL-PRO BS40671 from Rockauto. The GM one is part number 12591866, but I found it under lots of other numbers and names.

 

[ncgoblin]

The heads on the GM bolts is 4.5mm thick, the ARP bolts (209-2801) are 6.5mm.
The GM bolts are 24.9mm long after the head, the ARP bolts ar 25.3mm..
The threads are the same. ARP bolts came with .5 oz of the Fastener Assembly Lube with is perfect for correct torque readings.
The ARP bolts have an 8mm shoulder before the threads start... better for the flywheel to rest against, my flywheel is 9mm thick at that spot.

View attachment 11932

Will the ARP bolts fit? Well yes and no. They are very close. Here I compare the ZZP "OEM GM upgrade for the '05-07 Cobalt" which I think is the GMPP clutch, as GM only has 1 upgrade clutch for the LSJ, AFAIK.
The bolt circle is 0.2mm too small if the ARP bolts are rotated point to point, but if they are oriented valley to valley, they miss by 0.2mm.
So even if they hit by 0.2mm, they hit on those 8 little tabs that poke thru on the clutch center plate, so it would rub that off pretty quickly, as it isn't much metal in those little tabs.
View attachment 11933View attachment 11934

Will the center plate rub on the ARP bolts? The plate rises 4.5mm above the friction material, and the ARP bolts are 5mm below the newly ground flywheel surface (-.020 inches, which is 0.5mm thinner than the stock flywheel... and I could use that extra 0.5mm ). So the ARP bolts don't hit with the brand new clutch friction plates... but the old clutch is 0.7mm thinner on each side, so eventually the wear will allow the ARP bolts to contact the plate, and rub away 0.3mm of metal. Which might make a bit of noise, but will probably not be noticed. (New flywheel wouldn't rub, and I don't know how many times my flywheel has been resurfaced)
View attachment 11935View attachment 11936

The old clutch plate had a different profile. It wouldn't rub on the inner bolt circle, but it would rub on the plate.
View attachment 11937

Looks like the rear crankshaft seal is the same for the 2.0L, 2.2L, & 2.4L.
I bought the FEL-PRO BS40671 from Rockauto. The GM one is part number 12591866, but I found it under lots of other numbers and names.

Thanks for the info very helpful.

 

[ncgoblin]

The heads on the GM bolts is 4.5mm thick, the ARP bolts (209-2801) are 6.5mm.
The GM bolts are 24.9mm long after the head, the ARP bolts ar 25.3mm..
The threads are the same. ARP bolts came with .5 oz of the Fastener Assembly Lube with is perfect for correct torque readings.
The ARP bolts have an 8mm shoulder before the threads start... better for the flywheel to rest against, my flywheel is 9mm thick at that spot.

View attachment 11932

Will the ARP bolts fit? Well yes and no. They are very close. Here I compare the ZZP "OEM GM upgrade for the '05-07 Cobalt" which I think is the GMPP clutch, as GM only has 1 upgrade clutch for the LSJ, AFAIK.
The bolt circle is 0.2mm too small if the ARP bolts are rotated point to point, but if they are oriented valley to valley, they miss by 0.2mm.
So even if they hit by 0.2mm, they hit on those 8 little tabs that poke thru on the clutch center plate, so it would rub that off pretty quickly, as it isn't much metal in those little tabs.
View attachment 11933View attachment 11934

Will the center plate rub on the ARP bolts? The plate rises 4.5mm above the friction material, and the ARP bolts are 5mm below the newly ground flywheel surface (-.020 inches, which is 0.5mm thinner than the stock flywheel... and I could use that extra 0.5mm ). So the ARP bolts don't hit with the brand new clutch friction plates... but the old clutch is 0.7mm thinner on each side, so eventually the wear will allow the ARP bolts to contact the plate, and rub away 0.3mm of metal. Which might make a bit of noise, but will probably not be noticed. (New flywheel wouldn't rub, and I don't know how many times my flywheel has been resurfaced)
View attachment 11935View attachment 11936

The old clutch plate had a different profile. It wouldn't rub on the inner bolt circle, but it would rub on the plate.
View attachment 11937

Looks like the rear crankshaft seal is the same for the 2.0L, 2.2L, & 2.4L.
I bought the FEL-PRO BS40671 from Rockauto. The GM one is part number 12591866, but I found it under lots of other numbers and names.

Hey Ross have you installed your clutch? I am curious what the thickness is I have about 300 miles on mine and its 5.7mm contemplating changing it since I had to replace rear main seal anyways.

 

[Ross]

My new clutch is 8mm thick. The old one is 7.3mm, and tapers to 7mm at the outer edge. I needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder but decided to do the clutch while I am in there, not because it was worn out.

 

[ncgoblin]

My new clutch is 8mm thick. The old one is 7.3mm, and tapers to 7mm at the outer edge. I needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder but decided to do the clutch while I am in there, not because it was worn out.

Thanks Ross I replaced the pressure plate, clutch, and slave last time I looked at the clutch disk again it looks like it has a good amount left I am going to roll with it.

 

[ccannx]

I bought a new timing chain tensioner, which should be an easy replacement,
but I found a half a bolt in my head, that should be holding a timing chain guide.

Drill, (never) easy out, wish me luck. (Update: Don't remove the broken bolt, just buy the updated Dorman part to fix this)
Looks like the chain guide has no wear marks on it, so it either broke right after it was replaced, or the last owner left it this way.
I don't see the other half of the bolt anywhere... but I'll run a magnet in the oil pan.
All this, and a autocross that I want to go to on Saturday...
View attachment 9766

Just got around to checking this and It turns out I have the same old broken bolt. I see in this picture you pulled the cover off did you find the missing bolt head in there ?

I just did about 75 auto-crosses a couple months ago.... Yikes !

 

[Ross]

Just got around to checking this and It turns out I have the same old broken bolt. I see in this picture you pulled the cover off did you find the missing bolt head in there ?

I just did about 75 auto-crosses a couple months ago.... Yikes !

I looked, ran a magnet on a wire thru the bottom of the oil pan, never found the bolt head...
I am planning a engine rebuild next winter, maybe I will find it then. In the interim, fingers crossed.

 

[Ross]

If you happen to rotate your transmission (to paint it) without the clutch slave in place, it will leak transmission fluid all over your floor. I should have plugged the holes with 3 bolts. Guess I will be changing the transmission fluid now.

 

[Ross]

Finally getting around to cleaning & painting the engine. A shorty chrome header will hide the exhaust ports.

Painted the transmission

This side was painted after I replaced the cam chain tensioner and put the Dorman chain guide bolt in.

I still have more to go: AC pump (idler pulley), supercharger, intercooler, etc.

 

[Ross]

The AC pump was done last week.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

If you happen to rotate your transmission (to paint it) without the clutch slave in place, it will leak transmission fluid all over your floor. I should have plugged the holes with 3 bolts. Guess I will be changing the transmission fluid now.
View attachment 13316

its not the bolt holes that leak, if you look at the slave it has an o-ring that seals around the input shaft hole.

 

[Ross]

Chris's (ccannx) oil pan finds have me convinced I better dig the debris out of my oil pan, as I know that I am missing a timing chain guide bolt head.
I found it, and some plastic off that same chain guide, and a curly of chrome plating that came off of some mystery item.

 

[Ross]

Putting the engine back in my Goblin, and I have lost track of where connector #3 goes.
The wire goes to #1 which is the supercharger bypass vacuum hose solenoid thingy,
then #2 which is labeled "Old Evap Solenoid" and then #3, the 8 pin purple connector that goes where?

 

[Rttoys]

There’s a connector off the main harness where that goes.

 

[Rttoys]

.

 

[Ross]

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Thank you.

 

[George]

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Sure like your frame color.
Brad